[GAFUN]

Getting my !LE ready for some light track, autox.


Upgrading brake lines, Speigler $220 vs Goodridge $150. Worth the difference
in price for Speigler ?


Anyone do the small upgrade to Ferrodo DS2500 ? better to go with ST43's?



Add Girodisc Titanium shims even if using stock or DS2500 pads?


Have 2 bottles of Redline RL600 fluid, thinking of using it to flush out the factory fill before finishing the flush with Castrol SRF. I figure its better to
mix some SRF with RL600, than the stock DOT3?


Any issues with the stock fluid staying in the ABS circuit?


Thanks!

[TrackClub]

Based on your questions i assume you are starting the track/autox hobby: congrats!

My answers (hopefullu helpful based on my experience):

1. No need to spend $ upgrading the brake lines as SS 1LE has top tech (new) rayon braided lines which have virtually zero expansion. At least that's my opinion.

2. Stay with stock pads and learn how to trail brake effectively before considering any higher torque pads.
ST43 is very aggressive, puts out tons of heat and will fry your calipers (unless you upgrade pistons etc).
Besides, they will feel like on/off switch and prevent you from learning how to modulate brakes properly in corner entries. NB i use stockers and like them a lot and catch many faster cars on entries. So zero complaints regarding their effectiveness. TI shims are not necessary with stock pads.

3. Dont waste 600 just flush directly with SRF.
Dot3 and dot4 can be mixed with zero issues.
Instead, pay attention not to allow any air into the system. Zero issue not flushing ABS imo (never had to do it in 3 yrs and 60 track days).

Cheers!

[kropscamaro16]

i have a ss so i added the goodridge lines and i have motul 660 brake fluid but alot of people love the srf stuff but it is alot more $$$

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

i have a ss so i added the goodridge lines and i have motul 660 brake fluid but alot of people love the srf stuff but it is alot more $$$

That is very true: SRF is big money. But, it depends on how frequently 660 needs to be bled and whether somebody does it themselves, or pays for it as part of service. SRF needs one fresh fill at start of a season, then only one bleed mid season and that's it. I had gone as many as 14 days between bleeding with zero issues and the fluid was still very clean (unlike some others).
So all in all, not bad at all cost wise per season. Imo.

[kropscamaro16]

yes sir i agree i planned on doing about one track day a month this year had everything flushed and filled in january did one event in jan and one auto x day in feb and another event late feb and then all this shit happen...

[GAFUN]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

That is very true: SRF is big money. But, it depends on how frequently 660 needs to be bled and whether somebody does it themselves, or pays for it as part of service. SRF needs one fresh fill at start of a season, then only one bleed mid season and that's it. I had gone as many as 14 days between bleeding with zero issues and the fluid was still very clean (unlike some others).
So all in all, not bad at all cost wise per season. Imo.

Raced Vettes for many years and used tons of Motul600, bled the fluid from the calipers often and it was dark. If SRF lasts much longer, it is worth it.
Redline RL600 was $17 per 500ml and SRF is $71 for a liter, so about twice as much.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by GAFUN

Raced Vettes for many years and used tons of Motul600, bled the fluid from the calipers often and it was dark. If SRF lasts much longer, it is worth it.
Redline RL600 was $17 per 500ml and SRF is $71 for a liter, so about twice as much.

That's exactly the benefit i see in SRF. Not only the specs are top shelf, but its longevity seems excellent and hence cuts down on frequency of bleeding and hence costs overall. Based on my experience anyway.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by GAFUN

Raced Vettes for many years and used tons of Motul600, bled the fluid from the calipers often and it was dark. If SRF lasts much longer, it is worth it.
Redline RL600 was $17 per 500ml and SRF is $71 for a liter, so about twice as much.

Since you have tons of previous experience I would just go with Raybestos ST47 F / ST45 R combo, SRF fluid , titanium shims and GM brake deflectors specifically designed for SS/1LEs. I would simply ditch the SS brake lines since OEM ones are just great and and in modern cars lines don't expand like older cars.

With the above combo (titanium shims) I was able to drop my caliper temps about 100F. (350F vs 450F) It's very critical since most of the fluids in the market have lower than 450F wet boiling point and when I used Motul 600, I could definitely tell car was suffering some brake fade even with the ST43 (or ST47 pads)

I have documented many of that information in my build thread if interested.

Also, since the caliper temps are in check now, my calipers don't show any discoloration whereas with the previos 1LE and Motul 600 (no shim) setup it happened after the very first day..

