[ZO6Ted]

I talked with HPR about a week ago and he confirmed all or the above.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by s3rics213

To me when someone says full short block I’m thinking literally a new motor any from what I’ve understood these are robust motors unless hurt prior and that goes for the crank also. Obviously you want to change out other stuff including oil pump and what not. But I wasn’t planing on doing a drop in and that would require pulling everything and rebalancing if I need a new crank though I’m going to possibly go 416. So really looking for info and not just slight half assed just do this which for me is lazy thinking that’s why I’m asking the question and not just buying a motor.

These engines are robust but that doesn't mean they are going to tolerate 1000+whp very long without some serious attention to detail. If I am building a motor to live north of that number it's getting the best components I can purchase. Callie's Magnum Crank, Rods, and Wiseco pistons. Studded mains with upgraded thrust bearing, Arp rod bolts, head studs. New oil pump and I would probably delete the VVT cam sprocket all together.

[s3rics213]

Yea I mean I’m not going to not get the best by any means but I’d rather not buy a who needs motor when they start at 6kish for a short block and still will need to be upgraded from there to reach what I’d want to be around or attempt to be near. Honestly a motor that safe to 12 maybe 13 would be amazing but I probly won’t break it out over 1k anytime soon but I want it to be able to be a stable motor.

If ppl could provide some motor they’d suggest cause I have terrible shops around me to talk with about it. I don’t have a issue with sending the block out to be work but even if I can save the block snd replace everything internal I’ll do that but I could just do sleeves and everything and go 416/388 or something.