[KeithO]

I have spent a little time searching this sub-forum and I get snips of information but it is more random than absolute. Dexos 2, DOT 4, etc.

Would it be possible to get a "sticky" thread in here that covers the items GM requires for warranty validity and also confirmed recommendations and observations based on experience? I am sure the knowledge is here, it is just not all in one place.

The reason I ask is I have agreed a deal to purchase a 2017 SS 1LE that I will track as soon as I pick it up, get it home and make the necessary preparations and fluid changes. I plan to pick the car up on Saturday and I am looking to purchase everything I need in advance so that the car can be ready ASAP.

Thanks.

[Move_Over]

There should be one in the glove box

[wnta1ss]

Here is the 2017 guide which has been posted before 2017-chevrolet-camaro-race-track-preparation-guide.pdf

One note on flushing the brakes with DOT4. The plumbing is weird, probably due to the ABS system. Order of brake bleeding that someone had posted, from the service manual, was like this:
right rear inner
right rear outer
left front inner
left front outer
left rear inner
left rear outer
right front inner
right front outer

[driven2exceSS]

Originally Posted by KeithO

"I have agreed a deal to purchase a 2017 SS 1LE that I will track as soon as I pick it up, get it home and make the necessary preparations and fluid changes.

Step#1: It may be very wise to get some, if not all, of the (1500) break-in miles on it too. To each their own I guess...

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by driven2exceSS

Step#1: It may be very wise to get some, if not all, of the (1500) break-in miles on it too. To each their own I guess...

I’d imagine most 2017’s will have over 1500 miles, unless he scored a gem

[driven2exceSS]

Originally Posted by Move_Over

I’d imagine most 2017’s will have over 1500 miles, unless he scored a gem

Hahaha!! YES, that is very true!! That will teach me to open computer before having my coffee!!! DISREGARD my useless 2cents!! Enjoy, and run the snot out of it immediately following said prep.

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

Here is the 2017 guide which has been posted before Attachment 990892

One note on flushing the brakes with DOT4. The plumbing is weird, probably due to the ABS system. Order of brake bleeding that someone had posted, from the service manual, was like this:
right rear inner
right rear outer
left front inner
left front outer
left rear inner
left rear outer
right front inner
right front outer

If you look at the plumbing we have 4 channel ABS so it doesn't matter which wheel you bleed first or last. Two main lines (Front/Rear) run to the ABS pump then it branches off into 4 separate lines.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by thescreensavers

If you look at the plumbing we have 4 channel ABS so it doesn't matter which wheel you bleed first or last. Two main lines (Front/Rear) run to the ABS pump then it branches off into 4 separate lines.

There must be a legitimate reason for that sequence being so clearly specified, else it'd be the usual 'start with the longest line, then the next longest line'. Wild-ass guess, but maybe the specific hydraulic circuitry inside the ABS HCU has something to do with it.


Norm

[KeithO]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

Here is the 2017 guide which has been posted before Attachment 990892

That would be it...

Interesting on the brake bleeding. Thanks.

[TrackClub]

1500 interval is a good point, in case the previous owner didnt track the car and never bothered to change main diff fluid. If in doubt do it before your first track day. Or do it anyway - i would. Plus fresh oil per the manual or my thread in Mechanical Section.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=552667

Id also flush tranny fluid.
Also do an alignment by maxing front on stock bolts (i got 2.6 and run 1.6 in the rear). Note you need a tech that knows what they are doing to achive it.
Good brake fluid completes the list. Cheers!

Heres words of wisdom from Ryephile on alignment:

Loosen the 2 strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts
-->Here's the important part that average shops can't seem to wrap their head around:
*Hammer the bolt a little bit to loosen it from the knuckle. Splines on the bolt OD grip the knuckle otherwise making the alignment nearly impossible. If you don't get the 2 strut bolts loose, the alignment isn't going to happen without...guess what...that stupid "adjustment bolt".
*adjust to taste - snug up strut bolts. You can choose to have the strut bolts "kinda snug" to hold the relationship until it's adjusted satisfactorily. The "adjustment bolt" can kind of help here, but it only limits movement in one direction, meaning the alignment can still drift the other way until the 2 strut bolts are snugged up.
*check alignment, torque strut bolts, verify alignment.

_________per Ryephile_________

Last edit re frequency:

I dump all fluids every 5-6 track days plus bleed brakes.
New brake fluid every start of the season.

[KeithO]

Just in case anyone is interested -

The bone stock 2017 SS 1LE I am buying has ~7,000 miles on it. The owner said that he needed to confirm with paperwork but he said he followed the recommended maintenance and I see that the recommendation is a diff fluid change at 1,500 (or maybe 500).

