[v8]

Hey All,
I installed a catch can on my Z06. The ZL1 has the same engine (LT4) I made a video of it if anyone is interested to watch, after watching a few of the LT4 catch can vids, I believe this is the best, but I am biased hahaha. I rigged it up using 4 lines. I was also able to install the can WITHOUT CUTTING any factory hoses, so far I have not heard of anyone doing this so I believe I am the first to do so.

1. Unrestricted line from under the blower to the can (input)
2. Restricted line from the can to the throttle body (output for vacuum)
3. Unrestricted line from the can to air bridge, when engine at heavy engine loads and throttle body does not provide enough (output for vacuum)
4. Last resort blow off, in case of any air pressure build up in crankcase.

My channel is not monetized so I don't get paid for views, and I am not selling anything, you can hook up any can in the fashion I did, you would just have minor connection differences. If I can help out some Z06 owners that great!!!

https://youtu.be/kqpqeyc2DhQ

[Firecaptain]

Aside from the Apex catch can.....what were the p/n's and manufacturer for the pieces parts you had to source?


Thanks

[Stevezx900]

Originally Posted by Firecaptain

Aside from the Apex catch can.....what were the p/n's and manufacturer for the pieces parts you had to source?


Thanks

Yes, would be great if you listed all parts for the install. I would love to install this without cutting anything.

I would to return to stock if necessary.

[PROMETHEUS]

Nice job!

[v8]

Thanks guys, I will look up the part numbers - for the most part I used

1/4" NPT fittings to AN8 - coming out of the can

female AN8 to AN8 (I think they were about 90 degree) on the can

AN8 to 3/8" fuel fitting

Then I attached the lines to the can with plastic OEM fittings, I think they are Ford or VW. They are 9.49mm to 8mmID hose so you can disconnect the hoses from the can very quickly and easily

The restrictor was from elite engineering, it is just a 3/8 diameter fitting with a 1/8" orifice
The diverter under the blower was the fully ported unit from Mighty Mouse
The part on the throttle body was sooo hard to find, took months, and I sourced that out of China, I'm not sure what manufacturer uses it.

I'll do some research and see if I can find in my records part numbers, I'm not even sure if there are actual part numbers. I should have the email from the vendors in China. Its going to take a few days for this, I'll have to update you guys and put what I find in my channel as well for viewers.

Thanks

[Stephen12ZL1]

nice job but what a cluster of connections, tees, specialty gates clamps, etc. etc. If I chose to do this install, I will use rubber lines similar to the supercharger connection. So what if you have to cut a factory plastic line. You can get a new plastic line from GM to replace the cut one if necessary.

[Chris 2018 ZL1 A10]

Very well thought out and executed.

Several questions if I may:

1. Is it ok to reuse bolts that attach SC to heads? I thought those were considered “One-and-Done” type bolts based on other fellas (On here) experience with them breaking.

2. Is it normal to not have to change the gaskets?

3. I’m still a CC skeptic, is it possible GM considers it a good thing for a small amount of oil to pass through the top-end?

Thank you,
Chris

[ssrallyred]

Thanks v8!!

[v8]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

nice job but what a cluster of connections, tees, specialty gates clamps, etc. etc. If I chose to do this install, I will use rubber lines similar to the supercharger connection. So what if you have to cut a factory plastic line. You can get a new plastic line from GM to replace the cut one if necessary.

The parts are actually about the same, or maybe less. I used quick connects on the can, you don't have to, I'm just picky and like it nice, you could just attach rubber right to the can like all the aftermarket stuff usually does if you wanted. You also don't have to use the gates clamps, you could use the regular band clamps, but I think they are ugly. So the only really important connections is the one from the throttle body, and the one T in the air bridge. You say you will use "rubber lines similar to the supercharger connection", GM only uses plastic lines, there are no rubber lines anymore. So on all my builds I use plastic where I can, its lighter, cheaper, and better.

Its not just cutting, its cutting and drilling. So yes, you could drill in to your air bridge. Not sure what a new one is worth. And you could cut into the vacuum hose going to the throttle body, I called GM and those are $170 here in Canada, not sure what the air bridge is worth, but its got to be more than that $170 hose.

I just didn't want to destroy probably $400 cutting and drilling factory parts, and I could turn my car back to stock very quickly without ordering any parts.

I'm just sharing what I did in the help that others may benefit.

