[artey34]

What do you guys see in terms of longevity on the stock pads, rotors and tires? I have 6,500 miles and 1 track day so far. All looks good, but I dont know what I need to be looking out for when I go through my track prep list. I drive the car to the track, so I cant cord the tires or use the entire pads as I wouldn't be able to get home. So my questions are:

Stock pad thickness?
When to replace pads prior to next track day?
How much do you typically go through in a track day?
How low would you let the pads get?

Stock tire tread depth?
What tread should you replace before you track?
Pics of when to replace?

When to replace rotors?
What to look for on rotors to know when to replace?

I plan to stick with all stock equipment until the driver mod kicks in and I am at the full limit of the car.

Thanks for the reply's!

[JLz06]

Free bump since I want to know this too. Also I looked at goodyear's website and saw that the stock tires come with 7/32s of tread depth.

Rotors usually have a number stamped somewhere on them that shows the minimum thickness. Cracks or deep grooves would be obvious signs that they need to be changed.

[Uncle Sam]

One thing to consider is pad thickness and heat transfer. I would replace pads that are more than 1/2 worn for this reason - more material = less heat transfer. Throw them in your spare kit in case you need them.

Pad wear is track dependent - lots of braking = more wear. I replaced my front pads after twelve, twenty minute sessions on track and about 4K street miles. My rears are still good, maybe one or two more track days out of those before I am over half way.

There is a ton of brake and tire info if you search.

[nasbagoat]

Rule of thumb, do not start a track day when the pad material is thinner than the width of the brake pad backing plate.

ive gotten 6-10 days out of a set front pads + street drving
ive gotten 8-12 days out of a reAr set of pads + street driving

Im at 21 days and my rotors are still good. Look for cracks that are 1" or longer, or cracks that extend to the edge of the rotor surface. Then replace.

summer track days are way harder on the car, go for spring and fall. edit: this masy not apply to michigan temps.

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by JLz06

Free bump since I want to know this too. Also I looked at goodyear's website and saw that the stock tires come with 7/32s of tread depth.

Also on the outside tread of the Goodyears there is plenty of rubber left when it appears the tread is gone.
Inside of the tire has normal depth tread grooves to channel away water, the outside has shallow superficial tread grooves but plenty of rubber for cornering loads.
Near the outside edge there are small tread holes that you can use to check how much rubber is left.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

Also on the outside tread of the Goodyears there is plenty of rubber left when it appears the tread is gone.
Inside of the tire has normal depth tread grooves to channel away water, the outside has shallow superficial tread grooves but plenty of rubber for cornering loads.
Near the outside edge there are small tread holes that you can use to check how much rubber is left.

This re tires but somewhat dependent if one needs to drive in a wet or not. Rule of thumb 6-7 tracks days plus to/from plus mild dd. More or less (this is the same for G3, RE71R or Cup2 in my experience).
EDIT: stock tires dont fall off much grip wise even if they look like slicks (and then cord). But driving in the wet would be highly compromised. That's the only reason for treads on any tire (water evacuation).

Front rotors about 12 track days, rears much longer - this based in fast pace. Checking heat checks length and depth required as mentioned above.

Pads about the same as tires, but also track dependent.
50% is considered min for start of any track event (by usual tech inspection std). Rears may last a bit longer if Stabilitrak is off, but i swap all 4 at the same time.

Oil/ediff/tranny fluids about 6 track days.

Brake fluid flush once per season and bleed once mod season if SRF. More frequent bleed if not.

Cheers!

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Front rotors about 12 track days, rears much longer - this based in fast pace.

Oil/ediff/tranny fluids about 6 track days.

How much time on track do you consider a day? Are you using stock SS 1LE Fedoro brake pads? Are you going from 34mm new thickness to 32mm discard thickness in that time?

SS 1LE rotor specs: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...59&postcount=7

Have you done a Blackstone (or similar) analysis on the used fluids? That diff/transmission fluid interval seems significantly shorter than anything mentioned in the manual or high performance supplement. The supplement also says to disregard the oil life monitor when tracking and change the oil every 4 track hours with 0w40 dexos2 or 5w40 dexos2.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

How much time on track do you consider a day? Are you using stock SS 1LE Fedoro brake pads? Are you going from 34mm new thickness to 32mm discard thickness in that time?

SS 1LE rotor specs: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...59&postcount=7

Have you done a Blackstone (or similar) analysis on the used fluids? That diff/transmission fluid interval seems significantly shorter than anything mentioned in the manual or high performance supplement. The supplement also says to disregard the oil life monitor when tracking and change the oil every 4 track hours with 0w40 dexos2 or 5w40 dexos2.

