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![]() Drives: 2016 Camaro 2LT V6 RS Bose Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 3
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New Sound System Design Help
I have a 2016 Camaro 2lt with the premium 9 speaker bose system. I added a BOSS Audio R1100MK Car Amplifier and a MTX Audio Terminator Subwoofer. I also replaced the rear side speakers with JBL GTO629 coaxial speakers. The rest of the speakers in the car are actually quite good and I don't think they need replacing. Maybe I'm wrong.
My system currently has 11 speakers: Center Dash Mid/High Range Speaker Two Mid/High Range Speaker Two Woofers in the doors Two Rear Side Coaxial Speakers (JBL GTO629) Two Rear Deck Woofers Two 12in Subwoofers (MTX Audio Terminator Subwoofer) I want to be able to use a DSP on the entire car. However, I am goind to disconnect the rear deck speakers because I have all the bass I need. I don't know exactly how to do this so I created a rough draft sort of plan. I plan on using a D-6.1200 AudioControl DSP/Amplifier. It only has 6 outputs which would cover 6 of my 9 speakers (not including the rear deck speakers). It also has two line level outputs which I have a bad plan for. I'm going to use one of the outputs and run it to the amp I currently have which would then go to the subwoofers. And I'm going to run the other one to a separate mono block amplifier which would power the center dash speaker. I have no clue whether this makes any sense or if it will work. Below are the plans drawn out because its hard to follow. But if it does this will allow me to time align and equalize each speaker to my own preference. So my question is what is the smarter way to do this? If money was no option what components would you buy? Two DSP's? Different DSP? Different Amps? Different Wiring? How would you be able to DSP all 9 speakers? Do I need a LOC? My plan is all over the place so there must be a better way of doing things. I want to have the best audio system I can have so I am prepared to drop over $1,000 on it. I just need help planning. I'm basically asking someone to help me plan an entire audio system. Any and all help is appreciated. Plans in a higher quality so you can read the words: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ihfds9czm...Plans.png?dl=0 |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 ZL1 Convertible A10 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: San Gabriel, CA
Posts: 993
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Quote:
1st, your drawing is impossible from the start. There is no speaker level output leaving your headunits like in the old days with previous vehicles. This car uses a MOST50 system. So you need to start with the PACAmpPro4 unit https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalo...faces/ap4-gm61 This will allow you to run a clean, non EQ'd flat signal.You can either run this to amplifiers, or to you DSP, and then to amplifiers. 2nd, You do not need 9 channels. Even if you decide to run the center channel (which for imaging purposes is unnecessary) you only need 8 channels. 1 for center 2/3 for dash mid range 4/5 for door midbass 6/7 for rear fill 8 for subwoofers there is no need for nine channels if you are not running the rear deck speakers (which I agree is asinine if you have two subs) Your choice of DSP depends on your budget, whether you want full digital TOSLink connections from the PAC > DSP > digital amplifiers, and how specific you want to get regarding having a graphic or parametric 32 band EQ for each speaker. IN this case, either a JL clean sweep + twk or Hertz H8 or Audison BitTen/bitone or Rockford 360 would all get you there. After that, your choice in amplifiers is again up to your budget. Some will tell you to match the amplifier to your speakers (get a 100Watt rms x 4 amplifier if you have speakers that take 100watts RMS). I disagree. you always want more headroom regarding amp wattage in order to drive your speakers at an efficient volume without overheating them . You can control for clipping at the level of the DSP or via gain on the amplfiers I would also consider 1 or two BATCAPS. I run two Batcap 400's in parallel in my systems. Each one if like a 40 farad capacitor Now what you may notice in all of this is, it aint cheap to built a nice system. You don't HAVE to spend $15K on an audio system, but I do for mine because my ear requires it at this point (unfortunately) . But you won't get anything near a great setup for $1000
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'17 White ZL1 A10 Convertible - TM ported TB - RotoFab CAI - 2.3" griptech upper pulley - Kooks 1 7/8" Headers with High Flow Cats - Borla S-type Catback - Audio Overhaul - NavTV M650-GM - 20" BlackDiForza- Michelin Pilot Sport4S - Tuned at BRC Raceworks (606rwhp/675trq)
'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq) '17 Maserati Levante- STOCK ![]() Last edited by drfeelgood; 07-12-2019 at 12:28 PM. |
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#4 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 ZL1 Convertible A10 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: San Gabriel, CA
Posts: 993
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For you, if you just want to add subbass and an amplifier, I say still add the AmpPro4 as opposed to a ******** module. The clean full range signal you will get from the Pac unit will reproduce those low frequencies perfectly. Also, a PROPER sound deadening alone is going to bring your Bose system to life by itself! https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products
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'17 White ZL1 A10 Convertible - TM ported TB - RotoFab CAI - 2.3" griptech upper pulley - Kooks 1 7/8" Headers with High Flow Cats - Borla S-type Catback - Audio Overhaul - NavTV M650-GM - 20" BlackDiForza- Michelin Pilot Sport4S - Tuned at BRC Raceworks (606rwhp/675trq)
'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq) '17 Maserati Levante- STOCK ![]() |
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