[trublucamaro]

Does anyone here dabble, or perhaps for a living, do 3D printing to make different items for the cars? Is there anyone who would want to tackle a small project? Thanks

~ John

[zts1986]

What’s the overall L x W x H dimension?

[trublucamaro]

Originally Posted by zts1986

What’s the overall L x W x H dimension?

This is the fuse box cover...

I figure the hard part is going to be dealing with the clips… If you print face down the clips have to be supported, if you print face up in the middle of the box has to be supported because the item is hollow… There’s also a lip around the outside that create a channel… I figured it can be done, just figuring out how to support those clips and what materials to do it and so those clips can bend.

Width less than 7”

Length less than 6”

Heights between 1 1/8” and 1 1/4”

Of course being able to print it in multiple colors would be nice as well

[DIYguy]

Modeling such a thing could be a bit involved due to the finer details and need to dimensionally fit up to the fuse box.
3D prints shrink as they cool for example and often in odd ways.
The clips could be printed as separate parts and assembled to the shell.
Achieving the level of detail you show in the photos will be very difficult.

Supporting any floating portions during the print is normally handled by the slicer software which can be configured as needed.
But you might be disappointed in the surface finish (it will not be smooth without a fair amount of post-printing work.
I find that the best finish will usually be on whatever contacts the printing bed, so the part print can be planned from there.

As for colors, unless you happen to have whatever color(s) you want on hand that can get expensive (each reel of filament will cost $15-$40 depending on material and source).
Because post-print finishing (including painting) is usually required anyway, it is probably best just to print the parts in black, white or clear and paint them whatever you want.

Printing things to remain flexible is basically down to a choice of materials.
Nylon or PETG would be better, but ABS is far more common and should work fine.
I have printed lock clips for coil pack connectors, plug wire guides, small electrical covers and sound tube defeat parts in ABS for example and all remain flexible.

Question though- What are you trying to achieve that is different than the cover you show?
If it is only a modification of the cover, the best thing to do might be to model and print the changed portion only and then attach it to a modified stock cover.

Oh, and printing a finish like that is essentially impossible.

[bignaz]

Oh yeah. I got a few 3d printers. Don't mind the corners I broke then when I was trying to use that as a dart.

[trublucamaro]

Originally Posted by DIYguy

Achieving the level of detail you show in the photos will be very difficult.

I’m not looking for any “level of detail” other than dimensions for a cover to clip into place of existing cover. More to that point later.

Originally Posted by DIYguy

But you might be disappointed in the surface finish (it will not be smooth without a fair amount of post-printing work.
I find that the best finish will usually be on whatever contacts the printing bed, so the part print can be planned from there.

The cover is just acting as a place holder and attachment point for other items. I do not want to drill into a stock cover for mounting hardware as it will destroy the useable image for fuse location on the other side.

Originally Posted by DIYguy

As for colors, unless you happen to have whatever color(s) you want on hand that can get expensive (each reel of filament will cost $15-$40 depending on material and source).

Yep, custom pieces are usually pricey. It either can or cannot be done. The angle you are coming at isn’t lending to the conversation. I do know a tad about printing 3D, I just don’t have the capability currently. This is fact finding. Money for reels of different substrate in different colors in something that can be dealt with. I’m assuming you have been to sites like thingiverse? Are you familiar with lithophanes? Imagine a fuse box cover with a light behind it, controlled with other lighting items in the engine bay... yeah, I imagined that too. And here we are fact finding.

Originally Posted by DIYguy

Because post-print finishing (including painting) is usually required anyway, it is probably best just to print the parts in black, white or clear and paint them whatever you want.

Printing things to remain flexible is basically down to a choice of materials.
Nylon or PETG would be better, but ABS is far more common and should work fine.
I have printed lock clips for coil pack connectors, plug wire guides, small electrical covers and sound tube defeat parts in ABS for example and all remain flexible.

Yeah, a lot of guys go through the trouble of decals and chrome items applied with 3M tape... badges, lettering... I’m imagining a fuse box cover with something three dimensional printed INTO the lid, as part of the lid. Like the name of the car, or a logo, like a large Camaro logo. Then painted red, white, and blue.

Originally Posted by DIYguy

Question though- What are you trying to achieve that is different than the cover you show?
If it is only a modification of the cover, the best thing to do might be to model and print the changed portion only and then attach it to a modified stock cover.

What do I do if I don’t want to ruin or modify the stock cover?

Originally Posted by DIYguy

Oh, and printing a finish like that is essentially impossible.

Again, what finish? I’ve seen 3D printing. I’m not sure what’s going on in the photos I attached that would indicate a desired finish that is unachievable. Are you talking about the slightly textured matte finish of the stock cover? The 3D printing I’ve witnessed can handle something very close to that, but I’m just looking for starters, to replace the cover... something I can drill into. I might just buy another cover... but fact finding dictated I think outside of that box. Like a blue box with a big 3D Superman logo molded into the top.

[GroundhogSS]

How much would a new cover cost from Chevy? Or maybe one from a junk yard.

[trublucamaro]

Originally Posted by GroundhogSS

How much would a new cover cost from Chevy? Or maybe one from a junk yard.

I’ve looked... (not gonna lie, not real hard), and have found the whole fuse block unit (for $160), so I would imagine that I can find one if I dig deeper. I just thought of possible applications of printing them... and other things, for those who customize their engine bays. A trip to CamaroFest and their car show will show a bunch of engine bay mods and dress up. I personally have a new placard I’m going to mount to that fuse box cover. I just don’t want to “modify” the stock one. I will keep looking for a cover, like you said, from a u-pull-it type salvage place, just the 3D printing option seemed like an opportunity to experiment. I figured maybe someone who loved a challenge and had 3D printing capabilities would like to tackle this and possibly other stuff for other people.

