[oldman]

even stock off the show room floor, the M6 could not be driven fast by stomping it. I was one of the first to show that sub 4.0 could be done with a M6 near stock on run flats and with a few bolt ons 3.8s could be done. With over 1000 WOT runs, I will go out on a limb and say few people can actually put this kind of power to the ground ( 700 up engine) with normal 220 wear summer tires and NONE if it is WOT below say 70 MPH... I do agree that speed builds quickly and in general I shut off at about 90 to 100 MPH (speed limit here is 85 MPH). So really we are talking about the ability to use WOT 2 to 4 seconds.

DR, 555R, 888, MT ( 0 to 100 wear) tires probably another story, adding another usable 100 engine HP and 30 MPH or so of WOT before 100 MPH. I do like the curvy back roads which are fast disappearing here, so the PS4 offers that. I don't know if I'm willing to trade that for more hook. I have long ago realize there is always faster, I just need in general to faster than the other DD around. I would already admit the M6 gives up a solid .5 in any condition on the street (don't know about the track), so obviously tire choice and transmission choice is part of how much HP is streetable. Streets here are pretty nice, flat wide, smooth, moderate traffic (use to be NO traffic).

[oldman]

on 93, I can get just about 9 PSI with a midsize pulley at 7200 RPM, the car is tuned for E85 but so far I have not tried it... At 7 PSI (heads, LT, cam) I never had any issues pistons looked great at 17,000 miles 1000 WOT runs 3 sets of rear tires... So IMO there is a little more head room with a high RPM engine and a centri ( or turbo). All on 11.5 CR BTW. Very linear power.

[Black16]

Bought my car used,never winter driven 22000 kms ( 14000 miles ) on a 2SS with magnetic ride and auto. Going to change converter and boost car in the near future love how the car rides. It reminds me of my 1992 Thunderbird Supercoupe low, go cart ride feeling. Just want to mod it sensibly and enjoy it for the years to come.

[USAFS197]

I spent a fair amount of time messing with the traction control stuff in HP Tuners. It can be adjusted to a degree. I know most of you just turn it off and hammer it but, for someone like me that loathes drag racing but still wants solid straight line acceleration, that’s a good place to start.

[GroundhogSS]

Originally Posted by oldman

Streets here are pretty nice, flat wide, smooth, moderate traffic (use to be NO traffic).

Streets in Austin used to be better but in the city suffer from lack of maintenance. The 130 toll road and most of the highways are still pretty good. But my car is stock so less of a problem.

[oldman]

22 years ago I could tare down 2243 and not see a single car. I could drive to Round Rock, where I worked (retired now), and never hit a traffic light. I did take down a Hellcat on 1431, at a light nobody for about a clear mile.... I drive my Camaro white with dual SEMA strips and my Type R Integra white on a daily basis so maybe we can hookup at Lowes meets or Cars and Coffee sometime.

[Black16]

Roads in Toronto are brutal, the run flats make the car very harsh. King what sze Nitto's are you running on the stock rims.

[s346k]

i can see the car taking a lot of power on a 17” wheel with a hoosier or m/t on it. 20” wheel with a road course tire on it? not so much.

[parish8]

Originally Posted by s346k

i can see the car taking a lot of power on a 17” wheel with a hoosier or m/t on it. 20” wheel with a road course tire on it? not so much.

I ran 20” 305 dr’s for awhile and they did great. The 6.48 time in my sig was on 20’s

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Black16

Roads in Toronto are brutal, the run flats make the car very harsh. King what sze Nitto's are you running on the stock rims.

305/35/20. They do well, look what times Parish has ran on them.

[Scottyz]

Originally Posted by Black16

Roads in Toronto are brutal, the run flats make the car very harsh. King what sze Nitto's are you running on the stock rims.

There’s still action here and there on the 407. Right by Derry it looks like somebody almost put it into the wall.

[JROC]

Originally Posted by oldman

4th gen Nitto 555R, converter, stock 3.23 gears, heads, headers, lid, tune, LS6 intake, cam, Borla… never loss a street fight, sure there are faster cars, but really how many do you see in the wild. We all know the above setup completely DD, even the wife could hop in and get some chips at the corner market...

Exactly.

Most of these high HP cars making 700+ WHP usually aren't just roaming the streets as DD'ers. When people take them out it's usually more of a planned event. There are cars out there that will handle a lot of power, but when you're honest the more power you start making over factory the less reliable things start to become, the more you have to invest in beefing up certain areas of the car, and the more maintenance becomes a requirement. You start finding the next weakest link. Basically it starts costing more to drive. For example even if you just want to cam your LS1 Fcar you might want to change your valve springs every 25K-30K miles. Better than the possible alternative of not PM'ing the valve springs. Also the rearend could easily become an issue, you might want to get that torque arm off the transmission, upgrading the driveshaft is a good idea, you will likely need to invest in a good clutch in a M6 car, there are a few suspension mods that should be done, etc. And this is just a fairly basic, low HP (say 400 WHP) LS1 car, much less a car making around double its factory output. BTW I'm not picking on the GEN4's, just using them as an example of how upping the HP on most factory cars tends to go.