One could say the added temp would lower the life expectancy of the pads and rotors since heat doesn't get into the piston side but I'll tell you what, that wasn't the case either ...in fact even after 5 events my rotors look still pretty good and hairline cracks are barely noticeable, with the previous car rotor cracks were visible even after the 2nd day..

I think the reason behind is with enough initial bite and good pedal feel and fluid (SRF), you don't necessarily burnish the rotor by dragging pads way earlier ...brakes feel much confidence inspiring.

Also I only used R comps with this car so not to mention the added stress coming from the more aggressive tires (vs OEM G3s)

This is how they look after 5 events (including 3 ORP events meaning each event is typically like a 1.5 events compared to shorter session format events)

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Based on your questions i assume you are starting the track/autox hobby: congrats!

My answers (hopefullu helpful based on my experience):

1. No need to spend $ upgrading the brake lines as SS 1LE has top tech (new) rayon braided lines which have virtually zero expansion. At least that's my opinion.

2. Stay with stock pads and learn how to trail brake effectively before considering any higher torque pads.
ST43 is very aggressive, puts out tons of heat and will fry your calipers (unless you upgrade pistons etc).
Besides, they will feel like on/off switch and prevent you from learning how to modulate brakes properly in corner entries. NB i use stockers and like them a lot and catch many faster cars on entries. So zero complaints regarding their effectiveness. TI shims are not necessary with stock pads.

3. Dont waste 600 just flush directly with SRF.
Dot3 and dot4 can be mixed with zero issues.
Instead, pay attention not to allow any air into the system. Zero issue not flushing ABS imo (never had to do it in 3 yrs and 60 track days).

Cheers!

I agree with others but not with this. I have been running ST47 with current car (and ST43 with previous car) and never experienced or heard someone experienced this. Also, OEM pads may become very expensive since they don't last 1-2 events from what I can tell Raybestos pads are -arguably- the best race pads for the money out there, couldn't be happier

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by glamcem

I agree with others but not with this. I have been running ST47 with current car (and ST43 with previous car) and never experienced or heard someone experienced this. Also, OEM pads may become very expensive since they don't last 1-2 events from what I can tell Raybestos pads are -arguably- the best race pads for the money out there, couldn't be happier

Hey Cem, i had run ST43 for a few days and i know how much heat they throw and what my rotors looked like.
And the fact i had boiled fluid after about 3 laps every single time (not SRF!).
Shims are mandatory with them and vented pistons will help as well. It is an absolute BS that stock Ferodos will last 1 or 2 days. Ive run my car at 7 different venues over 60 track days and ive averaged 5 hard days with material to spare for at least another day or two.
But i swap mine early as i often run 3 day events and even with 2 i dont want to f up the rotors (been there done it on my previous car). Btw my sessions are 30mins and sometimes 45mins and i dont run cool down laps.

Also, it is much easier to learn how to trail brake on lower vs higher torque pads. And trail braking is crucial for fast laps. Even top shelf pro teams often choose low to mid torque pads because it is easier to modulate them.
This is GM factory team, type of pros btw. Cheers!

Ps Note that the person you have replied to (with tons of racing experience) is **not** the OP asking for advice. Ciao!

[GAFUN]

Thanks for the info info. I will wait on the lines as they aren't available anyway.
Going to flush system with SRF and use the stock pads a time or two, then do
a small upgrade to DS2500 or possible swap to Carbotechs from 1521 for the street to race pads. I used to race autocross and track days more seriously, but now days, I
just wanna have some fun with the car.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by GAFUN

Thanks for the info info. I will wait on the lines as they aren't available anyway.
Going to flush system with SRF and use the stock pads a time or two, then do
a small upgrade to DS2500 or possible swap to Carbotechs from 1521 for the street to race pads. I used to race autocross and track days more seriously, but now days, I
just wanna have some fun with the car.

Not sure what carbotechs you have in mind, but just fyi i had tried XP10 and they felt the same as stockers but didnt last as long. What is 1521?

[GAFUN]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Not sure what carbotechs you have in mind, but just fyi i had tried XP10 and they felt the same as stockers but didnt last as long. What is 1521?

Good to know on the XP10's, Ken at KNS recommended XP12's F&R.


Carbotech 1521 is a nice street pad that is almost dustless, then I can swap
back and forth with the Carbotech race pads without re-bedding or compatibility issues with using different compounds.


Russ

[GAFUN]

Does Raybestos have a low dust street pad that is compatible with its race pads?
Nice to just swap out pads before racing and not worry out compound compatibility.


Russ