[Mov Ov3r]

Recently after a WOT instance, a check engine light came on and babied it all the way home (pulled over immediately to check for anything catastrophic, car did not go into limp mode or pop up any service warnings). Pulled the code and got a P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit (Bank 2). I noticed about 3 or 4 droplets of oil on the driveway. I couldn't detect any knock so I'm not sure what the cause is, but the check engine light is now off. I plan on taking it to the dealer, and could not figure out where the oil was coming from but it looks like oil has been leaking for an unknown amount of time, as there is oil on the cross member brace right behind the pan. Any ideas as to what this is from? Car is under warranty until July, only 12,600 miles on it.

My fear from the little I've seen posted on the site regarding P0330 is rear main seal related. Any one have any ideas? Car will be dropped at the dealer at some point this weekend.

[LT4Greg]

Hopefully the dealership can find where the leak is coming from and since you still have warranty I would definitely use it!

[Scottyz]

Couple months ago I had a faulty oil filter seal. I checked the filter tightness before we did anything and the filter was definitely tight. I’m a licensed auto and heavy equipment tech and this is iirc the third time I have witnessed a faulty seal on a visually undamaged oil filter. I’ve been licensed for over 20 years so yes I’ve done my share of services. ��
May wanna check the filter tightness. Could be just that. Hopefully cause that’s easy. With my car I was immediately worried it could be a rear main or something like that. Last thing you want is to have to remove a major mechanical components like the engine or transmission.

[ctrlz]

If it detected knock at WOT my first thought would be fuel grade problems. Can you get 93 in your area?
Have you been following oil level?

[Mov Ov3r]

Originally Posted by Scottyz

Couple months ago I had a faulty oil filter seal. I checked the filter tightness before we did anything and the filter was definitely tight. I’m a licensed auto and heavy equipment tech and this is iirc the third time I have witnessed a faulty seal on a visually undamaged oil filter. I’ve been licensed for over 20 years so yes I’ve done my share of services. May wanna check the filter tightness. Could be just that. Hopefully cause that’s easy. With my car I was immediately worried it could be a rear main or something like that. Last thing you want is to have to remove a major mechanical components like the engine or transmission.

I am unable to access the filter currently, no ramps and I don't want to use a scissor lift on it even with the jack pads I don't want to use a scissor unless it's absolutely necessary. It certainly could be this, trust me I am hoping it's not the rear main because if so

Originally Posted by ctrlz

If it detected knock at WOT my first thought would be fuel grade problems. Can you get 93 in your area?
Have you been following oil level?

My first thought was this as well because I did fill it up that morning (Exxon), premium is all the vehicle has seen, 93 only. It could most certainly be something as simple as bad gas, but would bad gas be enough to trip the knock sensor where the computer could not fix timing?

I was also thinking maybe injector or spark plug? my thought was this would be very uncommon at 12K miles, but that's not to say it's not the problem. If it was you would expect the check engine light to stay lit, or at least I would.

I checked the oil level and it appears high IMO it's at the very top of the crosshatch lines on the dipstick.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Mov Ov3r

My first thought was this as well because I did fill it up that morning (Exxon), premium is all the vehicle has seen, 93 only. It could most certainly be something as simple as bad gas, but would bad gas be enough to trip the knock sensor where the computer could not fix timing?

I was also thinking maybe injector or spark plug? my thought was this would be very uncommon at 12K miles, but that's not to say it's not the problem. If it was you would expect the check engine light to stay lit, or at least I would.

I think the knock sensor has to detect knock several times before you see a CEL. You did pull the code, so I assumed the light stayed lit for the ride home and then you cleared the DTC.
I would maybe check fuel trims for the affected cylinders. Could be running slightly lean there, and that manifests as knock at WOT. Fuel injector problem or small vacuum leak are possibilities.

[Mov Ov3r]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

I think the knock sensor has to detect knock several times before you see a CEL. You did pull the code, so I assumed the light stayed lit for the ride home and then you cleared the DTC.
I would maybe check fuel trims for the affected cylinders. Could be running slightly lean there, and that manifests as knock at WOT. Fuel injector problem or small vacuum leak are possibilities.

So I turned the car off twice, the first time right when I noticed it was lit to do the initial check, no obvious signs of anything under the car, in the engine bay etc. The second time was when I parked it, when I went turn on accessory mode to pull the code the CEL was off at that time, I was able to pull the code but since then even after starting it up the CEL has been off. The car is sitting at home for now. I think that's why I'm confused because the CEL was off when I went to pull the code.

[Mov Ov3r]

Update: The Knock sensor had been intermittently been getting "stuck open" as it was explained to me, thus causing the fault code for the P0330. The Knock sensor was replaced and they said all is well. No oil leaks found either, something I will have to keep an eye on if it returned to me still leaking oil onto the pan.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Mov Ov3r

Update: The Knock sensor had been intermittently been getting "stuck open" as it was explained to me, thus causing the fault code for the P0330. The Knock sensor was replaced and they said all is well.

Well that should boost performance!