Possible oil pump failure but it may have been the crank - Page 4

laynlo15 · 12-25-2019, 08:12 AM

Thanks Jim, I'll check that out.

Umbriel · 12-25-2019, 08:17 AM

Is there another option besides the Katech one? I looked it up and it was $900 which I'm sure is that much because it's is one of or the only one available right now.

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laynlo15 · 12-25-2019, 08:25 AM

Actually that won't work its for a dry sump. So as of now no one offers an option. Sucks cause whatever I decide to do and everyone else like Goohead we have to put it back together with the stock pump again.

Umbriel · 12-25-2019, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Actually that won't work its for a dry sump. So as of now no one offers an option. Sucks cause whatever I decide to do and everyone else like Goohead we have to put it back together with the stock pump again.

I didn't even catch that, definitely sucks especially since it seems to be an issue with these cars. I'm doing a 416 two turbo build looking for 1200+ and I am concerned about that pump failing.

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laynlo15 · 12-25-2019, 10:18 AM

Here is an update as of this morning. I finally pulled the pump apart and its fine on the inside and looks as a new one would have. I looked at all the failures and there was a picture of the pump ring where it had cracked. Mine was perfect however I had mentioned in my early post the oil ran from the front of the crank when we pulled the balancer bolt out and now I feel it might have been the crank that broke and caused the issue from the beginning. I'm guessing that it cracked in one of the oil passages up by the snout and starved the crank main and rod bearings.

Umbriel · 12-25-2019, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Here is an update as of this morning. I finally pulled the pump apart and its fine on the inside and looks as a new one would have. I looked at all the failures and there was a picture of the pump ring where it had cracked. Mine was perfect however I had mentioned in my early post the oil ran from the front of the crank when we pulled the balancer bolt out and now I feel it might have been the crank that broke and caused the issue from the beginning. I'm guessing that it cracked in one of the oil passages up by the snout and starved the crank main and rod bearings.

So you're thinking a forged crank won't have this issue?

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laynlo15 · 12-25-2019, 11:54 AM

These are forged cranks, the Lt1 and Lt4 are both forged but the Lt4 has the Fillets where the crank journals are radiused
I corrected that in an earlier post because I originally thought the LT1 was a Cast Crank.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...ads-cam-specs/
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...am-specs-more/

For anyone interested here are the differences between the 2 engines.

Umbriel · 12-25-2019, 12:10 PM

Well hopefully I do not have this issue with my motor, it would not make me happy. Lol

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Umbriel · 12-25-2019, 12:10 PM

Well hopefully I do not have this issue with my motor, it would not make me happy. Lol

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oldman · 12-25-2019, 02:40 PM

yep fillet is stronger, but the undercut is OK for production, from memory the stock LT1 rods are not cleared for fillets. Most / all aftermarket rods are. Must be making some huge torque numbers to fail a crank.

laynlo15 · 12-25-2019, 04:21 PM

About 800 lbs

laynlo15 · 12-27-2019, 02:58 PM

I'm looking at another option and might just put a Lt4 short block in it if I can find a good one. It would be an easy swap and don't think I'm even going to mess with rebuilding this lt1. If anyone knows of one let me know.

laynlo15 · 01-06-2020, 06:33 PM

Found some metal in the oil pan pickup plus some valve seals and its possible the metal is actually from the metal on the seals but flattened out. So who the $uck

knows what happened but it wasn't good.

12-25-2019, 10:18 AM	#47
laynlo15 Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: clark, mo Posts: 8,882	Here is an update as of this morning. I finally pulled the pump apart and its fine on the inside and looks as a new one would have. I looked at all the failures and there was a picture of the pump ring where it had cracked. Mine was perfect however I had mentioned in my early post the oil ran from the front of the crank when we pulled the balancer bolt out and now I feel it might have been the crank that broke and caused the issue from the beginning. I'm guessing that it cracked in one of the oil passages up by the snout and starved the crank main and rod bearings. Last edited by laynlo15; 12-25-2019 at 10:29 AM.

12-25-2019, 02:40 PM	#52
oldman Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Hilo, HI Posts: 4,346	yep fillet is stronger, but the undercut is OK for production, from memory the stock LT1 rods are not cleared for fillets. Most / all aftermarket rods are. Must be making some huge torque numbers to fail a crank. __________________ Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.

12-25-2019, 08:12 AM	#43
laynlo15 Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: clark, mo Posts: 8,882	Thanks Jim, I'll check that out.

12-25-2019, 08:17 AM	#44
Umbriel Drives: 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Bartlett, TN Posts: 1,121	Is there another option besides the Katech one? I looked it up and it was $900 which I'm sure is that much because it's is one of or the only one available right now. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

12-25-2019, 08:25 AM	#45
laynlo15 Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: clark, mo Posts: 8,882	Actually that won't work its for a dry sump. So as of now no one offers an option. Sucks cause whatever I decide to do and everyone else like Goohead we have to put it back together with the stock pump again.

12-25-2019, 11:54 AM	#49
laynlo15 Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: clark, mo Posts: 8,882	These are forged cranks, the Lt1 and Lt4 are both forged but the Lt4 has the Fillets where the crank journals are radiused I corrected that in an earlier post because I originally thought the LT1 was a Cast Crank. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...ads-cam-specs/ https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...am-specs-more/ For anyone interested here are the differences between the 2 engines.

12-25-2019, 12:10 PM	#50
Umbriel Drives: 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Bartlett, TN Posts: 1,121	Well hopefully I do not have this issue with my motor, it would not make me happy. Lol Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

12-25-2019, 04:21 PM	#53
laynlo15 Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: clark, mo Posts: 8,882	About 800 lbs

12-27-2019, 02:58 PM	#54
laynlo15 Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: clark, mo Posts: 8,882	I'm looking at another option and might just put a Lt4 short block in it if I can find a good one. It would be an easy swap and don't think I'm even going to mess with rebuilding this lt1. If anyone knows of one let me know.

01-06-2020, 06:33 PM	#55
laynlo15 Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: clark, mo Posts: 8,882	Found some metal in the oil pan pickup plus some valve seals and its possible the metal is actually from the metal on the seals but flattened out. So who the $uck knows what happened but it wasn't good.

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