[Alain]

I like the video. I subscribed to your channel, nice job man!! You didn’t ramble on and you didn’t use obnoxious music!!

We definitely need to know where you got that T fitting from as well as that tool you used to attach the hoses to the fittings.

Thanks for taking the time to do this. Looking forward to seeing more.

[v8]

Originally Posted by Chris 2018 ZL1 A10

Very well thought out and executed.

Several questions if I may:

1. Is it ok to reuse bolts that attach SC to heads? I thought those were considered “One-and-Done” type bolts based on other fellas (On here) experience with them breaking.

2. Is it normal to not have to change the gaskets?

3. I’m still a CC skeptic, is it possible GM considers it a good thing for a small amount of oil to pass through the top-end?

Thank you,
Chris

Hey There,
1. I think the bolts are ok to use, I don't know how many times, but they are not torque to yield. A torque to yield bolt is one that usually goes to a certain tightness, like 10ft/lbs, and then +75 degrees or something like that, now I now they recommend getting new ones, so do at your own risk. The only thing is if you use new bolts, you have to take the blower out more (at least on the corvette) as that last bolt is under the wipers so tucked in there. In the Camaro you might be able to get the rear bolt out. Also here in Canada they are like 30 bucks each so highway robbery. P.S. I think guys that snap them may be over-torquing them, as they are not tight at all. Me, if I did the job again on my car I would re-use the bolts again, unless I felt them "stretch".

2. These gaskets are not "cork" gaskets like the old days, plus this car was like new, under 400miles on it. These rubber style gaskets can usually be reused until they become brittle or hard, more from age and heat cycles. You see this after a few years. On a newer car I would not worry about it.
FYI - GM started using rubber gaskets years ago, I remember the early FWD transmissions (4T40, 4T60, and 4T80) when we would do transmission services we would just wipe the pan gasket off and re-use it and they never came back leaking. So my answer to your question is if the gasket is still soft I would say you can re-use it.

3. I would have to say that no oil coming through is a good thing. GM may allow a certain amount, but that amount is to get them through the warranty period. But no amount is good. On the old port style engines (the last gen ZL1, the LSA motor) the fuel injector was in the intake manifold. So when it fired you had fuel coming down and washing the intake valve and then going into the cylinder. On the new DI engine, you get better performance, but the fuel is sprayed right into the cylinder so any oil vapours just hit the valve and burn on (coking). There was a dyno graph posted somewhere (I think it was on the corvette forum) showing the power loss over time due to coking, and after a carbon cleaning the power came back. On the supercharged engines it is even more important as that oil vapour has to go through your supercharger cooling bricks and it coats them.

In the end it is what makes you happy, I'm not selling anything, and I don't work for any catch can company. I am a licensed GM mechanic and spent years in the trade before getting a university education and moving on. Now I do these videos in my spare time to help educate others so they can make whatever choice suits them best. Me I like to keep my engines as clean as possible.

Any other questions just let me know.

[v8]

Originally Posted by Alain

I like the video. I subscribed to your channel, nice job man!! You didn’t ramble on and you didn’t use obnoxious music!!

We definitely need to know where you got that T fitting from as well as that tool you used to attach the hoses to the fittings.

Thanks for taking the time to do this. Looking forward to seeing more.

Thanks for subbing buddy,

The tool is easy, its a Koul tools ez press. Its great for putting plastic fittings together, I use it on all my jobs, and it gives things an OEM look as that it what the OEM's use. I installed a catch can on my daily driver (Toyota Tacoma) and those fittings are great, as you can disconnect the can in seconds.

See the tool review vid and if you contact them say you saw the vid on Garageking on Youtube and ask if you could get a discount. DISCLAIMER - I don't get any kick back or commission so I can't guarantee what they will do but never hurts to ask.

https://youtu.be/QHrslbANrTo


Here is the Tacoma Vid if you are interested, I know you are not interested in the Toyota, it is just for the purpose of showing just how good these quick connects are. It does a better job than LT4 vid as I really don't promote the quick connects. I mean they have to be good if all the OEM's are using them.

https://youtu.be/QoJ05ujFAvY

[Stephen12ZL1]

no doubt your skills are appreciated but the line in question is not a huge expense. Using instructions from a Mighty Mouse LT4 catch can, you can see the plasic line can be cut and a tee placed. You can easily heat the plastic, insert the tee, and you're done. Also, a fitting is placed in the valve cover. $400 for replacement parts...not hardly.

[Revalot]

Great job V8 !