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Old 06-05-2020, 09:09 AM   #85
TheRealJA105

 
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It is weird that the LF still corded first on a CCW track
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Old 06-08-2020, 03:21 AM   #86
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mystery solved it was the front toe. I would expect to see the alignment go off a little bit but holy cow the front toe was way off.. I was checking the marked bolts in the rear and camber (front and rear) didn't change much . I hope it won't go off this bad again


Before


and after
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Old 06-08-2020, 07:48 AM   #87
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I’d have to question whether it was ever right to start with, unless you took a serious whack to the front end.
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Old 06-08-2020, 11:12 AM   #88
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Wow, that's way off. Seems pretty equally bad R and L suggesting the initial job was likely crap.
Still a mystery why just L side would produce extra wear even on CCW circuit. That makes no sense.
But, fingers crossed for ya Cem. Cheers!
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Old 06-08-2020, 01:27 PM   #89
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I’d have to question whether it was ever right to start with, unless you took a serious whack to the front end.
AFAIK, it takes some time the bushings and other stuff to settle .. keep in mind I also had sway bars from the beginning so I don't know. He was the one who handled the alignment first time too. I will have him check it again after a couple events to see if it moves again

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Wow, that's way off. Seems pretty equally bad R and L suggesting the initial job was likely crap.
Still a mystery why just L side would produce extra wear even on CCW circuit. That makes no sense.
But, fingers crossed for ya Cem. Cheers!
Thanks!
And yes, who knows maybe front left side moved first and then the right side
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Old 06-10-2020, 12:16 AM   #90
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Power/speed loss could be due to air in your intercooler circuit too with that leak GMG.
You would think it would throw a code though wouldn’t it?

Any idea how to test for an intercooler leak?

My mechanic, not the dealership that screwed up the wheels and tires, pressurized the engine coolant system and checked For other leaks and they said they couldn’t find any leaks, they think it was simply an overflow from the coolant system that ran its way down towards the intercooler, but I’m not quite sure it could’ve ended up on the front of the intercooler.
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Old 06-10-2020, 12:17 AM   #91
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Sorry for being inactive and missing these comments It's been a busy week

And thanks

I only used the Race mode at the very first time I tracked my previous (17) 1LE, I have been driving with all nannies off for a long time and you're right Race mode is still intrusive. I found it's easier to rotate the car with throttle inputs with all nannies off which wasn't the case with Race mode. If you're really smooth though ( unfortunately I am not ), it may not be an issue. Since the car is very communicative at the limit and not really twitchy like the Corvette, it never really scared me actually.

Good decision on the Apex wheels I am very happy with them and SC3R tires of course. I want to try the RRs once again but I wanted to see how much I can shave with these tires first. Once the time comes, I want to try other tires for the 18" setup (like Z214s and R7 315/30/18 SQ setup) ..18" setup definitely feels faster but it didn't have the grip level of the SC3Rs.. part of the reason is because SC3Rs run wider
No worries, I’m in the same boat as you, been too busy to be on this thread for a while, I’m looking forward to seeing how those Toyo RR perform for you.

Obviously because of the screwup by the dealership on my tires and wheels, I really have no idea how PTM race is really supposed to feel, so I’m looking forward to trying it legitimately for real for the first time this Friday
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Old 06-10-2020, 12:22 AM   #92
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I might be wrong but it looks like car begs for more front tire and understeers quite a bit. I would try and see how the 305/325 with good camber feel and maybe use more trail braking to rotate the car at those tight corners. I really wanted to come to the Area 27 and VIMC this year and even signed up for an event then they closed the borders
I’m definitely looking forward to seeing how the 305 and 325 combination works soon, I’m currently at -2.7 camber in the front compared to around -1.7 last year.

Yeah I’m not going to area 27 in July anymore either, however there may be an event there in September we can sign up for, TURN 8 is keeping me posted as to whether they’re going to go ahead with the event or not
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Old 06-10-2020, 07:59 AM   #93
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You would think it would throw a code though wouldn’t it?

Any idea how to test for an intercooler leak?

My mechanic, not the dealership that screwed up the wheels and tires, pressurized the engine coolant system and checked For other leaks and they said they couldn’t find any leaks, they think it was simply an overflow from the coolant system that ran its way down towards the intercooler, but I’m not quite sure it could’ve ended up on the front of the intercooler.
Mine never threw any codes when the intercooler pump cavitated and shut down. It just got too hot and went into reduced power mode, then i would limp back to the pits getting smoked by miatas on the straights.
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Old 06-12-2020, 02:13 PM   #94
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I’m definitely looking forward to seeing how the 305 and 325 combination works soon, I’m currently at -2.7 camber in the front compared to around -1.7 last year.

Yeah I’m not going to area 27 in July anymore either, however there may be an event there in September we can sign up for, TURN 8 is keeping me posted as to whether they’re going to go ahead with the event or not
We are planning to move to San Diego but I will let you know if it's postponed I will definitely miss Area 27 it is an amazing venue
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Old 06-15-2020, 12:41 AM   #95
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No worries, I’m in the same boat as you, been too busy to be on this thread for a while, I’m looking forward to seeing how those Toyo RR perform for you.

Obviously because of the screwup by the dealership on my tires and wheels, I really have no idea how PTM race is really supposed to feel, so I’m looking forward to trying it legitimately for real for the first time this Friday
Well? How did it go GMG?!
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Old 11-12-2021, 08:58 AM   #96
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Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I'm considering trying 295/345-19 Toyo Proxes RR over the 305/325-19 Goodyear 3Rs for NASA Time Trials. Is the verdict that the 3Rs are faster? How quickly do the Toyos come up to temp? I only have a single lap to set a lap time due to a 45-mph outlap, 1st flying lap at 8/10ths, money lap, hit traffic. The 3R's never hit ideal operating temp which comes in at lap 3-4 typically on a 2 mile track. Hoosier A7's are preferred, but will bump me from the top-end of TT2 to the bottom-end of TT1.
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Old 11-12-2021, 11:13 AM   #97
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Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I'm considering trying 295/345-19 Toyo Proxes RR over the 305/325-19 Goodyear 3Rs for NASA Time Trials. Is the verdict that the 3Rs are faster? How quickly do the Toyos come up to temp? I only have a single lap to set a lap time due to a 45-mph outlap, 1st flying lap at 8/10ths, money lap, hit traffic. The 3R's never hit ideal operating temp which comes in at lap 3-4 typically on a 2 mile track. Hoosier A7's are preferred, but will bump me from the top-end of TT2 to the bottom-end of TT1.
From what i recall: RRs are the same very old compound, but stiffer sidewalls. Not really in a G3R category? But there is only one way to find out for sure: spend the $$$ on a set

On a related note, maybe play around with tire pressures a la Nascar crews: *higher* starting PSI for short runs?

Cheers!
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Old 11-12-2021, 12:18 PM   #98
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Thanks. I do start with higher pressures for a 3 lap run.



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From what i recall: RRs are the same very old compound, but stiffer sidewalls. Not really in a G3R category? But there is only one way to find out for sure: spend the $$$ on a set

On a related note, maybe play around with tire pressures a la Nascar crews: *higher* starting PSI for short runs?

Cheers!
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