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Old 01-30-2021, 12:42 PM   #15
20Bluezl1

 
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Originally Posted by Alain View Post
You should have specifically asked them about supporting the motor while replacing the mounts when you called.

My mind is going in circles also about this. Dealing with that motor mount during install is one of the reasons I’ve held off doing headers.




Is this how you did it?
Im assuming the Oil pan won’t get crunched while doing this.

I'm sorry I wasn't clear when I called they said that you really don't have to support the motor but if it was him he would support it from the bottom like other member said. Jack and wood from the bottom. It's just to support some of the weight and also if you need to lift it a small amount to remove old mount. I'm going to place an order Monday for the BMR mounts.
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Old 01-30-2021, 04:57 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1 View Post
This is some weird shit how there is inconsistencies with installation. I tried from the top and the bottom and I'm scratching the coating. The driver side I took the steering shaft and nice and smooth.
I did the same thing on 2 cars with 2 different sets of 2" arh headers. Is the Car on a lift? I did put painters tape everywhere I thought the header might touch on the car and on the header to prevent scratches on the car or header. I also pressed back some of the heat shielding on the floorpan and firewall areas.
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Old 01-30-2021, 05:37 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by closs2sx View Post
I did the same thing on 2 cars with 2 different sets of 2" arh headers. Is the Car on a lift? I did put painters tape everywhere I thought the header might touch on the car and on the header to prevent scratches on the car or header. I also pressed back some of the heat shielding on the floorpan and firewall areas.
I'm using a quick jack and going to be honest I spent like 3 hrs from te top and from the bottom and can't get it in. I put blue tape on the headers but with the Swaintech coating since it not smooth where the tape gets scratched its almost impossible to remove tape. So after the driver side I took tape off because I couldn't remove tape from the header.
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Old 01-30-2021, 08:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1 View Post
I'm sorry I wasn't clear when I called they said that you really don't have to support the motor but if it was him he would support it from the bottom like other member said. Jack and wood from the bottom. It's just to support some of the weight and also if you need to lift it a small amount to remove old mount. I'm going to place an order Monday for the BMR mounts.
It’s all good. Thank you for sharing the tip he gave you.

Keep us posted on how it works out. I’ll be following.
Good luck man.
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Old 01-31-2021, 03:26 PM   #19
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Anytime you are removing the mounts the engine has to be supported and lifted a touch or you will not get the mount out. It is not hard at all honestly, put a block of wood on a jack under the oil pan, make sure the wood is a touch longer than the pan is wide to spread some of the weight out. This is how I did mine and the header slipped right in no scratches or anything and didnt have to remove the starter. I did mine on 10" race ramps in my garage.
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Old 01-31-2021, 04:55 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by sickss228 View Post
Anytime you are removing the mounts the engine has to be supported and lifted a touch or you will not get the mount out. It is not hard at all honestly, put a block of wood on a jack under the oil pan, make sure the wood is a touch longer than the pan is wide to spread some of the weight out. This is how I did mine and the header slipped right in no scratches or anything and didnt have to remove the starter. I did mine on 10" race ramps in my garage.

Thank you I will be using your suggestions while installing the BMR mounts.
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Old 01-31-2021, 05:15 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by sickss228 View Post
Anytime you are removing the mounts the engine has to be supported and lifted a touch or you will not get the mount out. It is not hard at all honestly, put a block of wood on a jack under the oil pan, make sure the wood is a touch longer than the pan is wide to spread some of the weight out. This is how I did mine and the header slipped right in no scratches or anything and didnt have to remove the starter. I did mine on 10" race ramps in my garage.
Thank you for the advice.

I thought about supporting the motor on the oil pan with a jack, I was just worried about putting so much stress (the weight of the motor) on the oil pan.

I had a feeling I was overthinking it.
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Old 01-31-2021, 05:35 PM   #22
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Thank you for the advice.

I thought about supporting the motor on the oil pan with a jack, I was just worried about putting so much stress (the weight of the motor) on the oil pan.

I had a feeling I was overthinking it.
You will be ok as long as you use a piece of wood. I've lifted 15 liter cat engines with aluminum pans that weigh over 4k on a block of wood and a jack with no problems.
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Old 01-31-2021, 05:36 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1 View Post
Thank you I will be using your suggestions while installing the BMR mounts.
No problem. Post up some pics of those mounts when you get them in.
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Old 01-31-2021, 06:04 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by sickss228 View Post
You will be ok as long as you use a piece of wood. I've lifted 15 liter cat engines with aluminum pans that weigh over 4k on a block of wood and a jack with no problems.
Damn, 4K !! I sometimes forget that aluminum can be rather resilient.

I was definitely overthinking this job. hahaha
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Old 02-01-2021, 07:33 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alain View Post
You should have specifically asked them about supporting the motor while replacing the mounts when you called.

My mind is going in circles also about this. Dealing with that motor mount during install is one of the reasons I’ve held off doing headers.




Is this how you did it?
Im assuming the Oil pan won’t get crunched while doing this.
Alain, if you buy CSP 2" headers (made by Stainless Works) they will slide right in. Won't have to remove the starter or motor mounts. Just unbolt the steering shaft and they both go right in from the bottom super easy. FYI

I made a small write-up from when I installed mine. https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584862
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Old 02-02-2021, 07:31 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by ZLE dude View Post
Alain, if you buy CSP 2" headers (made by Stainless Works) they will slide right in. Won't have to remove the starter or motor mounts. Just unbolt the steering shaft and they both go right in from the bottom super easy. FYI

I made a small write-up from when I installed mine. https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584862
Right on brother!!! Thank you for the link !!!!
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Old 02-02-2021, 08:53 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Alain View Post
Right on brother!!! Thank you for the link !!!!
The issue I had with CSP headers is if you want to install hi flow cat or change out the piping between the headers and the suitcase. There is pretty much no way to make that connection to there headers besides welding and making something.
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Old 02-02-2021, 10:19 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1 View Post
The issue I had with CSP headers is if you want to install hi flow cat or change out the piping between the headers and the suitcase. There is pretty much no way to make that connection to there headers besides welding and making something.
This will be an issue for me. I don’t want to have to take the car somewhere to have something fabricated.

Anybody know if Kooks needs something to be fabricated as well?
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