[BlaqWhole]

Originally Posted by bradmo9

Both SS and GT you can slap a blower on and your good to go. Don't know where your getting all this extra shit from.

You misunderstood.

Originally Posted by Lafourche1

I will just point out that a larger portion of the owners of the SS and ZL1 Alpha platform cars will likely keep them stock. There are a number of reasons, including warranty concerns, tracking the car (see first item, too) and the weird idea that some of us think they are fast enough, stock.

In the used market I, for one, would never buy a car that has had any mechanical modifications made to it.

Originally Posted by Martinjlm

Now that you put it that way, I think this applies to me too. CAI and exhaust, I'd probably still buy the car. Boost, cams, intakes, axles? Nope. Hope you enjoyed it, but I'm moving on.

Well that is because Camaros have spoiled us. The performance (and extras) they come with off the shelf is at such a level that most people do not need to upgrade above simple boltons.

Originally Posted by oldman

Let me know when you "slap" it on Obviously I'm talking about people making serious power, want to drag race it. The ZL1 is about the only one mentioned that you can get anywhere close to that performance envelope by upgrading the blower, as the drivetrain is completely over-engineered. The R/T auto does not even have a LSD, and even if it did the diff is marginal from the factory so are the axles, driveshaft, subframe bushings, and even if these are upgraded 265 tires (255 stock) are about as big as you can get back there on the 4500 lbs car, you think your putting that into the 11s on normal rubber? Why do you think the widebody is so popular for the drag crowd?

I don't know why I even bother with post like yours, as you have NOT A CLUE what is needed to DD and then 1/4 mile a car in the real world. Have fun with your F150.

BTW, almost all Muscle cars (especially the ones on this thread) would benefit from a set of 888R or similar compound rubber, before ANY power mod.

He was talking to me. However everything you are saying is 100% correct.

[DaveC113]

One of the reasons buying used sports cars is a gamble, people often return them to stock and deny ever modding them, especially Subarus.

Then you have people like oldman who go thru tires every 5k miles... Do I want your old car? HECK NO!

[oldman]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

One of the reasons buying used sports cars is a gamble, people often return them to stock and deny ever modding them, especially Subarus.

Then you have people like oldman who go thru tires every 5k miles... Do I want your old car? HECK NO!

Are you saying a road race and / or full season autoX cars are less abused? This really happens on Boxters (my bro races one).

I'm completely up and up when I sell my cars, I actually like cars (more than most people). That said, my mods are not "one sided" each part of my build is complete overkill for the power level and 220 wear tires that I run. I anticipate zero failure rate over 100K miles. I bank for the complete failure of one or more expensive parts. Prudence.

Since the C8's release, I designed this engine to run both FI and NA, if I sell my ride it will be a tuned NA car with large cam, for a few bills more than a stock car, sure somebody is taking a risk, but at least my sale is for complete overbuilt parts on a working ride.

Look at it this way, I spent the vast majority of my 60 hr week engineering, professor job on: women, fast cars and booze. The rest I just WASTED.

I know your joking of course. I have to admit that all the mods you make for a ride yield almost no $$$$ gain on resale. for sure I'll sell my FI and fuel separately when the time comes. I may even junkyard swap out (low miles bone stock) LT1 and keep my forged engine on the side and that can sit with the collection of collectible engines I have....

Lastly, it is not my fault that the rear rubber on my car is obviously defective....

[minn19]

Originally Posted by joe944

I put a catback on mine, the only thing I think the car really needs. They are a tad too quiet in stock form.

Biggest reason I went ZL1 was wanting to avoid the mod bug. It's much easier to buy a car like this and drive it in Kommifornia than dealing with a modified car.

Agreed, that's why I went ZLE as well.

Right now I'm ok with the exhaust, but I could see maybe researching a cat back this summer.

