[Mountain]

Originally Posted by MTSS1LE

Ya so to clarify the parts to convert FE4 to FEA:

Multimatic DSSV's (installed)
Front Stabilizer Bar (PN# 23332961)
Front Ride Links (PN# 84051643 & 84051644)
Rear Stabilizer Bar (PN# 84218218)
Rear Cradle (PN# 84224918)

Thank's a lot to Ryephile's suspension parts mastertlist!

I didn't end up getting the DSSV's from that listing but the one's I got did come with rear springs. What RUQWIKR said about spring perch adjustment changing effective spring rate was my reasoning to start with the lowest setting. Since the ride height and spring preload adjustment is coupled I wanted to try and adjust for the LT1 vs LT4 weight difference by lowering the preload to its lowest. I'll verify this with a corner balance but until then I'll live with the 0.5" rake.

None of the suspension was "jounced" or driven that long and maybe clocking the rear bushings during my at home alignment might've helped so I'll recheck the heights asap. The picture and height measurement was also taken with the fronts at 3.15 degree camber so the rake might have been exaggerated.

Interesting you brought up aero, Mountain. I actually have a decent background in aero/composites and my plan for the car is to make it a platform for some homebuilt aero. A decent splitter and dual element rear is the eventual goal. As it sits, the oem SS 1LE aero isn't too ride height dependent. Without a significant front splitter like the ZLE front fascia it doesn't sustain the stagnation point in front and most of the high pressure bleeds through the underbody. No reasonable amount of rake will solve this. So for stock aero road cars, suspension ride heights should be driven by corner balance and maintaining proper geometry (roll centers).

OK
I'm not an expert on aero, but understand the basics and have looked at some more complex discussion on it. A lot of people just do whatever, so my comment was just to heed warning in case you weren't thinking of it.

BTW, the bolded statement is something I'm starting to think on the 2019+ SS splitter over the 2016-2018 SS. Interesting point you make on the 2016-2018 SS front splitters sensitivity. My view on the 2016-2018 SS front splitter is more "neutralizing" than "adding downforce".

The 2016-2018 splitter protrudes forward 2" and has a triangulated/blended (and higher) front edge. The 2019+ protrudes forward 3.75" and has a much sharper (and lower) front edge.

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by MTSS1LE

It already has FEA springs front and rear. After a drive I think the rear is pretty much settled and the ride heights seem even. There might still be a quarter inch of rake in it but honestly that's within my margin of error for measurement.

After a quick cruise in the canyons I have a few initial impressions: dialing up camber from SS 1LE track to ZLE track settings was a huge improvement in managing the tire during turn in and steady state. Before I'd notice a slight neutral understeer or 4 wheel drift from what I think is the sidewall rolling over and now there's no fuss. The stiffer spring rates seems to help with initial turn in since the outside tire takes that little bit less time loading up in the corner and the same thing in transitions. It seems like the rear still lags during corner entry and when you feed in the power which I've heard is mainly due to play in the sub frame. Hopefully the solid bushings should help with that.

As for the ride, around town and on the freeway it definitely is stiff and requires a bit of strategic placement avoiding sunken pothole covers but honestly it is livable. If you go in knowing what to expect and have past experience with cars on aftermarket suspension you'll be fine. My last car, a 2015 wrx, actually rode worse on its stock suspension even though it was much softer sprung. The main reason being the difference in damping quality. The DSSV deals with compression a lot faster and the ride isn't as bouncy. In the end, it can't compete with the magneride's ability to iron out major bumps. There were countless times during straight aways that I had to back off the throttle because the rear was getting unsettled where previously I'd be able to power on. I also noticed the T/C flashing many times during the drive when previously it would barely engage. It could just be me getting used to it but the fact of the matter is the DSSV has less suspension travel to deal with bumps so the car ends up moving more.

TLDR: DSSV pros are initial turn in the car loads up faster which helps with transitions. Obviously stiffer springs means less load transfer and less travel/camber loss but that's all just theory. The ride isn't terrible but it isn't so compliant that you can go down a bumpy back road with the foot planted like you can with magneride.

Your observations are spot on to what I felt when I went from my M3 with Ohlin coilovers to my SS 1LE. I can take larger bumps and uneven pavement at least 30 MPH faster in the SS 1LE and with a lot less drama.

In the M3, the car would recover lightning fast when upset, BUT the offset to that was any big bumps caused the rear to leave the pavement much quicker (because of the spring rates) and it would cause the traction control system to engage and it would put my head into the roof liner. Had I kept it, I would have played with spring rates, because the dampers were AMAZING, but the spring rates were just too high for street use.

The same can probably be said for the DSSV's in the ZLE, great for composure and VERY fast reacting, but with the ride compromise. The damping is there in the shocks, but it would be AWESOME if Multimatic offered some lower spring rates for street use, then you would have the best of both worlds.

