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Old 12-07-2018, 07:59 AM   #1
Cupahaters
 
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Trailering your car

For those of you who trailer your car. I am looking to buy a trailer. Have you found that the front of the car drags on the ramps? If so how did you fix that.

Thanks
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:25 AM   #2
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I have purchased a set of race ramps to assist in loading on my trailer. I haven't used them yet, as now I am concerned my trailer isn't wide enough. It is a featherlite aluminum trailer, but it is only 79" wide.
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Old 12-07-2018, 09:01 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis104 View Post
I have purchased a set of race ramps to assist in loading on my trailer. I haven't used them yet, as now I am concerned my trailer isn't wide enough. It is a featherlite aluminum trailer, but it is only 79" wide.
That's the only way really, long race ramps. Mine gets very close at the bottom of the ramp right when the wheel gets on pavement. Good luck!
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Old 12-07-2018, 09:34 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Hellobatman View Post
That's the only way really, long race ramps. Mine gets very close at the bottom of the ramp right when the wheel gets on pavement. Good luck!
How wide is your trailer?
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Old 12-07-2018, 09:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis104 View Post
How wide is your trailer?

Unfortunately I'm not sure. I don't have it accessible currently. Sorry
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Old 12-07-2018, 09:59 AM   #6
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I would strongly encourage you to look at a trailer with e-track embedded in the floor AT THE CORRECT WIDTH! I have an H&H Speedloader EX. It is a hydraulic tilt trailer. I needed to use Race Ramps to get on the trailer. Once on, I realized the factory installed e-track wasn't wide enough. I added another row of e-track to use Mac's Custom Tie Downs.

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/pr...e-Block-Straps

I ordered the set for use with e-track. Not cheap, but great quality and great product. Easy to use! I was struggling with axle straps and didn't want to loop through the wheel. Further in the 1LE sub-forum, I read about a few who claimed strapping down with ZL1 Addons or using the suspension wasn't optimal. Further, I couldn't find a decent point to anchor the rear.

With enough space, the Mac's setup above is super low profile and the rachet mechanism is in the clear in front of, or behind the car.
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Old 12-07-2018, 10:01 AM   #7
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If it's a very close fit with your current ramps, a 2' long 2x6 under the ramp may be enough to get the job done. Tire rolls up on the 2x6 first, then onto the ramp.

Think this, but use only one layer if needed:

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Old 12-07-2018, 10:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodan View Post
If it's a very close fit with your current ramps, a 2' long 2x6 under the ramp may be enough to get the job done. Tire rolls up on the 2x6 first, then onto the ramp.

Think this, but use only one layer if needed:

This is what I have done in the past with my previous cars. I no longer have a trailer but this is what I would do. Cheap and easy fix
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Old 12-07-2018, 11:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis104 View Post
I have purchased a set of race ramps to assist in loading on my trailer. I haven't used them yet, as now I am concerned my trailer isn't wide enough. It is a featherlite aluminum trailer, but it is only 79" wide.
I believe I might have the same trailer. It fits but I dont feel comfortable loading by myself.

Quote:
The 2018 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 1LE measures 74.70 inches in width, 188.30 inches in length, and has a wheelbase of 110.70 inches.
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Old 12-07-2018, 11:48 AM   #10
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I believe I might have the same trailer. It fits but I dont feel comfortable loading by myself.
I don’t think I would feel comfortable loading by myself either. I have some additional anchor points on the outside of the trailer, and the head of the bolts are on the inside rail, so it is actually about 78.5” wide. How close is it on the sides? I’m guessing after you remove the fender, there aren’t any issues opening the door?
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Old 12-07-2018, 02:09 PM   #11
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I put the red loading blocks back in the front. They are shipped like that for extra loading height.
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:32 AM   #12
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I used to use the multiple pieces of wood method which was cheap but problematic. I had to haul all that wood with me to events, plus my gear and it took a little more time putting all my blocks together.

I bought race ramps ( https://raceramps.com ). I used the calculator on their website and that worked out well. No scraping even for my 2010 GT3, which was much lower than the ZL1 with longer overhangs. Little pricey but works well, saves damage on your cars (which can be pricey also), and well made.
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Old 12-09-2018, 07:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis104 View Post
I don’t think I would feel comfortable loading by myself either. I have some additional anchor points on the outside of the trailer, and the head of the bolts are on the inside rail, so it is actually about 78.5” wide. How close is it on the sides? I’m guessing after you remove the fender, there aren’t any issues opening the door?
Didnt measure but only like 1.5 inches on each side..Its tight. But it works. So.. I will go with it.
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Old 12-09-2018, 09:01 PM   #14
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I have a Featherlite 18' trailer which works perfectly with race ramps and the ramps included with the trailer. I do nothing other than drive on and strap down. I leave the spring spacers out too.
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