[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

This is where I am. Might get headers and an intake in a couple years.

Originally Posted by pbsinternet1le

Also be ready to void your warranty...

This is why I'm in no hurry.

[R3ctivision]

I might have the unpopular opinion here.. but if you are going to go FI on an SS 1LE, why not just go ZL1 and be done with it? Factory engineering, 200 BHP, warranty, and probably cheaper than modding. And the whole car is engineered to handle more power and weight (cooling, damper tune, brake rotors, etc).

[Apex_Missing_Ape]

Originally Posted by R3ctivision

I might have the unpopular opinion here.. but if you are going to go FI on an SS 1LE, why not just go ZL1 and be done with it? Factory engineering, 200 BHP, warranty, and probably cheaper than modding. And the whole car is engineered to handle more power and weight (cooling, damper tune, brake rotors, etc).

I'm guessing because of money (5-6k more vs 15k for a ZL1). Or some may just want to go go fast for 10 seconds at a time and couldn't care less about performance outside of the drag strip. Drag racing does nothing for me anymore so I'd personally get a ZL1 if I needed a significant bump in power, but I can see why others wouldn't.

[Ranedoss27]

Originally Posted by Apex_Missing_Ape

I'm guessing because of money (5-6k more vs 15k for a ZL1). Or some may just want to go go fast for 10 seconds at a time and couldn't care less about performance outside of the drag strip. Drag racing does nothing for me anymore so I'd personally get a ZL1 if I needed a significant bump in power, but I can see why others wouldn't.

I wanted the ZL1 but didnt care for some of its accessories (wheels, spoiler, etc.) Also couldnt find a low mileage one for under 48K. So I got a 18' 1LE with 2K miles on it for 33.5K. Will be bolting on the whipple kit for about 7K and will make about 600whp against the ZL1 which puts down 550-560whp on the same dyno. So its essentially a ZL1 without the interior bells and whistles. And I saved about 9K. Also will be emissions legal for me. Just my two cents. FWIW

[Jaxcam02]

Camshaft, Procharger and tune and be done with it.

[Ventura 1LE]

Different strokes for different folks. I agree about cost savings when shopping for a ZL1 and 1LE difference. Saving 7k to 10k is room to have mods.

FI for those that want the power gains and not long runs such as a road course. Perhaps using the car for a bit of fun in the streets in red light pulls/drag strip.

Me personally I went with the 1LE to eventually build up NA with cam,intake,headers,bottom end with tune well after warranty and it needs a rebuild.. Tracking my bone stock is good enough with my only replacement is tires, fluids, brakes and other consumables..

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by Ranedoss27

I wanted the ZL1 but didnt care for some of its accessories (wheels, spoiler, etc.) Also couldnt find a low mileage one for under 48K. So I got a 18' 1LE with 2K miles on it for 33.5K. Will be bolting on the whipple kit for about 7K and will make about 600whp against the ZL1 which puts down 550-560whp on the same dyno. So its essentially a ZL1 without the interior bells and whistles. And I saved about 9K. Also will be emissions legal for me. Just my two cents. FWIW

Also without an LT4 with forged internals and factory tuning in the PTM modes and MagRide system for the increased power and weight, suspension spring rates, ZL1 brakes are a little heavier duty too, and it has a factory warranty and far better resale value. The money you put into a car modifying it only makes it worth less in a vast majority of cases.

The ZL1 is an overall better deal if you can afford it upfront, imo.

----

My performance mods are brake lines and fluid... I'll keep my warranty and a ton of cash in my pocket.

[Mister Will]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Also without an LT4 with forged internals and factory tuning in the PTM modes and MagRide system for the increased power and weight, suspension spring rates, ZL1 brakes are a little heavier duty too, and it has a factory warranty and far better resale value. The money you put into a car modifying it only makes it worth less in a vast majority of cases.

The ZL1 is an overall better deal if you can afford it upfront, imo.

----

My performance mods are brake lines and fluid... I'll keep my warranty and a ton of cash in my pocket.

It can be a bitter pill to swallow, but he speaks the truth. If the factory makes it buy it from the factory.

[Aragorn]

Originally Posted by MATTY-1LE

Roto fab cool air intake, then kooks or american racing headers, then corsa or billy boat exhaust, then msd manifold, then stop and think if you really wanna touch the engine or add any forced induction in my opinion. I personally have heavily modified all my past muscle cars with now regret. This one will stay stock or have some minor bolt ons at best.

I’ve seen several posts recently expressing regrets in regards to modifications. Are you able to elaborate on those regrets? Thank you

[SJFGTO]

As stated, mods from intake to headers to tune to cam will be totally different between a turbo and supercharger. So decide first if you are going FI and then which one, otherwise you may be recreating a very expensive wheel. As a general rule, headers, high flow cats and a tune are a very cost effective mod. Headers will not cause a loss of torque. Your torque will increase throughout the torque curve.

[mggeyer]

So I read your request for band for you buck power adders. I had a plan when I bought my 17 SS1LE new. I am a N/A guy. I dont believe blowers should be installed on motors that were not designed for them. I did NOT want to go into the LT1 engine. My bolt-on plan consist of the following. Gm CAI ( no Factory tune) 95 mm throttle body, PORTED MSD airforce intake, Kooks 17/8 headers with green cats, secondary cat delete, AWE touring exhaust with resonators cat back, E 85 kit abd custon dyno tune.
The results: 475hp 470 ft. lbs. thats 550 crank HP. I am extremely pleased with these bolt on results. The car is a beast. Drives like stock until you hammer it. Its my perfect SS1LE, slots itself between a Z28 & ZL1. this car is FAST! No more more getting pulled down longer straights at the track by GT3 s. From 4-6.5 k rpm this thing rocks while maintaining its awesome low end torque. No its not a blower motor HP monster but it is a significant improvement over stock and in my mind makes it FANTASTIC. A car that can humble much more expensive hardware at the track. Ive retired from racing and instruct occasionally , after racing corvettes and having had the opportunity to drive many high performance street and race cars this SS 1LE is absolutely phenominal!! Just my perspective. FOr those of you that will no doubt bring this up , the car dynoed sub 400hp as a baseline on what is know as a stingy dyno jet. very nice gains with great driveability

[Matos1LE]

Originally Posted by parkersextonn

Which one would be the best way to go? Or does it really come down to personal preference?

It depends on how you define best. If you want the most straightforward install, with the least packaging issues, you can't beat a supercharger. It also makes good, instant power. Turbos are harder to package in these cars (at least in the engine bay) and involve a lot of hot piping running where I wouldn't want it. It would be easier to make big dyno numbers with turbos though. Big dyno numbers are fairly useless on their own, it's all about how the power gets put down and to what end the car is built. That being said, what is your goal for this power? Do you want to win drag contests at your local drag strip or do you plan to win at the road course? Is it all just for a fun street car? An all around/multipurpose vehicle?

[LARRY01Z28]

e85,tune rotofab, pray ported intake and TB. underdrive pulley.
sticky tires will be on your list next. lol