You are also correct that once you get the solid bushings in that rear cradle, that feeling of the rear being a little behind the front will be eliminated completely.

[kropscamaro16]

wait till you try it out on track my new suspension setup is not the best on the streets either but on track its amazing!

[goatjacket]

Originally Posted by MTSS1LE

After a quick cruise in the canyons I have a few initial impressions: dialing up camber from SS 1LE track to ZLE track settings was a huge improvement in managing the tire during turn in and steady state. Before I'd notice a slight neutral understeer or 4 wheel drift from what I think is the sidewall rolling over and now there's no fuss. The stiffer spring rates seems to help with initial turn in since the outside tire takes that little bit less time loading up in the corner and the same thing in transitions. It seems like the rear still lags during corner entry and when you feed in the power which I've heard is mainly due to play in the sub frame. Hopefully the solid bushings should help with that.

As for the ride, around town and on the freeway it definitely is stiff and requires a bit of strategic placement avoiding sunken pothole covers but honestly it is livable. If you go in knowing what to expect and have past experience with cars on aftermarket suspension you'll be fine. My last car, a 2015 wrx, actually rode worse on its stock suspension even though it was much softer sprung. The main reason being the difference in damping quality. The DSSV deals with compression a lot faster and the ride isn't as bouncy. In the end, it can't compete with the magneride's ability to iron out major bumps. There were countless times during straight aways that I had to back off the throttle because the rear was getting unsettled where previously I'd be able to power on. I also noticed the T/C flashing many times during the drive when previously it would barely engage. It could just be me getting used to it but the fact of the matter is the DSSV has less suspension travel to deal with bumps so the car ends up moving more.

TLDR: DSSV pros are initial turn in the car loads up faster which helps with transitions. Obviously stiffer springs means less load transfer and less travel/camber loss but that's all just theory. The ride isn't terrible but it isn't so compliant that you can go down a bumpy back road with the foot planted like you can with magneride.

Been very interested in this swap myself. Even looked at the used set up in Michigan as well. I had a 2015 Z/28 so am familiar with DSSV's, but also understand the 1LE setup is more stiff than the Z/28's. How was the install? Fairly straight forward if you've done suspension work before? I also understand this is a totally subjective question: do you feel the setup is worth it? I know i'm looking at $3k minimum for the upgrade parts and I'm really on fence if the upgrade is better on my 18 ZL1 or if i should continue my search for a new ZLE.
Thanks!

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by goatjacket

Been very interested in this swap myself. Even looked at the used set up in Michigan as well. I had a 2015 Z/28 so am familiar with DSSV's, but also understand the 1LE setup is more stiff than the Z/28's. How was the install? Fairly straight forward if you've done suspension work before? I also understand this is a totally subjective question: do you feel the setup is worth it? I know i'm looking at $3k minimum for the upgrade parts and I'm really on fence if the upgrade is better on my 18 ZL1 or if i should continue my search for a new ZLE.
Thanks!

From what I have read by those who have done it, it really isn't worth the cost. One guy here did it and has track times before and after and his times were just about identical.

Others have said that it really takes a dual personality car that is very capable and turns it into a 1 trick pony. You lose all the compliance for street manners and turn it into something that only feels great on the track.

You no doubt will get a more crisp "feel" but at the expense of ride quality. If it is a weekend track car and "feel" is important to you, then it might be worth it, but otherwise as a daily driver, not so much.

I probably sound like a broken record to some, because I say this all the time, but I truly believe it... the best upgrade you can do to a ZL1 or SS 1LE is the solid rear cradle bushings. You do that one upgrade and you get the biggest bank for your buck in increased handling feel, but you do it without the ride quality penalty of going to a dedicated track suspension (DSSV).

If you really want the DSSV suspension, I would go straight to the ZLE, as all calibrations and components are optimized and designed for it.

This is of course just my opinion and my .02

[goatjacket]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

I probably sound like a broken record to some, because I say this all the time, but I truly believe it... the best upgrade you can do to a ZL1 or SS 1LE is the solid rear cradle bushings. You do that one upgrade and you get the biggest bank for your buck in increased handling feel, but you do it without the ride quality penalty of going to a dedicated track suspension (DSSV).

If you really want the DSSV suspension, I would go straight to the ZLE, as all calibrations and components are optimized and designed for it.

This is of course just my opinion and my .02

I've tracked many of your posts on the suspension upgrades and feel the solid bushings are worth the upgrade for sure. Unfortunately I can never find a set in stock anywhere. I have the cradle lock out kit bought, but haven't installed yet. Maybe hoping a set of solid bushings comes around!

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by goatjacket

I've tracked many of your posts on the suspension upgrades and feel the solid bushings are worth the upgrade for sure. Unfortunately I can never find a set in stock anywhere. I have the cradle lock out kit bought, but haven't installed yet. Maybe hoping a set of solid bushings comes around!