Average track day: 4x25 or 30min. If i run 45min sessions then i count them as 1.5 days.

A few folks have posted Blackstone reports on oil after 6 days or so and it looked fine. But it would also depend how much dd one did in the same period, as oil will degrade much faster during severe duty (such as city driving, frequent starts and stops, cold starts, short trips that dont allow for reaching full operating temps, etc).
Of course track is severe duty as well. And only hiway driving above 55mph is considered normal duty (by oil manufacturers). This means some 80% of owners regularly experience severe duty without realizing it. Fyi only.

I change oil when oil monitor shows not less than 50% left, which equals to about 6 days plus some modest dd. Ive used the same std for my Vette track car, which had 10 yrs of track duty and is still running strong with the original motor and zero rebuilds (now 16 yrs old).

The comment about disregarding oil monitor and 4 hrs appeared only in 2018 manual. I dont know why, but i suspect if somebody went to a track while monitor said 20% left, or whatever. Nowhere does the manual mention minimum monitor life left vs track use, so perhaps somebody could go track the car when monitor shows 10% left. I suspect that's why 4 hrs was mentioned as the worst possible case.

The manual mentions 15hrs of track use for both manual and auto trannies. 24hrs (or maybe 25?) for the diff, but given that fluid comes out as a sludge i do it together with the tranny.

As to rotors, min thickness is a good std to check mainly for dd cars as they will never experience heat checking unless tracked. Or for cars that are mainly dd with some track days. Since majority of "track rats" do somewhere between 15 and 30 days per season, heat checks become a problem way before rotor thickness. But it is a good std to check for everyone else and thanks for posting the info.

Cheers!

[Mountain]

Can anyone confirm new pad thickness (in mm)? I never checked this and am curious.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Mountain

Can anyone confirm new pad thickness (in mm)? I never checked this and am curious.

9.5

[Mountain]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

9.5

Thanks! Much appreciate.

My experience with tire and brakes look to be lining up right at where everyone else is stating with # of events.

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Average track day: 4x25 or 30min. If i run 45min sessions then i count them as 1.5 days.

A few folks have posted Blackstone reports on oil after 6 days or so and it looked fine. But it would also depend how much dd one did in the same period, as oil will degrade much faster during severe duty (such as city driving, frequent starts and stops, cold starts, short trips that dont allow for reaching full operating temps, etc).
Of course track is severe duty as well. And only hiway driving above 55mph is considered normal duty (by oil manufacturers). This means some 80% of owners regularly experience severe duty without realizing it. Fyi only.

I change oil when oil monitor shows not less than 50% left, which equals to about 6 days plus some modest dd. Ive used the same std for my Vette track car, which had 10 yrs of track duty and is still running strong with the original motor and zero rebuilds (now 16 yrs old).

The comment about disregarding oil monitor and 4 hrs appeared only in 2018 manual. I dont know why, but i suspect if somebody went to a track while monitor said 20% left, or whatever. Nowhere does the manual mention minimum monitor life left vs track use, so perhaps somebody could go track the car when monitor shows 10% left. I suspect that's why 4 hrs was mentioned as the worst possible case.

The manual mentions 15hrs of track use for both manual and auto trannies. 24hrs (or maybe 25?) for the diff, but given that fluid comes out as a sludge i do it together with the tranny.

As to rotors, min thickness is a good std to check mainly for dd cars as they will never experience heat checking unless tracked. Or for cars that are mainly dd with some track days. Since majority of "track rats" do somewhere between 15 and 30 days per season, heat checks become a problem way before rotor thickness. But it is a good std to check for everyone else and thanks for posting the info.

Cheers!

I don't track the car, but I do change the oil at about 50% life.
Funny thing I noticed is the oil life monitor in the Camaro is more aggressive than my '08 C6.
Same driving and the Camaro hits 50% where the C6 would be closer to 70% life left.

[artey34]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

9.5

So if the pads are 4mm of less, dont start a track day on them. Time to replace

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by artey34

So if the pads are 4mm of less, dont start a track day on them. Time to replace

Pretty much. As mentioned in one of the posts above, the thinner they get the more heat and the faster they wear. I certainly would not start with anything less than 50% but it is also venue dependent and also how many days does an event have. Single day no probs. 2 or 3 of hard running and they would most likely run out. Good idea to carry spares, like maybe a set of 50% or less worn ones just in case...