I feel like there is an untapped market in 3D printing custom pieces for car enthusiasts.

[24v]

How much would you be willing to pay for something like this 3d printed?
Also the stock part is only about $34.

[trublucamaro]

Originally Posted by 24v

How much would you be willing to pay for something like this 3d printed?
Also the stock part is only about $34.

...depends on the level of customization. Am I getting a color? Am I getting a 3D logo build into it, either raised, or recessed?

I'd be willing to pay for good work, but it depends on what we are talking about as far as customization.

If it's a basic 'black', no frills cover, used just to mount things to, so I don't have to drill holes in my stock cover then it would depend on what the creator wants for it. The more time he/she spend customizing the top with a built in design or something, then I'd expect to pay accordingly.

[bignaz]

Also you wanna watch out for fdm printers. Most are ju k hobby grade printers and you will get layer separation. Also most won't handle the heat under the hood. And has a glass transition of 105c or 221f. Even stuff like petg I have seen get soft and deform just being a part off to the side to keep a wireloom out of the way. Most of the stuff just won't hold up dispite what people with there $300 fdm printers will tell you. They just wanna make a quick buck. Best bet is SLA and use a high temp resin. I done parts like this and have had absolutely zero issues. For FDM you will need an industrial printer if you want it to last.


I have access to multiple printers. From laser sintintering for steel SLA for resn etc. I could do it but chances are it's going to be more then what you wanna pay since I change $90 an hour for cad/3d modeling. So it could get expensive if you want something custom. And really I don't take jobs for single parts as it's really not worth the time.


Just keep in mind under the hood is not a very forgiving environment. Not only do you have heat but vibration, thermal cycles etc. I just don't want you to pay for something then a month later have it crack or start to deform because someone decided that making a buck off you was more important then a quality part.

[trublucamaro]

Originally Posted by bignaz

Also you wanna watch out for fdm printers. Most are ju k hobby grade printers and you will get layer separation. Also most won't handle the heat under the hood. And has a glass transition of 105c or 221f. Even stuff like petg I have seen get soft and deform just being a part off to the side to keep a wireloom out of the way. Most of the stuff just won't hold up dispite what people with there $300 fdm printers will tell you. They just wanna make a quick buck. Best bet is SLA and use a high temp resin. I done parts like this and have had absolutely zero issues. For FDM you will need an industrial printer if you want it to last.


I have access to multiple printers. From laser sintintering for steel SLA for resn etc. I could do it but chances are it's going to be more then what you wanna pay since I change $90 an hour for cad/3d modeling. So it could get expensive if you want something custom. And really I don't take jobs for single parts as it's really not worth the time.


Just keep in mind under the hood is not a very forgiving environment. Not only do you have heat but vibration, thermal cycles etc. I just don't want you to pay for something then a month later have it crack or start to deform because someone decided that making a buck off you was more important then a quality part.

More than likely would not be a part I'd leave on. I'd attach it at car shows, etc... and then remove it for the stock cover for driving.

Thanks for the info. I guess if I could figure out the intricacies, it would be a matter of being able to customize the base design per order, and then crank them out for folks willing to pay for them. So yes, I agree that the initial layout and CAD work can be pricey... but what would the long term be. (redundant question)

I could do some internal engine bay temperature testing and figure out if that area even gets that warm. I'd probably go with overkill on resiliency in hot conditions, but it would be worth investigating the temps we are talking about. Especially now. It's hotter than hades here in Florida right now. I could go for an hour drive and probably get a good idea of the temps we are talking about experiencing. At least this conversation is now focused on the 'do-ability' versus the why, or what if.

[DIYguy]

I was away for a couple of days, sorry.

Yes what you want can definitely be done if printed slowly enough on a good enough machine and post-processed a bit for the finish.

I was only trying to set the right level of expectations and gather some information.
I have designed and produced 3D printed parts both using my own home printers and at work on $250k-$750k commercial printers for quite a few years.
Plus I have farmed out work to commercial 3D printers and printer farms on occasions when our machines were too busy.
So I can offer a passable grasp of the processes.

As bignaz stated quite well though, it won't be cheap if you have someone else design it and have it printed on a professional machine.

BTW, I have had ABS printed parts baking away under the hoods of a number of vehicles for very long periods of time (years in some cases and in places like Texas and Florida).
These include ducts, brackets, control boxes, ignition wire looms and coil pack lock tabs (think- hot).
Not even one of them has de-laminated, deformed or failed yet.
What do you think the original fuse cover is likely made of?

Just saying.

[trublucamaro]

Originally Posted by DIYguy

BTW, I have had ABS printed parts baking away under the hoods of a number of vehicles for very long periods of time (years in some cases and in places like Texas and Florida).
These include ducts, brackets, control boxes, ignition wire looms and coil pack lock tabs (think- hot).
Not even one of them has de-laminated, deformed or failed yet.
What do you think the original fuse cover is likely made of?

Just saying.

I'm assuming that's pointed at the other guy who mentioned heat. I have all the confidence in the world that a home 3d printer user can find a reasonable material to work with AND deal with the heat... in fact, heat is the LEAST of my concerns. I'd be more worried about the clips failing if not made of a worthy material. If that material is not worthy, then it would be as I mentioned, only used for static showing. Just saying.