Yeah, I've heard that. I think WildHammer Motorsports had some recently, you may want to try them if they are open for business.

The lockout kit I hear is pretty good as well, and is reversible if at a later time you can get a hold of the solid bushing kit. 80% to 90% less movement is better than none.

[Scargoes]

Originally Posted by goatjacket

I've tracked many of your posts on the suspension upgrades and feel the solid bushings are worth the upgrade for sure. Unfortunately I can never find a set in stock anywhere. I have the cradle lock out kit bought, but haven't installed yet. Maybe hoping a set of solid bushings comes around!

Check here
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/P..._Code=84341929

I ordered them and got them back in February.

[goatjacket]

Originally Posted by Scargoes

Check here
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/P..._Code=84341929

I ordered them and got them back in February.

Thanks, I tried them two weeks ago and stumbling upon you and another member saying you received them and got the email the following day that they were awaiting another shipment. Still have my receipt in the email as they actually allowed me to pay for them before announcing out of stock. Probably one reason I'm holding off on the lock-out kit. So much confusion whether they are indeed making them available, just in small batches, or no longer an option from GM.

Also I checked with Matt at Wildhammer and he couldn't locate one available. But still, I've got two lines cast out there hoping for a bite!

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by goatjacket

Thanks, I tried them two weeks ago and stumbling upon you and another member saying you received them and got the email the following day that they were awaiting another shipment. Still have my receipt in the email as they actually allowed me to pay for them before announcing out of stock. Probably one reason I'm holding off on the lock-out kit. So much confusion whether they are indeed making them available, just in small batches, or no longer an option from GM.

Also I checked with Matt at Wildhammer and he couldn't locate one available. But still, I've got two lines cast out there hoping for a bite!

I hope you find them soon bud.

It's tough right now finding stuff with all the shut-downs. I'm even having a tough time finding 25 & 30lb dumb bells to work out with.

Stay safe man.

[MTSS1LE]

I just sent gmperformancemotor an email asking about the bushings. Let me know if you have any luck goatjacket. I'm also trying to get the front and rear ZLE swaybars but all the gm online parts stores I contacted said due to the GM shutdown they aren't able to place any orders.

I also just ordered some 150 W 1.5 ohm resistors with heat sinks from Mouser for the magride delete. They were 70 dollars for 4 with some connectors so quite a lot cheaper than the delete kits being sold. They'll be coming in this week and I'll put them on asap.

[TheRealJA105]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

From what I have read by those who have done it, it really isn't worth the cost. One guy here did it and has track times before and after and his times were just about identical.

Others have said that it really takes a dual personality car that is very capable and turns it into a 1 trick pony. You lose all the compliance for street manners and turn it into something that only feels great on the track.

You no doubt will get a more crisp "feel" but at the expense of ride quality. If it is a weekend track car and "feel" is important to you, then it might be worth it, but otherwise as a daily driver, not so much.

I probably sound like a broken record to some, because I say this all the time, but I truly believe it... the best upgrade you can do to a ZL1 or SS 1LE is the solid rear cradle bushings. You do that one upgrade and you get the biggest bank for your buck in increased handling feel, but you do it without the ride quality penalty of going to a dedicated track suspension (DSSV).

If you really want the DSSV suspension, I would go straight to the ZLE, as all calibrations and components are optimized and designed for it.

This is of course just my opinion and my .02

Spot on, TravisLambert is the guy with the big thread on the ZL1 FEA switch and no laptime difference. I am also interested if OP will see any difference in laptimes.

[MTSS1LE]

So I have a budget solution to the magneride delete that 100% works. It turns out the same resistors the CTSV guys have been using work for us too. That's what these $400+ "delete" kits are, just a high wattage resistor with an aluminum heatsink worth $15 bucks a corner and the connector shell and pins totaling a buck.

Here's the breakdown:

4 X 150W 1.5 OHM Resistor = 4 X $14 = $56
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...rrencycode=USD

4 X Connector Backshell = 4 X $1.36 = $5.44
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...rrencycode=USD

8 X Connector Pins = 8 X $0.37 = $2.96
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...rrencycode=USD

So far I've driven around long distance for 1hr + and have no issue with the resistors overheating. The suspension warning does not come on anymore and the car doesn't go to limp mode when i pass 85 mph.

[Move_Over]

I i have a set of FE4 shock sims and ride height sims for sale. I used these on my DSSV swap, and they worked perfectly.

This offers a much more complete solution since they address the ride height simulator as well. KW just uses a mag ride delete but could blow your circuit since the ride height sensors are still sending voltage under compression and rebound.

Max (from X-ineering) used to be a programmer for superchips and now supplies most of the Chevy/Cadillac dealers with their shock sims for lifted trucks and aftermarket shock replacements. He definitely knows what he’s doing. I’ve been to his shop personally in central Fl

http://shocksims.com/

I am looking for 325 shipped (usually 425). Let me know if you’re interested