[ember1205]

Originally Posted by CoolbreezeNJ

Doesn't matter maintenance mode or other wise. The modules are there to collect data from a bunch of sensors read out a course of action from those sensors via the logic that is programmed into it and output a signal to provide a course of action.

That course of action in this place either seems to be a loss of voltage or a lack of fuel both of which keep the engine running. You also have a code that is linked to the fuel system that is telling you loss of voltage. Could that "logic engine" , (BCM) be broken? Could be but what about all the circuits that provide it with that logic in the first place?? Does the logic even work without the correct voltage in the first place--- probably not.

Few like working with electricity for the most part because you can't see it and feel it. It was the same 40 years ago!!! Real easy to turn wrenches and replace parts. Actually takes some talent and effort to trouble shoot things.

I agree that electrical systems, especially in cars, is daunting and difficult to deal with. There are so many variables and most of the car operates like a "black box" of sorts (you simply don't know what's there and interconnected).

I also agree that modules collecting data from sensors are a key part of it all.

Where my view is different is that a "mechanic" (fully understands the mechanical and physical part of the car) can not properly leverage the information from these various sensors due to not having the correct tools to analyze it, nor can they just "work around" them by applying techniques that work when all of these various sensors and computer-controlled components aren't present.

Attaching a volt meter to the battery and performing certain tests can uncover -SOME- issues, but there are still many more areas where a voltmeter isn't going to be enough. At the very least, a deep understanding of the various IC's and such that make up the charging circuit are necessary, and more likely actual diagnosis tools and software that can read details out of the various sensors are going to be needed.

Even in the case of testing an AGM battery - you can determine that it has failed. But, what caused it? Has the charging circuit been fully analyzed and diagnosed and received a passing grade? Loose ground somewhere in the car? Bad voltage regulator somewhere else? Parasitic draw?

And here's the worst case scenario... Is the failed battery related to an INTERMITTENT problem in the car? Those are quite literally impossible to diagnose.

[m6-lt1]

Not sure if this is right, but it seems like any possible information could help you. I've seen 2 instances of electrical issues on these forums with I think a similar code as you have posted. One of them i think had to do with a slow crank issue. Anyway have your mechanic/dealer tech look at 2 harnesses for damage or moisture issues. The harness above the driver rear wheel and the headlight harnesses. Water can get into those locations and cause issues.

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Looking back on this thread, I'm not sure how your mechanic determined alternator was bad.
As others have pointed out there are systems that can prevent the alternator from doing its job.
At least at the dealer you will end up with some kind of printout that shows the troubleshooting chain and what they found.

he told me he was able to maintain a ground on the car but the alternator wasn't staying stable with its output and kept dropping

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by CoolbreezeNJ

Tech or mechanic doesn't matter your paid to fix the car so fix it and yes things are more complicated which means you have to be more rigorous in your approach. High tech isn't an excuse!!

Doesn't matter maintenance mode or other wise. The modules are there to collect data from a bunch of sensors and via the logic that is programmed into it, output a signal to provide a course of action.

That course of action in this place either seems to be a loss of voltage or a lack of fuel both of which keep the engine running. You also have a code that is linked to the fuel system that is telling you loss of voltage. Could that "logic engine" , (BCM) be broken? Could be but what about all the circuits that provide it with those inputs ?? Does the logic even work without the correct voltage --- probably not.

Few like working with electricity for the most part because you can't see it and feel it. It was the same 40 years ago!!! Real easy to turn wrenches and replace parts. Actually takes some talent and effort to trouble shoot things.

Put a known good battery in it. Clear all the codes. If the engine cranks but doesn't start it is either not getting spark or fuel. Spark is easy to check. Do the codes come back?? If it wasn't getting any fuel I suspect it would but I bet it gets fuel, starts and then dies later because the charging system isn't working correctly. That condition was also reported.

This is why i believe its a loose ground for the BCM. The car cranks properly but wont turn over. The 3 codes always come back for the BCM, fuel pump, and something with the breaks. He tried tightening a ground wire in the trunk (not the small fuse box) in one of the boxes on the left side under the mat. The car ran fine to get home but the problem came back. so i think its on the right track of a loose ground but that was the wrong one. also before anyone says battery its a brand new Diehard battery

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by ember1205

I agree that electrical systems, especially in cars, is daunting and difficult to deal with. There are so many variables and most of the car operates like a "black box" of sorts (you simply don't know what's there and interconnected).

I also agree that modules collecting data from sensors are a key part of it all.

Where my view is different is that a "mechanic" (fully understands the mechanical and physical part of the car) can not properly leverage the information from these various sensors due to not having the correct tools to analyze it, nor can they just "work around" them by applying techniques that work when all of these various sensors and computer-controlled components aren't present.

