[SSDan]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

Have you tried to warranty it? its covered under the 3 year 36,000 and may be more. They used to be covered longer than bumper to bumper.

I did that last year. Got a replacement battery just before the 3 year warranty expired. I had the infamous slow crank start issue. In fact it failed to start right there in the service bay at the dealership.

Now one year later the slow start problem is back.

Do you guys think a higher cranking power battery is the answer to the slow cranking?

[JCunningham]

its not the battery. check for loose battery cables at battery and fuse box. check all grounds too.

[17rsvert]

Originally Posted by SSDan

I did that last year. Got a replacement battery just before the 3 year warranty expired. I had the infamous slow crank start issue. In fact it failed to start right there in the service bay at the dealership.

Now one year later the slow start problem is back.

Do you guys think a higher cranking power battery is the answer to the slow cranking?

How often do drive it and do you go for short drives? The battery will slowly discharge just from sitting, and if you're not running it long enough you may not be topping off the charge. Eventually, a battery that sits without a full charge will degrade on it's own. Check the battery voltage with a volt meter periodically BEFORE YOU START IT after the car has been sitting at least overnight. If it's getting fully recharged, the voltage should read 12.5 or above. If it reads 12.2 or below, it probably isn't being run long enough to fully recharge while driving.

[SSDan]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

its not the battery. check for loose battery cables at battery and fuse box. check all grounds too.

Ok I hear you and that advice works with my logic if i had slow starts every time. I never have starting issues on a cold engine. It happens on a warm start especially if that start comes within 5-10 minutes after a stop.

Sorry OP for the thread jack. I jumped in because I'm frustrated with the slow starts and the potential of the OEM
battery being in the issue. My replacement OEM battery cranked well for a year but now not so much.

[JCunningham]

it was comon and i think there was a TSB on the 16s wit hard start issue. if they replaced the battery for it might be a documented issue. it could still be under warranty.

[Jdelgado92]

Originally Posted by SSDan

Ok I hear you and that advice works with my logic if i had slow starts every time. I never have starting issues on a cold engine. It happens on a warm start especially if that start comes within 5-10 minutes after a stop.

Sorry OP for the thread jack. I jumped in because I'm frustrated with the slow starts and the potential of the OEM
battery being in the issue. My replacement OEM battery cranked well for a year but now not so much.

It’s most likely between your battery and starter. If the battery is okay then the starter is the issue. They get heat soaked from long or hard driving and cause it to hesitate when your try to start it immediately or even 5-10 min. Mine always had this problem but I didn’t think anything of it, I even started a thread about it and people told me it was normal which it isn’t. It started with hesitation to crank up then I started noticing that my rpm gauge would occasionally flicker without affecting the car physically as I’m driving. Even the digital rpm on the HUD would fluctuate. Not too long after, the car cranked extra slowly and when it finally managed to turn on, the rpm gauge was completely dead and my engine light as well as the stabilitrak lights came on and the car sounded and drove extremely rough. I would turn it on and off again with out moving the car from the spot and it would do it again. I had to drive a block, turn it off and then back on and it would go back to normal. It happened at least 3 times. After all the hassle I went through with gm and the dealership (only because I had air suspension hooked up and they blamed that even though I had issues before the bad install) it turned out the battery wasn’t holding charge and had a bad cell and the starter shorted out. Replaced both at my expense and now the car turns on instantly with no hesitation at all. The battery gauge also holds steady right above 14 as I’m driving. Before, it would drop down to around 11-12 and fluctuate even after driving all day.

[indyz]

The battery gauge, while driving, is supposed to vary between ~12.5 and 14-15.......Just the fact that it drops to 12, does not mean there's something wrong.

If I do a bunch of short drives over a few days (less than 10-15 min), my voltage gauge starts to hover at 14-15. To me, this indicates the battery Charge has been depleted by the repeated starts and short drives.

Then I'll do a nice long drive and it will start at 14-15 and then drop down to about ~12.5 eventually. I think this indicates the battery is almost fully charged.

[yourmomshouse]

I need to replace mine in my 2016 SS. Car died 5 times in stop and go at low rpm. gauges started dying at heavy throttle. I'm getting zero juice when the alternator isn't spinning.
Is this the correct one?
https://www.impactbattery.com/norths...m48-l3-h6.html

[GXP08jrf]

Originally Posted by yourmomshouse

I need to replace mine in my 2016 SS. Car died 5 times in stop and go at low rpm. gauges started dying at heavy throttle. I'm getting zero juice when the alternator isn't spinning.
Is this the correct one?
https://www.impactbattery.com/norths...m48-l3-h6.html

Check that the negative cable clamp is making good contact with the battery post. I had a similar occurrence, and the clamp was not making good contact no matter how hard I tightened the cam nut on the clamp. Car would be completely dead, no power no lights, nothing. I ended up shimming the clamp as a temporary fix with some scrap I had laying around. I purchased a new clamp, but have yet to install it because I have not had the problem repeat since my fix. Prior to that it was 50/50 if I'd have power or not on any given day.

[Allez]

Originally Posted by yourmomshouse

I need to replace mine in my 2016 SS. Car died 5 times in stop and go at low rpm. gauges started dying at heavy throttle. I'm getting zero juice when the alternator isn't spinning.
Is this the correct one?
https://www.impactbattery.com/norths...m48-l3-h6.html

If your car dies while it's running that's not a battery problem, unless I'm misunderstanding you. Maybe a connector problem as mentioned. Once your car is started it should be able to run with a dead battery.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by jcastag

My car is about to turn 3, and it seems my battery is starting to have trouble holding charge. I rarely use my car, and should probably use a battery tender, but I try to start it every few weeks.

Any suggestions on a solid replacement battery that will not break the bank? I hear the OEM has very inconsistent performance and longevity.

AntiGravity

[Casper the friendly G]

I'm over 53k miles on my 17 SS. Its my daily driver. That puts it at 5 years old and still going strong. How long do these batteries last? Do they give you plenty warning before failing?

[jamala00]

Originally Posted by Casper the friendly G

I'm over 53k miles on my 17 SS. Its my daily driver. That puts it at 5 years old and still going strong. How long do these batteries last? Do they give you plenty warning before failing?

I just replaced the OEM battery in my '16. Not because it showed signs of dying either, simply because I thought 6-7 years was a good run. Who knows how long it would have really lasted. I just got another AC Delco Battery. Why not, the last one did me just fine.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Jdelgado92

Before, it would drop down to around 11-12 and fluctuate even after driving all day.

This sounds like a cell going in and out, one of the less common failure modes.

As to "expected" battery life: 3-7 years.
Not at all predictable where you will end up in that range.