[oldman]

Maybe I have to revise my opinion on how cheap a GT is to hotrod with:
PROTECTION PACKAGE:

• MMR Billet Oil Pump Gears and 2000HP DSS halfshafts: Eliminate the two weakest links of the Mustang GT in one shot. Trust us, you need them.
$3999 INSTALLED,

Is that right, $4Gs and "You need them".. ouch. Looks like 700 engine HP is the highest HP they will warranty on the engine(don't know if it coves the above oil pump gears.)

Would seem from this thread: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/thr...g.53509/page-2
That the stock oil pump gears have an issue with superchargers....

[rocket403]

Originally Posted by oldman

The R/T auto does not even have a LSD, and even if it did the diff is marginal from the factory so are the axles, driveshaft, subframe bushings, and even if these are upgraded 265 tires (255 stock) are about as big as you can get back there on the 4500 lbs car, you think your putting that into the 11s on normal rubber? Why do you think the widebody is so popular for the drag crowd?

I running 275 Pzero on my R/T for the 5.7 those are great for my 6sp and I can launch it hard if I was running anything like a 392,Hellcat I would want a much bigger tire.

[Martinjlm]

Originally Posted by oldman

….. I spent the vast majority of my 60 hr week engineering, professor job on: women, fast cars and booze. The rest I just WASTED.....

I am DYING for the opportunity to steal this line

[LESS1]

Originally Posted by Lafourche1

I just want to maybe point out a little something on lap times. They vary. Even a great driver, such as Randy Robst, can easily vary a full second between laps. I know that we've grown accustomed to 1 single lap time being the end all be all (The Stig ingrained that image) for a car. However, times do vary. Some variance can be mechanical (tires, brakes, brake fluid) and some can be the driver (does anyone think that anyone hits the perfect brake point, turn-in, apex and track-out on every single corner, every single time).

For those of us not carrying a FIA Super License, the variance may be larger.

To expand this point further. Need to keep in mind when chasing absolute best lap times, even for the pros there will be mistakes made, and these impact lap time consistency. During a regular race, not a shootout, the guys in the front are not 10/10s for the entire event. If so then yes there would be a large delta between best and worst lap times. Which is attributable to driver mistakes as well as using up your consumables. Speed, consistency and knowing how to conserve your car wins races. The driver/s that can run the fastest with the fewest mistakes while preserving the car are the ones with a chance to win.

The folks posting the hero laps will typically find themselves either off track, in a wreck or more likely causing one, and subsequently mid-pack or worse. I for one have found when dialing it back a little I am able to run very consistent laps times which usually vary by .250 or less from lap to lap, of course, this is without encountering traffic.

[LESS1]

Originally Posted by oldman

Nothing wrong with stock... I look at it this way, stock I could do 4.0 0-60 in the M6. I was called all kinds of things like a cheater, doing it on jack stands et al. I predicted that within a few weeks many guys especially auto guys would do the same. Sure enough, we all know it can be done with an SS. With some blot-ons and a better 220 wear summer tire I could do 3.6 to 4.0. With all my mods and PS4P, guess what on a good launch, I can do a 3.6 to 4.0 on a GOOD launch, which is actually hard to do (get a good launch). So 10K (I do all my own work or that would be FAR higher) and I'll be on my 4th set of tires in 20K miles I can get the car to um do what a few bolt ons and PS4 would do or a bone stock SS auto on with a set of take-off 1LE rims and tires under DD conditions. I will add the a STOCK BASE C8 would absolutely destroy my ride and the secretary would still be sipping her Starbucks double frap.

The ZL1 M6, yeah, I'd keep it stock and enjoy the ride. Just knowing even moded pretty heavily on 220 wear street rubber, a slightly modded SS auto will probably faster to any legal road speed.

If I get a C8, the only thing I'm doing to it is tint and ceramic coat and I'm getting the base, when the warranty is up, I'll source a set of OEM headers ceramic coated and polished (still 100% stock).