Attaching a volt meter to the battery and performing certain tests can uncover -SOME- issues, but there are still many more areas where a voltmeter isn't going to be enough. At the very least, a deep understanding of the various IC's and such that make up the charging circuit are necessary, and more likely actual diagnosis tools and software that can read details out of the various sensors are going to be needed.

Even in the case of testing an AGM battery - you can determine that it has failed. But, what caused it? Has the charging circuit been fully analyzed and diagnosed and received a passing grade? Loose ground somewhere in the car? Bad voltage regulator somewhere else? Parasitic draw?

And here's the worst case scenario... Is the failed battery related to an INTERMITTENT problem in the car? Those are quite literally impossible to diagnose.

This seemed to be the issue when he was trying to diagnose the issue. he even had to have someone from chevy come to scan the bcm to make sure its working properly and they said the bcm is showing no signs of being corrupted or damaged.

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

Not sure if this is right, but it seems like any possible information could help you. I've seen 2 instances of electrical issues on these forums with I think a similar code as you have posted. One of them i think had to do with a slow crank issue. Anyway have your mechanic/dealer tech look at 2 harnesses for damage or moisture issues. The harness above the driver rear wheel and the headlight harnesses. Water can get into those locations and cause issues.

Definitely not the crank issue. i was lucky enough to have that problem last year and thats caused by heatsoak and it results in a very long slow crank if you try to start the car when you recently drove it (heat in the engine bay). Right now the car is cranking not problem but theres no fuel. Acts like the tank is empty and wont turn over.

[Deputy Dog]

Originally Posted by Ailurus2SS

Definitely not the crank issue. i was lucky enough to have that problem last year and thats caused by heatsoak and it results in a very long slow crank if you try to start the car when you recently drove it (heat in the engine bay). Right now the car is cranking not problem but theres no fuel. Acts like the tank is empty and wont turn over.

This is taking way to long to fix..What they gonna do?

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by Deputy Dog

This is taking way to long to fix..What they gonna do?

Well after my last mechanics ground 'fix', I brought it to the dealer this time. When it comes to wiring I'd rather let them handle it since they have access to all the TSBs and history of issues with other cars. My mechanic will probably spend another week chasing grounds if I brought it back to him. I dropped it off today and they said they will get around to diagnosing it about mid day tomorrow.

[jamala00]

Originally Posted by Ailurus2SS

Well after my last mechanics ground 'fix', I brought it to the dealer this time. When it comes to wiring I'd rather let them handle it since they have access to all the TSBs and history of issues with other cars. My mechanic will probably spend another week chasing grounds if I brought it back to him. I dropped it off today and they said they will get around to diagnosing it about mid day tomorrow.

Ya, I was going to ask previously why you didn't take it to the dealer initially. I get the Indy, I use one for some things as well... but when it comes to issues like this, it just seems the dealers are better equipped.

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by jamala00

Ya, I was going to ask previously why you didn't take it to the dealer initially. I get the Indy, I use one for some things as well... but when it comes to issues like this, it just seems the dealers are better equipped.

Being that it seemed like just an alternator issue I preferred bringing it to my mechanic considering my local dealer has given me the run around in the past. Kind of regret it now but you live and you learn.

[Ailurus2SS]

Chevy got around to my car and another broken battery. Cells broken again. 3 batteries broken in 2 months. Replaced the battery again and theyre gonna test is Monday

[jcsuddre]

I have a 2016 ss and was having a similar problem back in November of 2019 slow starts and eventually one day it wouldn’t turn on and in fact started smoking . The thermostat gauge was replaced as it was ruined . Shortly after the starter and battery were replaced . The slow start came back intermittently a few months later but not bad enough to warrant a dealer trip . This week it has gotten bad and I have several videos it takes like a full 10-15 seconds to start and the rpm gauge doesn’t work and stabilitrack error comes up . I’ve noticed that it is worse after driving it for a while and then turning it off then turning it back on . On a side note I will never ever buy a first year model of a car again . So many issues with this 45k car

[Ailurus2SS]

Originally Posted by jcsuddre

I have a 2016 ss and was having a similar problem back in November of 2019 slow starts and eventually one day it wouldn’t turn on and in fact started smoking . The thermostat gauge was replaced as it was ruined . Shortly after the starter and battery were replaced . The slow start came back intermittently a few months later but not bad enough to warrant a dealer trip . This week it has gotten bad and I have several videos it takes like a full 10-15 seconds to start and the rpm gauge doesn’t work and stabilitrack error comes up . I’ve noticed that it is worse after driving it for a while and then turning it off then turning it back on . On a side note I will never ever buy a first year model of a car again . So many issues with this 45k car

Yea that's from heat soak. Had that issue last year. I would suggest going back to your dealer and see if they will replace the starter again. Once it starts, the starter is already damaged. If you get a new once I would suggest ordering some heat shielding and wrapping it around the starter.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Ailurus2SS

3 batteries broken in 2 months.

You have an unusual string of problems.