Regardless I have ordered all new fluids to replace everything on the car. These choices were just the quick and dirty ones that I knew would fulfill the requirements for warranty coverage. I get the car Saturday and I want all of the fluids for when I get the car.

Later I will figure out what Amsoil products (Red Line's website didn't recommend any fluids for this car other than water wetter?!) might work and I definitely need to research the current Castrol SRF brake fluid. The current stuff doesn't look like the stuff that I used to buy ~10 years ago so I want to know if it is the same as before. The old SRF lasted all season - +50 sessions with no bleeding and no changes on the LS1 4th Gen brake setup. I did this for multiple seasons with very good luck. I hate bleeding brakes, especially at the track.

Here is what I bought in a hurry:
Valvoline MST 5W40 (engine), AC Delco 88861800 (tranny), Valvoline VV975 (diff), Motul 660 (brakes), K&N Oil Filter HP-1017.

I fly out to the seller's town to pick the car up early Saturday morning and plan to drive it back home the same day. From there, I need to register it in PA, get a PA inspection and emissions check, adjust the alignment and change over all the fluids. In a perfect world, I will be able to run a local SCCA "Track Night in America" on June 22. In this world something will pop up and stop this but I am going to try.

Thanks for the tip on the alignment. Every little bit helps.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by KeithO

Just in case anyone is interested -

The bone stock 2017 SS 1LE I am buying has ~7,000 miles on it. The owner said that he needed to confirm with paperwork but he said he followed the recommended maintenance and I see that the recommendation is a diff fluid change at 1,500 (or maybe 500).

Regardless I have ordered all new fluids to replace everything on the car. These choices were just the quick and dirty ones that I knew would fulfill the requirements for warranty coverage. I get the car Saturday and I want all of the fluids for when I get the car.

Later I will figure out what Amsoil products (Red Line's website didn't recommend any fluids for this car other than water wetter?!) might work and I definitely need to research the current Castrol SRF brake fluid. The current stuff doesn't look like the stuff that I used to buy ~10 years ago so I want to know if it is the same as before. The old SRF lasted all season - +50 sessions with no bleeding and no changes on the LS1 4th Gen brake setup. I did this for multiple seasons with very good luck. I hate bleeding brakes, especially at the track.

Here is what I bought in a hurry:
Valvoline MST 5W40 (engine), AC Delco 88861800 (tranny), Valvoline VV975 (diff), Motul 660 (brakes), K&N Oil Filter HP-1017.

I fly out to the seller's town to pick the car up early Saturday morning and plan to drive it back home the same day. From there, I need to register it in PA, get a PA inspection and emissions check, adjust the alignment and change over all the fluids. In a perfect world, I will be able to run a local SCCA "Track Night in America" on June 22. In this world something will pop up and stop this but I am going to try.

Thanks for the tip on the alignment. Every little bit helps.

Congrats on the purchase, hope the transfer goes well and youll get to enjoy her on a track soon!
Note regular fluid maint intervals per the manual are very different, so if the prev owner never tracked the car - the chances are some are still original. Anyhow, looks like you got a good plan going!

An extra point on brake fluid: SRF seems by far the best, most durable, per general feedback here incl official stats. Many bleed it mid season. Never heard of anyone having to bleed at the track. Ive been running cheap Willwood 570 with zero issues, but switching to SRF this season because ive bought some... Pretty much anything else will do as long as you run stock Ferodo pads (check their condition btw!) which dont put out tons of heat. If you go with higher torgue pads, running SRF makes good sense, if only for peace of mind.
Hope your transfer goes well!

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by KeithO

Here is what I bought in a hurry:
Valvoline MST 5W40 (engine), AC Delco 88861800 (tranny), Valvoline VV975 (diff), Motul 660 (brakes), K&N Oil Filter HP-1017.

Wrong oil filter, you need a filter with the proper bypass PSI spec. Your options are OEM PF64, Fram xg102060 and Wix WL10290.


Also for rear diff fluid I haven't been following what "afternarket fluid" people have been using but we have clutch discs in the bath, OEM fluid has the appropriate modifiers in it already. GM 10-4034

[KeithO]

Originally Posted by thescreensavers

Wrong oil filter, you need a filter with the proper bypass PSI spec. Your options are OEM PF64, Fram xg102060 and Wix WL10290.


Also for rear diff fluid I haven't been following what "afternarket fluid" people have been using but we have clutch discs in the bath, OEM fluid has the appropriate modifiers in it already. GM 10-4034

Thanks for the sanity check. I ordered a PF64.

As far as the gear oil is concerned, this oil has the friction modifier in it:

https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pd...nformation.pdf