So true. I track (road course) my cars and recently sold a lightly modded C5 Z06 track toy because I wanted to go faster. After looking at my options I decided to go with SS 1LE. I wasn't willing to give up the rock-solid reliability of a factory designed and engineered package with a warranty to go a little faster in my Z06... without a warranty. When my 1LE is slow I'll mod... read; buy a ZLE or C8 GS/Z06. Cars today (Chevy that is, Frod not so much) are so well designed and engineered it really is hard to top the factory without tradeoffs. Sure you can add power and maybe small handling improvements but at the cost of reliability and to a lesser degree comfort. My days of wrenching on my junk at the track are over for good. I am all about arrive and drive. Great time to be a car guy for sure.

[ZRacerLE]

Originally Posted by LESS1

So true. I track (road course) my cars and recently sold a lightly modded C5 Z06 track toy because I wanted to go faster. After looking at my options I decided to go with SS 1LE. I wasn't willing to give up the rock-solid reliability of a factory designed and engineered package with a warranty to go a little faster in my Z06... without a warranty. When my 1LE is slow I'll mod... read; buy a ZLE or C8 GS/Z06. Cars today (Chevy that is, Frod not so much) are so well designed and engineered it really is hard to top the factory without tradeoffs. Sure you can add power and maybe small handling improvements but at the cost of reliability and to a lesser degree comfort. My days of wrenching on my junk at the track are over for good. I all about arrive and drive. Great time to be a car guy for sure.

Love this post!

[oldman]

Originally Posted by rocket403

I running 275 Pzero on my R/T for the 5.7 those are great for my 6sp and I can launch it hard if I was running anything like a 392,Hellcat I would want a much bigger tire.

Everything is relative, a stock M6 SS Camaro can do a sub 4.0 0-60 time on stock rubber. The R/T is listed as 5.1 0-60 , not to be mean but a 4 banger Civic R can pretty much do that. Once you start looking at 305 and wider tires and 100 wear compounds 3.5 and 3.6 can be done on street surfaces. My bro had a Charger, I had two Challengers, they are NOT coming close to those times on the street with the rubber listed. We are talking a 4450 lbs car vs a 3650 lbs SS, lets go with your 275 rubber vs 315 can fit on the SS do some math and I get the figures below, the most rubber possible on a R/T does not even come close to the 245mm rubber on the new LT1 model in terms of weight per rubber. Not to mention the Challenger is really NOSE heavy due to the iron engine sitting in front. Let's be frank, the R/T is afraid of the eccoboost, nuff said.
stock
17.45 lbs per mm of tire R/T
13.27 lbs per mm of tire SS
14.69 lbs per mm of tire LT1

aftermarket
16.18 lbs per mm of tire R/T
11.59 lbs per mm of tire SS

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Martinjlm

I am DYING for the opportunity to steal this line

All jokes have to have a kernel of truth to them.

[bradmo9]

Thanks I will enjoy it!! N/a crew cab that runs low mid 12’s 110 plus isn’t too shabby.

I know what exactly it takes to DD a car and run low mid 9’s. A lot of damn money cause shit tears up know matter what you upgrade. I had a 02 Z06 vengeance racing built back in the day 382 twin turbo built 4l60. It was fun when it didn’t tear something up.

I was talking about dd a mustang or ss with just a blower on the street. Doesn’t take much. Go to the track and it’s a totally different story.

Originally Posted by oldman

I don't know why I even bother with post like yours, as you have NOT A CLUE what is needed to DD and then 1/4 mile a car in the real world. Have fun with your F150.

[BlaqWhole]

Originally Posted by bradmo9

Thanks I will enjoy it!! N/a crew cab that runs low mid 12’s 110 plus isn’t too shabby.

I know what exactly it takes to DD a car and run low mid 9’s. A lot of damn money cause shit tears up know matter what you upgrade. I had a 02 Z06 vengeance racing built back in the day 382 twin turbo built 4l60. It was fun when it didn’t tear something up.

I was talking about dd a mustang or ss with just a blower on the street. Doesn’t take much. Go to the track and it’s a totally different story.

You're mistaken. But whatever. Think what you want. Enjoy your 12 sec F150.