[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by Saybo

The old wives' tale says you should change it before you store it because the acids in used oil will eat away your engine block. However, with modern oil, the TBA will neutralize any byproducts left over from combustion as long as it's not at its end of life cycle.

Small correction, it's TBN, Total Base Number. The basicity of the oil.

Otherwise, you're spot-on.

[Snrub]

I should clarify my oil time comment - the manual does not specify a specific time. It does say to respect what the car tells you.

If you use Tire Rack's info listed for these tires:
...Extreme Performance Summer tires are not intended to be serviced, stored nor driven in near-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice.
I thought I recall reading other specific numbers that were different from the 40F/20F info mentioned.

For the regular SS the restrictions/best practices are different.

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by Snrub

I should clarify my oil time comment - the manual does not specify a specific time. It does say to respect what the car tells you.

If you use Tire Rack's info listed for these tires:
...Extreme Performance Summer tires are not intended to be serviced, stored nor driven in near-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice.
I thought I recall reading other specific numbers that were different from the 40F/20F info mentioned.

For the regular SS the restrictions/best practices are different.

Oops, my bad. I remembered incorrectly. Went back and checked myself against the manual. It also recommends not storing in temps below 20°F...

[loljunk_]

Thanks for the help everyone! In she goes for the winter. We got another 2 inches of snow last night lol.

Originally Posted by lgarrison34

Why not change the oil yourself?

I need to keep my track warranty for next year in case i throw a rod through the block. Don't need to give GM an edge not to honor the track warranty.

Originally Posted by Ryephile

Given the options, leave the oil until spring. However I did get a chuckle from the irony of your concern with regard to your signature.

Haha i have good reason for the oil concern. I just got done paying off my subaru wrx engine last month (a car i don't even own anymore) for spinning a bearing due to oil deprivation. $6,000 with labor. Not trying to buy a $10,000 LT1 lol. As for the salt, yea you are right, I am being overly cautions about that haha. Sometimes I do care about the car more than I should. I still gotta work on that haha.

[metros11]

Store the car. Next spring, before firing it up, change the oil yourself. Thats actually the best way to approach it as it will allow all the old oil to drain to the bottom of the pan as it sits there.

[mdhopt36]

I live off a scenic highway, around 300 foot long driveway.
Salt has chewed up 2-plus truck frames since I've lived here.
Salt literally petrifies me; especially when they went from CaCl2 to NaCl rocksalt.
That dayam rocksalt appears 3-4x worse than CaCl2, my opinion.
_______
Then, there's the thing about running an engine, and getting it good and hot during winter months enough to keep any infiltration of water vapor at bay, or from short term running from combustion.
No easy solution???
Wait 'till January thaw, and run the pee out of it???
************
They salt the roads so much around here, they are as white as snow, and blows around especially with a trucker's rig.

[hotlap]

I see the Dealer working on your car as a much greater risk than driving it on the dirty roads. Half filled crank case, door chips/dings and crushed rocker panels are all real possibilities when trusting a dealer

[Bigdog9586]

Let’s see, do I drive my $35,000 Camero or do I store it and drive my $70,000 SUV? It’s just a damn car. It will never be worth more than it is today and when you sell it if you’ve taken care of it you will get no more undriven in snow or driven in snow.

[Nabush]

Modern cars are meant to be driven year round, frames have the necessary protection to withstand salt, winter driving is part of GM testing, as it is for all cars manufacturers around the world.

[Camaro85]

Originally Posted by Bigdog9586

Let’s see, do I drive my $35,000 Camero or do I store it and drive my $70,000 SUV? It’s just a damn car. It will never be worth more than it is today and when you sell it if you’ve taken care of it you will get no more undriven in snow or driven in snow.

Exactly. Let me store my $20,000 mass produced car so I can drive my brand new 80,000 fully loaded truck sorry but these cars are meant to be driven. it all lies in how well you take care of the car. Mine is a DD that's been through 3 winters, and you can't tell because I detail it all the time.

[SnakeEyeSS]

Originally Posted by mdhopt36

I live off a scenic highway, around 300 foot long driveway.
Salt has chewed up 2-plus truck frames since I've lived here.
Salt literally petrifies me; especially when they went from CaCl2 to NaCl rocksalt.
That dayam rocksalt appears 3-4x worse than CaCl2, my opinion.
_______
Then, there's the thing about running an engine, and getting it good and hot during winter months enough to keep any infiltration of water vapor at bay, or from short term running from combustion.
No easy solution???
Wait 'till January thaw, and run the pee out of it???
************
They salt the roads so much around here, they are as white as snow, and blows around especially with a trucker's rig.

If I'm not mistaken, they don't use "salt" up there, it's " salt brine" (sodium chloride), which is very corrosive. Cities claim it's not that corossive, but read about repair shops in places that have used it for years and how fast the cars degrade. (It's effective and less work, so of course they will use it)

But if you have to drive, you have to drive.

[SnakeEyeSS]

Originally Posted by Bigdog9586

Let’s see, do I drive my $35,000 Camero or do I store it and drive my $70,000 SUV? It’s just a damn car. It will never be worth more than it is today and when you sell it if you’ve taken care of it you will get no more undriven in snow or driven in snow.

What's a Camero?

[Silverado57]

Originally Posted by SnakeEyeSS

If I'm not mistaken, they don't use "salt" up there, it's " salt brine" (sodium chloride), which is very corrosive. Cities claim it's not that corossive, but read about repair shops in places that have used it for years and how fast the cars degrade. (It's effective and less work, so of course they will use it)

But if you have to drive, you have to drive.

Depending on the location, some places use brine and some use rock salt/gravel. Small municipalities are mostly still using the rock salt/gravel mix while county, state and interstate roads sometimes get brine. Either way, they suck.

[17rsvert]

Originally Posted by Nabush

Modern cars are meant to be driven year round, frames have the necessary protection to withstand salt, winter driving is part of GM testing, as it is for all cars manufacturers around the world.

Don't kid yourself.Modern car external parts have the necessary protection to withstand a minimum number of hours in a salt spray chamber. That's pretty much a standard in the auto industry. The hours required are basically to get the customer past the warrantee period without issue. I don't care how good a car looks up-top from being detailed consistantly through 3 salt-filled winters, the clock is ticking on all the components under the car. There's very little stainless steel used, so the regular steel is either electro-plated or painted. Electro-plating has a life span dependent on how much galvanic reaction it sees, like from salt water, and when paint chips, salt water attacks immediatly. So it really comes down to how long to you plan on keeping the car. Selling it in less than 5 or 6 years? No problem. Want to keep it 10 or more? I'll bet you can see the difference underneath immediatly between a car driven in salt and one that wasn't. Ask any mechanic which 15 year old car is easier to work on underneath: one driven in snowy northern winters or one from south florida.