[gubel]

Hi,

I am taking my ZL1 1LE to the car shop to set camber and alignment for the car. Is there any setup that will work both for track and street?

I guess that i need to set aligment etc every time i change from "street" to "track"?

[wnyzl11le]

I also had this question after talking to a few people who race cars this is what I came up with and did.

1. -2.8 of camber upfront will toast your tires on the street
2. depending on your driving skill level you may or may not use all the camber once it is set to -2.8

I set my car to -1.8 in the front and -1.0 in the rear seems to work for me. I can still drive the car on the street and I had a blast at watkins glen with it.

just my 2 cents.

[rlarsen462]

Depends on what your street/track balance is. I elected to set -2.7 up front and deal with the extra inner shoulder wear on the tires for street because I only put a few thousand street miles/year on the car. Running lower camber on the track will wreck your track tires much faster. Replacing street tires once every year or two at worst vs. getting 1 track day on a set of fronts vs. 2 or 3, the economics worked out in favor of running track camber all the time for me.

[Akirasoft]

Originally Posted by rlarsen462

Depends on what your street/track balance is. I elected to set -2.7 up front and deal with the extra inner shoulder wear on the tires for street because I only put a few thousand street miles/year on the car. Running lower camber on the track will wreck your track tires much faster. Replacing street tires once every year or two at worst vs. getting 1 track day on a set of fronts vs. 2 or 3, the economics worked out in favor of running track camber all the time for me.

same here, I only put <1500 miles a year on the car outside of the track so I'm running -2.7 full time. Even with this much camber up front I find that I'm still wearing the outer edges of the tires more than the inners.

[rlarsen462]

Originally Posted by Akirasoft

same here, I only put <1500 miles a year on the car outside of the track so I'm running -2.7 full time. Even with this much camber up front I find that I'm still wearing the outer edges of the tires more than the inners.

My wear was pretty even from ~7-8 sessions at High Plains Raceway on Friday, but even still I could probably go to 3. Was at -1.5 in the rear and they were really even.

[Akirasoft]

Originally Posted by rlarsen462

My wear was pretty even from ~7-8 sessions at High Plains Raceway on Friday, but even still I could probably go to 3. Was at -1.5 in the rear and they were really even.

yeah, my understanding track wear all depends on track and driving style. *shrug*

I actually like having this camber on the street too but I'm a bit of a goofball

[Harpinc]

Originally Posted by wnyzl11le

I also had this question after talking to a few people who race cars this is what I came up with and did.

1. -2.8 of camber upfront will toast your tires on the street
2. depending on your driving skill level you may or may not use all the camber once it is set to -2.8

I set my car to -1.8 in the front and -1.0 in the rear seems to work for me. I can still drive the car on the street and I had a blast at watkins glen with it.

just my 2 cents.

I am about to go to -3.3 to -3.5 camber in front (currently -3.0 and still wearing outside) and at -2.2 in the rear I get great wear. My car is thus far the fastest ZLE that I know of at my home track but I am sure someone will eclipse that sooner or later.

[Cleancoupe]

Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought this was one of the advantages of the front suspension setup on the ZLE is that you can rotate the front suspension assembly so that you can get your more negative camber for the track then simply flip it back when you want your street alignment again?

[mt.nichols]

Originally Posted by Cleancoupe

Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought this was one of the advantages of the front suspension setup on the ZLE is that you can rotate the front suspension assembly so that you can get your more negative camber for the track then simply flip it back when you want your street alignment again?

While this is true, it is best to get an alignment each time you rotate the strut because there is a significant change in toe between the two positions. It kind of defeats the purpose of rotating the strut, IMO.

[Harpinc]

Originally Posted by mt.nichols

While this is true, it is best to get an alignment each time you rotate the strut because there is a significant change in toe between the two positions. It kind of defeats the purpose of rotating the strut, IMO.

Exactly... Way too much change to just flip them.

[gubel]

wnyzl11le - hmm. so -1.8 vs 1.0 front and back, Did you set the plates to "track"?

Im running 2500 miles per year with 3-4 track days. Im on R888 tires if that makes any difference.

[Apexslayer]

With such low milage and so few track days, you are fine with your compromise setting. However, if you start to do more track days or really want to get the best from the car at the track go to the track setting. The performance/handling is significantly better with the track setting.

[wnyzl11le]

Originally Posted by gubel

wnyzl11le - hmm. so -1.8 vs 1.0 front and back, Did you set the plates to "track"?

Im running 2500 miles per year with 3-4 track days. Im on R888 tires if that makes any difference.

No that is street settings for the front and rear.