[SSallday]

Unfortunately, I believe my blower has an issue. There's a rattling noise present on the passenger side of the supercharger. I'm going to bring it to a dealer, but I have to remove the catch can. My guess is that they may want to replace the blower (depending on dealer). From my understanding, the bolts from the supercharger to the head have to be replaced each time you take them out. Is there any way that the dealer would find out about this or the process in general? Also, should I put the stock intake back on?

Thanks

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by SSallday

Unfortunately, I believe my blower has an issue. There's a rattling noise present on the passenger side of the supercharger. I'm going to bring it to a dealer, but I have to remove the catch can. My guess is that they may want to replace the blower (depending on dealer). From my understanding, the bolts from the supercharger to the head have to be replaced each time you take them out. Is there any way that the dealer would find out about this or the process in general? Also, should I put the stock intake back on?

Thanks

I'd put it back to stock if you are going to claim a big warranty issue like that... They'll never be able to tell if you removed the bolts and replaced them...

[hawk02]

Originally Posted by SSallday

Unfortunately, I believe my blower has an issue. There's a rattling noise present on the passenger side of the supercharger. I'm going to bring it to a dealer, but I have to remove the catch can. My guess is that they may want to replace the blower (depending on dealer). From my understanding, the bolts from the supercharger to the head have to be replaced each time you take them out. Is there any way that the dealer would find out about this or the process in general? Also, should I put the stock intake back on?

Thanks

The rattling noise may not be the supercharger but rather one of the pulleys. My car had the supercharger idler Pulled replaced at 7000 miles due to a bad bearing. I would suggest stethoscoping the pulleys to rule out it’s not one of them making the noise.

[Trak-Toy]

These bolts are TTY bolts and a one time use only item. I know, I know... some guys gonna say he used them 100 times over without an issue... problem is, they stretch upon initial use to improve clamping force and once stretched they lose this clamping strength when retightened and will break without warning. Just not worth the hassle and potential broken bolt fiasco that will follow.

Also, if it’s a warranty claim, I would put the stock intake back on also.. make it as close to stock as possible to avoid A denied claim. Not sure how well you know your local dealerships service department manager. It may make a difference.

[Smokin19]

Originally Posted by hawk02

The rattling noise may not be the supercharger but rather one of the pulleys. My car had the supercharger idler Pulled replaced at 7000 miles due to a bad bearing. I would suggest stethoscoping the pulleys to rule out it’s not one of them making the noise.

Agree and a simple check.

[CBM ZL1]

Hopefully the tune has no modifications, thats the first thing they look for

[SSallday]

I bought new bolts and a brake booster line. I want to make sure everything looks factory. Does my brake booster line look like it’s routed correctly in the first picture? Also, there’s a clip on the MAF wire. Where does this clip attach to? Any tips on how to remove the PCV Diverter? I appreciate the help!

[Alain]

1- Brake booster hose looks correct.

2- That clip clips to the OEM air intake. There is a plastic tab between where the Mass Airflow Sensor mounts to the OEM intake and the "box" where the air filter element is.

3- As far as the PCV Diverter, you're gonna have to lift the supercharger (you only need about 3-4 inches of lift). It sounds complicated but it's not, remove the supercharger belt and unscrew the bolts (you're gonna replace them anyway).

Use a small wooden block to support the supercharger while you get in there with some needle nose pliers and unscrew that PCV Diverter. Then put the stock one back on there. I used a big Allen key to unscrew the OEM Diverter.

Good luck with your claim. I hate when cars start making weird noises.

[SSallday]

Originally Posted by Alain

1- Brake booster hose looks correct.

2- That clip clips to the OEM air intake. There is a plastic tab between where the Mass Airflow Sensor mounts to the OEM intake and the "box" where the air filter element is.

3- As far as the PCV Diverter, you're gonna have to lift the supercharger (you only need about 3-4 inches of lift). It sounds complicated but it's not, remove the supercharger belt and unscrew the bolts (you're gonna replace them anyway).

Use a small wooden block to support the supercharger while you get in there with some needle nose pliers and unscrew that PCV Diverter. Then put the stock one back on there. I used a big Allen key to unscrew the OEM Diverter.

Good luck with your claim. I hate when cars start making weird noises.

Thank you!! I can't wait to get all of this warranty work out of the way.

[SSallday]

I just finished everything back to stock. Is there any need to disconnect the battery? I’ve heard of some people getting a check engine light after changing their air intake. I didn’t get a check engine light when I installed my roto-fab the first time

[Alain]

I haven't heard of the need to disconnect the battery when changing air intakes.

With that being said, it doesn't hurt to do so. Leave the battery disconnected over night.

DON'T FORGET TO LEAVE YOUR TRUNK OPEN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[NightfallG17]

Originally Posted by SSallday

Unfortunately, I believe my blower has an issue. There's a rattling noise present on the passenger side of the supercharger. I'm going to bring it to a dealer, but I have to remove the catch can. My guess is that they may want to replace the blower (depending on dealer). From my understanding, the bolts from the supercharger to the head have to be replaced each time you take them out. Is there any way that the dealer would find out about this or the process in general? Also, should I put the stock intake back on?

Thanks

Just got my car back from a warranty repair 2 weeks ago. I initially thought my issue had something to do with the supercharger. Then I could hear a tick/chirp sound coming from the the middle of the passenger side head. Long story short, I had a faulty AFM lifter requiring a cam and lifter swap out. I only have 5700 miles on my 17' ZL1 so needless to say a headache.

Good luck with your appointment, hope it's an easy repair

[SSallday]

Originally Posted by NightfallG17

Just got my car back from a warranty repair 2 weeks ago. I initially thought my issue had something to do with the supercharger. Then I could hear a tick/chirp sound coming from the the middle of the passenger side head. Long story short, I had a faulty AFM lifter requiring a cam and lifter swap out. I only have 5700 miles on my 17' ZL1 so needless to say a headache.

Good luck with your appointment, hope it's an easy repair

This is the sound that I’m hearing: https://youtu.be/YBdzsODlbuA
Sounds like plastic rattling. I spoke to a few people and was told that it’s the coupler inside the blower. Unfortunately, a lot of dealers will say the sound is normal even though it’s not. Hopefully, the dealer I bring it to will agree with me

[v8]

Originally Posted by Trak-Toy

These bolts are TTY bolts and a one time use only item. I know, I know... some guys gonna say he used them 100 times over without an issue... problem is, they stretch upon initial use to improve clamping force and once stretched they lose this clamping strength when retightened and will break without warning. Just not worth the hassle and potential broken bolt fiasco that will follow.

Also, if it’s a warranty claim, I would put the stock intake back on also.. make it as close to stock as possible to avoid A denied claim. Not sure how well you know your local dealerships service department manager. It may make a difference.

I don't think the bolts are TTY, the manual does say to replace them, but the torque on them is 89 inch pounds. Normally on TTY bolts there is a torque number and then you turn the bolt a certain number of degrees to stretch it. like 40lbs +80 degrees or something like that.

I agree with you that the OP should put the stock intake back in, and hopefully the car is not tuned.