Like you said a H/C/I/bolton/tuned LS1 car done by someone who knows what they are doing and putting down power in the 450 WHP range isn't going to lose to most other cars that they encounter on the streets unless you're frequently trying to run Z06's or boosted Coyote cars, or cars like that. Let me say it like this a 450 WHP GEN4 car will likely beat up on a 450 WHP GEN6 SS. Just like a 450 WHP Foxbody will (or at least should given his chassis/suspension/tranny/tire is up to snuff) run circles around a 450 WHP GEN6 Mudstain. IDK maybe a 450 WHP GEN6 SS with an A8/A10 tuned right might give an A4 450 WHP GEN4 a good run, but GEN4's have always been able to run some very respectable times with fairly low HP. Running low 11's at well over 120 MPH with pretty much full weight street cars is impressive for cars only putting down 420-450 WHP. My guess is if you could make an A8 or A10 backed GEN5 (SBC) LT1 work in a GEN4 (Fbody) you should have a low to mid 11 second capable car on a pretty much stock motor in a full weight car. Haven't people netted 11.6's or so with stock A8 GEN6 SS? Obviously not the norm, but I think it has been done.

Funny enough sometimes the people that give you the best runs are the ones you don't expect to be able to run with you. For example the best run I ever had in my Terminator which was your basic full bolton, pulleyed, 500'ish WHP car was from one of those old Dodge Dakota R/T trucks with the old 5.9L motors. Judging by his exhaust and the stance of the truck you could tell he wasn't quite stock, but regardless that was a strong running truck. I started to pull on him after 100 MPH, but that truck impressed me. This was back in probably early 2007 or there abouts, when Terminators were considered the baddest Mudstains on the block. 500 WHP back then wasn't quite as common as it is today.

[Black16]

Originally Posted by JROC

Exactly.

Most of these high HP cars making 700+ WHP usually aren't just roaming the streets as DD'ers. When people take them out it's usually more of a planned event. There are cars out there that will handle a lot of power, but when you're honest the more power you start making over factory the less reliable things start to become, the more you have to invest in beefing up certain areas of the car, and the more maintenance becomes a requirement. You start finding the next weakest link. Basically it starts costing more to drive. For example even if you just want to cam your LS1 Fcar you might want to change your valve springs every 25K-30K miles. Better than the possible alternative of not PM'ing the valve springs. Also the rearend could easily become an issue, you might want to get that torque arm off the transmission, upgrading the driveshaft is a good idea, you will likely need to invest in a good clutch in a M6 car, there are a few suspension mods that should be done, etc. And this is just a fairly basic, low HP (say 400 WHP) LS1 car, much less a car making around double its factory output. BTW I'm not picking on the GEN4's, just using them as an example of how upping the HP on most factory cars tends to go.

Like you said a H/C/I/bolton/tuned LS1 car done by someone who knows what they are doing and putting down power in the 450 WHP range isn't going to lose to most other cars that they encounter on the streets unless you're frequently trying to run Z06's or boosted Coyote cars, or cars like that. Let me say it like this a 450 WHP GEN4 car will likely beat up on a 450 WHP GEN6 SS. Just like a 450 WHP Foxbody will (or at least should given his chassis/suspension/tranny/tire is up to snuff) run circles around a 450 WHP GEN6 Mudstain. IDK maybe a 450 WHP GEN6 SS with an A8/A10 tuned right might give an A4 450 WHP GEN4 a good run, but GEN4's have always been able to run some very respectable times with fairly low HP. Running low 11's at well over 120 MPH with pretty much full weight street cars is impressive for cars only putting down 420-450 WHP. My guess is if you could make an A8 or A10 backed GEN5 (SBC) LT1 work in a GEN4 (Fbody) you should have a low to mid 11 second capable car on a pretty much stock motor in a full weight car. Haven't people netted 11.6's or so with stock A8 GEN6 SS? Obviously not the norm, but I think it has been done.

Funny enough sometimes the people that give you the best runs are the ones you don't expect to be able to run with you. For example the best run I ever had in my Terminator which was your basic full bolton, pulleyed, 500'ish WHP car was from one of those old Dodge Dakota R/T trucks with the old 5.9L motors. Judging by his exhaust and the stance of the truck you could tell he wasn't quite stock, but regardless that was a strong running truck. I started to pull on him after 100 MPH, but that truck impressed me. This was back in probably early 2007 or there abouts, when Terminators were considered the baddest Mudstains on the block. 500 WHP back then wasn't quite as common as it is today.

Which is exactly why I am asking on here. I only want to put maybe 500-550 RWH once you go too far the car becomes a money pit. Just a small blower and torque converter with the fuel upgrade might be best in the long run. The more power the possibility of more problems becomes a reality. Plus i like the 4 cylinder mode for longer hwy travelling.

[JROC]

Originally Posted by Black16

Which is exactly why I am asking on here. I only want to put maybe 500-550 RWH once you go too far the car becomes a money pit. Just a small blower and torque converter with the fuel upgrade might be best in the long run. The more power the possibility of more problems becomes a reality. Plus i like the 4 cylinder mode for longer hwy travelling.

Not trying to be a know it all, or tell you how you should mod your car, but IMHO the worst thing on these cars is the AFM/DOD. It's not known to be one of GM's better innovations, and really doesn't help much with the MPG's in real world driving. (it may on an engine dyno) It's not a very reliable system, and especially not if you intend to mod. I work with a guy who's buddy had a GEN6 that sustained heavy motor damage to the top end. It apparently took the cam out, so my guess is it had something to do with the DOD lifters. Pretty sure the M6 cars don't use DOD, but they still get the same lifter arrangement as the automatic cars. If I ever take the heads off I for sure will be upgrading the lifters and deleting anything to do with AFM and likely also the VVT as I assume if I was doing head work I'd also be running an aftermarket cam. Just my $.02.