[kwav8r]

Originally Posted by Biscuit.fr

I think it’s too much mess
Std Elite configuration, you just have to cut only 1 hose to insert a T,
Here there is too much building and pipe and connexions to save only 1 OEM hose....

Concur. You can buy an OEM line to replace the one you cut if you ever want to go back to stock. The line was $20 if memory serves.

OP, I made the video that was posted above before I knew about the S/C bolts being TTYs. While I had no issues retorqing to 89 inch/lbs, I would suggest using a beam type torque wrench, torque to 45 on the first past and then fully tighten. A beam type won’t run you much and with the torque requirement being so low it just adds another level of safety to the process.

Having said that, I would also get a new bolt kit, call it $90 of insurance against snapping a bolt off in the block which will cost you hundreds to fix (unless you’re good with pulling the S/C completely and sure you’ll be able to get the bolt out). There are at least two guys who post in this forum that have snapped reused S/C TTY bolts.

This is not a super hard install IMHO but, take your time and it’ll come out great.

[Firecaptain]

Not a fan that 45 degree angled barb that needs to be ground down.....

[Biscuit.fr]

Originally Posted by Firecaptain

Not a fan that 45 degree angled barb that needs to be ground down.....

I’ve heard about a new design 90 deg to fix that issue...
Does anyone confirm?

[kwav8r]

Originally Posted by Biscuit.fr

I’ve heard about a new design 90 deg to fix that issue...
Does anyone confirm?

Think they just recessed the nipple further back into the new diverter but, I’m not 100% sure how that would help.

[kwav8r]

Originally Posted by Firecaptain

Not a fan that 45 degree angled barb that needs to be ground down.....

If you have an angle grinder it takes all of 30 seconds to do it. There is still plenty on nipple left to get the hose clamp to tighten down on.

[kwav8r]

Does anyone have the part number for the Brake Booster Hose Assembly you have to cut for the Elite Catch Can install, I had it at one time but i'll be damned if i can find it now.

Thanks in advance

[v8]

Originally Posted by ZX-10R

Thanks, do you have a link? Looking forward to the video

Originally Posted by Biscuit.fr

I think it’s too much mess
Std Elite configuration, you just have to cut only 1 hose to insert a T,
Here there is too much building and pipe and connexions to save only 1 OEM hose....

You don't have to do what I did, the reason I had a more complex line was because I did not want the restrictor under the blower. You are putting the restrictor under the blower, so you don't need it in the line so it's one less thing. The rest is the same, you still have to install a one way valve in your line running from the throttle body. Also this was my first version, like a prototype...

What if there was some type of snap fitting that you plugged onto the side of your throttle body, then snapped your factory line on, and it had an outlet for your catch can? That would be much easier, faster, and cleaner than cutting the hose and installing a T connection. Then you decide what type of line runs from it depending on how you set up your system. Easy and fast.

[v8]

Originally Posted by kwav8r

Does anyone have the part number for the Brake Booster Hose Assembly you have to cut for the Elite Catch Can install, I had it at one time but i'll be damned if i can find it now.

Thanks in advance

Part#'s courtesy of stephen12ZL1

[Stephen12ZL1]

parts above are for an LT4 in a Z06...I am certain the wet sump LT4 lines are different.

[Stephen12ZL1]

I think this:

[v8]

Thanks for the correction.

[kwav8r]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

I think this:

That's the PCV line that runs to the top of the 'clean side' PCV box.

The line I'm referring to comes off the S/C snout and routes down under the filter box. It has a check valve on it.

[ZX-10R]

Originally Posted by Biscuit.fr

You have to remove the SC lid
Clean the oil
You can remove the SC lid plate (a lot of oil trapped) for noise +
The green gasket (I was also concerned) is plastique, in good shape, reusable and will stay on the lid... so don’t worry with this one
The only bolts to be changed are the 10 SC lids
I did it 3 times!!!
Put the CC, removed it stock for my EU homologation (living in France) then put it back again. Just changed those 10 bolts only the last time.
The OEM ones worked fine the first 2 times (just be careful when you torque them)
I think there is a special package on amazon or eBay to get juste the 10th.
(Don’t have the link anymore sorry)
You have a YouTube link
Go to Elite CAtch can install camaro ZL1 ;-)

I like the idea of removing the SC cover plate, how many miles on your car the first time you did this?

[Biscuit.fr]

Originally Posted by ZX-10R

I like the idea of removing the SC cover plate, how many miles on your car the first time you did this?

~ 2000 miles