[HypeBlueZL1]

Is your car manual or automatic? I don't think I would do it on an automatic. My car is manual and I don't think I would do it to mine either, but I would be more likely.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by HypeBlueZL1

Is your car manual or automatic? I don't think I would do it on an automatic. My car is manual and I don't think I would do it to mine either, but I would be more likely.

Automatic cars have a separate, good sized, cooler that lays horizontally.

[1BAD18SS]

Well an entire weekend of racing on the Track/Street as well as driving all during the day 90+ degree weather with A/C on full blast. Drive thru lines and sitting in the car to eat etc, still no issues engine temp has remained the same. Like I said this was an experiment for my customers and personal knowledge I can put the aux radiators back in at any time lol but some of yals comments are definitely comical.

[95 imp]

Originally Posted by 1BAD18SS

Well an entire weekend of racing on the Track/Street as well as driving all during the day 90+ degree weather with A/C on full blast. Drive thru lines and sitting in the car to eat etc, still no issues engine temp has remained the same. Like I said this was an experiment for my customers and personal knowledge I can put the aux radiators back in at any time lol but some of yals comments are definitely comical.

Oh my! I wonder why? SMH....

[Gen5&Beyond]

Great idea! Thanks for sharing.

[Jarek]

Hi All,
So lets try to wrap it up.
As it was mentioned in the other threads SS coupe has:
- 1 main radiator for engine cooling
- 2 aux radiator also for engine cooling
- 1 trans radiator (not sure if is only for auto or if manual have is as well)
- oil cooling plate
- differential cooling (not sure where ducts are connected - to which radiator)
- 1 A/C radiator
Also as I gathered for the vert:
- 2 aux radiators are removed
- differential cooling is also missing
I assume that this is related - aux radiators are there to remove the additional heat from the differential mechanizm when tracking. That's why they are missing from vert along with the diff cooling functionality.
However the test from 1BAD18SS proved that single main radiator is big enough to remove heat from the engine and diff while tracking.
In that case vert should be good enough for light tracking - with the main risk of damaging the differential which does not have the possibility to remove heat as easy as coupe.
Am I right here?

[Mountain]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I think it does actually...I was just generalizing based on the fact that GM released the LT1 model sans most of the external cooling options.

Maybe? Last I looked at one, I could not see any coolant lines going from the lower radiator hose ("cold-side") to the area of where the oil cooler would be. However, if not there, I wonder how GM blocked off that area on the LT1 block?

As said, the aux radiators, at the sides of the front bumper, are for track conditions, and help a lot towards oil cooling. The main radiator, seems sized appropriately enough, and the front bumper/grille entrance and dam area seem well-designed enough, to support basic engine cooling very well.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by 95 imp

I have a half filled block in my drag car (and well as many others do too). No issues.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo

FF to :43 and he talks about this

My buddy had a BB Nova that ran on alky and he had a little 12x12 radiator out of a VW Sirocco. No issues.

Some drag blocks are solid (no water passages) like this LS version.

https://noonanrace.com/products/ls-e...d-engine-block

So, sorry, can't buy what you're saying.

Alky runs cooler.

A partially or completely filled block is a hard-core drag racing mod. As in, trailered to and from the events for more reasons than cooling. Well beyond the average guy's mostly street/occasional strip build.


Norm

[Norm Peterson]

There is one thing about differential cooling that everybody seems to have missed when trying to compare IRS diff cooling to stick axle cooling.

Stick axles inherently have the advantage of being able to shed diff/fluid heat through the axle tubes (far more surface area to radiate heat out). Air that's more turbulent is much better at removing heat energy than air that's less turbulent or outright stagnant. Separately, stick axle tubes are just more exposed to ambient air than IRS diffs (being tucked up in a cradle).

I used to run thermal transient analysis back when I had that thing called a 'day job'. The principles are the same here.


Norm

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

For street driving and 1/4 mile passes, a single radiator is more then sufficient. You don't even need the diff, oil, and trans coolers. Well I take that back, the trans cooler would still be beneficial if you have a higher stall converter.

ATs have always needed fluid cooling, but with less power and much simpler transmission designs a simple heat exchanger inside the radiator was sufficient for normal driving, at least in 1st/2nd/3rd gen days.

I'm pretty sure that many of the people running high-stall converters on the street back in the day eventually added supplemental AT fluid cooling.


OP is basically running a test here, and hats off to him for doing so.

He'll eventually find out that (a) it works, (b) it works under most reasonably normal driving conditions, or (c) that there are limitations that people need to be made aware of.

Number 3 might be in a better position than I for offering reasons why this additional cooling was not extended to convertibles and LT1s.


Norm

[GroundhogSS]

What temp thermostat is installed in the LT1 motor? I never see temps over 180, even on a hot Texas day. And without the aux radiators.

[JamesNoBrakes]

Da fuk?

[Jarek]

@GroundhogSS
Hi Richard,
In our cases it is the differential mechanism that we should worry about - as it's cooling function is removed along with aux radiators from convertibles.
And I believe diff temp is not monitored on the instrument panel.

[Choda]

I removed the driver side to fit the turbo and cold piping. I will remove the passenger side if I am ever back in there messing around. Swapping to the Vert hoses and radiator would make the change very clean and easy. Also keep in mind there are inner fender liners that have the aux radiator shrouds and ones that dont. All good info to know