[gmcvt]

Any of you peeps that get an oil analysis seen any iron numbers that astronomically high?

[thescreensavers]

no beuno. Id half your oil change interval and resample.

Id also call up Joe Gibbs and speak to Lakespeed since you are using their motor oil for some insight, dont forget to mention your mods.

[gmcvt]

Thats exactly what Blackstone wants me to do. And your suggestion to call Lake Speed is a good idea also, I spoke with him about a year ago, super cool guy.

[WhiteMale]

Ultimately what's the outcome here? Chevy isn't going to do anything about your oil analysis and just wait it out til it grenades? But I concur, a repeat test on your next fill and I'd let it be until then.

[gmcvt]

As someone who has worked for a dealership for 20 years, I do not disagree with you said. I am simply curious as to whether anyone else has experienced this. My warranty would most likely be void anyway because of my mods. So this isn't really about what Chevy would or would not do.

[WhiteMale]

I wasn't asking per se YOU but what's some else to do...honest curiosity to what end the analysis really serves. Too I now read your mods and you're not in the warranty bracket

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

I wasn't asking per se YOU but what's some else to do...honest curiosity to what end the analysis really serves. Too I now read your mods and you're not in the warranty bracket

If you do enough analysis to get your motor's "trends" then you can see if there is a sudden uptick in wear material. In theory you could catch an issue before for example it throws out a rod.

You can read through blackstones newsletters to gain some insight. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/info...n/newsletters/


Personally I only use it for fun and/or to see if I could extend my oil intervals based on wear,viscosity, and TBN.

[gmcvt]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

I wasn't asking per se YOU but what's some else to do...honest curiosity to what end the analysis really serves. Too I now read your mods and you're not in the warranty bracket

Indeed...

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by gmcvt

Any of you peeps that get an oil analysis seen any iron numbers that astronomically high?

Not me, but my car is stock. You can see my Blackstone test results here: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9823700


On the bright side...

Lead is zero: so no bearing wear.
Titanium is zero: so no valve wear.

So it seems to me like it's possible your oil went acidic and/or got overheated and started to eat mostly iron, plus aluminum and copper to a lesser extent. Which makes sense for something that goes corrosive. It's going to eat what it touches, which is mostly iron, aluminum, and copper (in the oil coolers?).

Follow the above advice, and increase the oil change frequency. Oh and I'd suggest that you consider swapping out that Driven DI40 0W/40 for something more mainstream that has a nice high TBN to start. Driven's website is surprisingly absent any specs whatsoever. "viscosity typical of a 0w40" is all it says. IMO, race oils are designed to last a race with engines that are expected to be frequently rebuilt. I wouldn't be surprised if the Driven oil TBN is "1" (or "0") straight out of the bottle. But you may want to reach out to them directly to get their input, because your #'s certainly aren't what they're advertising here: https://drivenracingoil.com/c-138934...tion-oils.html

[gmcvt]

Dang, thank you for that analysis. Very insightful. I've already decided to switch to either Mobil1 or Penzoil Platinum and will do so at the recommended mileage. I dont think any overheating happened, this car is driven like a grandpa most all of the time and does more sitting than driving. I do run E85 exclusively and my catch can is always full of a homologation of something between what appears to be milky oil and possibly some corn.

Originally Posted by Gunkk

Not me, but my car is stock. You can see my Blackstone test results here: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9823700


On the bright side...

Lead is zero: so no bearing wear.
Titanium is zero: so no valve wear.

So it seems to me like it's possible your oil went acidic and/or got overheated and started to eat mostly iron, plus aluminum and copper to a lesser extent. Which makes sense for something that goes corrosive. It's going to eat what it touches, which is mostly iron, aluminum, and copper (in the oil coolers?).


Follow the above advice, and increase the oil change frequency. Oh and I'd suggest that you consider swapping out that Driven DI40 0W/40 for something more mainstream that has a nice high TBN to start. Driven's website is surprisingly absent any specs whatsoever. "viscosity typical of a 0w40" is all it says. IMO, race oils are designed to last a race with engines that are expected to be frequently rebuilt. I wouldn't be surprised if the Driven oil TBN is "1" (or "0") straight out of the bottle. But you may want to reach out to them directly to get their input, because your #'s certainly aren't what they're advertising here: https://drivenracingoil.com/c-138934...tion-oils.html

[Chutzpah]

Originally Posted by gmcvt

Dang, thank you for that analysis. Very insightful. I've already decided to switch to either Mobil1 or Penzoil Platinum and will do so at the recommended mileage. I dont think any overheating happened, this car is driven like a grandpa most all of the time and does more sitting than driving. I do run E85 exclusively and my catch can is always full of a homologation of something between what appears to be milky oil and possibly some corn.

I recently had higher than average iron on my stang, w/1900 miles and a year on Pennzoil ultra platinum. Just like you, the car does more sitting than driving (outside). However, I do drive the car pretty hard, after warm up . There are occasions when it needs to be moved, but hasn’t been warmed up. In my case, I believe this is the cause of the high iron (condensation). Going with this thought process, I’m not moving the car unless I plan on a 20 minute ride.

[gmcvt]

Hmm, that is interesting. When I drive mine, its gonna be for at least 20 minutes, it just doesn't see much in the way of RPM's. I was admonished by a couple of guys on M6G when I had my 5.0 about this grandpa driving disposition of mine.


QUOTE=Chutzpah;10955979]I recently had higher than average iron on my stang, w/1900 miles and a year on Pennzoil ultra platinum. Just like you, the car does more sitting than driving (outside). However, I do drive the car pretty hard, after warm up . There are occasions when it needs to be moved, but hasn’t been warmed up. In my case, I believe this is the cause of the high iron (condensation). Going with this thought process, I’m not moving the car unless I plan on a 20 minute ride.[/QUOTE]

[cellsafemode]

the oil seems to be on the higher side of viscosity ... for a car that is seeing mostly cold starts when it is started, wouldn't that also lead to significantly higher engine wear than what a lower viscosity oil would have ? also factoring in the lower temps lately where the op lives and that it basically was still in it's break-in period.

(edit, not suggesting something labeled lower, but a different 0w40 that actually measures lower)

[DaveC113]

Water in oil from not getting it hot enough frequently enough... gotta drive it like you stole it on a frequent basis!