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Old 08-29-2018, 11:00 AM   #29
Yendor
 
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Don't forget to wash it nice and clean before you store it as well. If your car cover can rub your car from a little wind, and cause scratches, it would scratch it just putting it on. You have the wrong car cover. I have a 5th Gen car cover that fits nice and tight and will be on my car again this winter.

A car on jack stands is bad for the suspension, the suspension was designed to be compressed by the cars weight, the sagging of the suspension isn't beneficial. That and flat spotting tires, like others have said, goes away quickly on a drive.
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Old 08-29-2018, 01:03 PM   #30
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no not from driving on them. iv seen it. and concrete sucks the oils out of the rubber. might not be a problem if you have to replace tires every few years. but best to put patches of wood or carpet under them.
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Old 08-29-2018, 03:32 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmax View Post
Snow bird....
What’s up with using plywood under the tires? Dryer sheets? I have a vert with leather interior and will store it from first frost to mid March. I am paranoid mostly about rodents getting in my attached garage, but not too worried about a dead battery...
I had a 67 Camaro that I had been storing two winters, and in both spring start ups, it fired right up.
I live in farm country mice are an issue
The wood insulates the rubber from the cold concrete
I dont want my car charging when I aw 16pp miles from home
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Old 09-04-2018, 09:44 AM   #32
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I've stored my last 3 Camaro's during the mid-Michigan winters over the past eight years - normal SS's and 1LE. Just complete your oil change at the end of the season, give it one nice end of the year detail and add some fuel stabilizer into a full tank of gas. You won't see salt until Mid December most likely and you will drive in 40+ degree days until then. Realistically, you'll have it out towards the end of March. The 3-4 month sitting time is not going to require you to go over the hill with preventive measures.

Your new oil that you put in prior to winter storage, it does NOT need to be changed again in the late winter/spring. As for the tires, I've never had any issues with the cars just sitting in the garage like any normal day.
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Old 10-09-2018, 08:24 AM   #33
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Ok this is what time thinking to do in Michigan in my unheated storage unit:
-change oil
-detail car
-add fuel stabilizer
-tires to 40psi
-disconnect Neg cable
-indoor car cover
-crack windows an inch
-place in CarBag CarJacket
-never see again until spring time

Then oil and everything is fine and the car is ready to go in the Spring

Any issues with this?

Last edited by artey34; 10-09-2018 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 10-09-2018, 12:02 PM   #34
orange blaze
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winter storage

Here is what I have done the last 5 years.
detail car
gas up
fuel stabilizer
change oil if necessary
carpet under the tires
trickle charge battery till done
inflate tires to 40 psi
steel wool in exhaust tips
fabric softener in trunk, hood, front and back footwells
moisture absorbant bags in trunk, hood and front and back footwells
put on indoor cover
let the baby sleep all winter
has worked for me but I am sure there are many different ways to do this.
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Old 10-09-2018, 12:11 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by MSU120 View Post
I’m in the same boat.....I plan to let her sit, in the garage. I’ll start once a week and let it warm up. Not doing anything special.
Worst thing you can do is start the car. creates moisture that will not get burnt out of the system. battery tender and forget it.

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Old 10-09-2018, 12:23 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by nelsont View Post
Worst thing you can do is start the car. creates moisture that will not get burnt out of the system. battery tender and forget it.

Tim
Agreed!~ It's metal and doesn't need exercising. It takes a very long time to get 10 quarts of oil up to temp to burn off moisture caused by cold start ups.
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Old 10-09-2018, 12:47 PM   #37
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If you do start it, let it run for an hour or two, then you'll be good

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Old 10-09-2018, 03:10 PM   #38
artey34
 
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I can't put a charger in it because it's in a storage unit an the car bag is fully sealed. So I assume pulling the neg cable is ok.

Regarding oil change, I will have about 1500 miles on the oil. Is that ok? Do you change it immediately in the spring?
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Old 10-09-2018, 03:15 PM   #39
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your oil will be fine. no need to change it in the spring. if it was at the end of its life i would change it but 1500 miles on oil is nothing
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Old 10-09-2018, 06:34 PM   #40
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Winterizing 1LE

I leave my car in Upstate NY for 6-7 months (Nov to June). I disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, put an extra 3 lbs in the tires, fill the tank and add Stabil, drive it for 10-15 miles to circulate the Stabil, put steel wool in the exhaust tips, put Bounce dryer sheets in both footwells,trunk and engine compartment, cover it and go!!
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:35 PM   #41
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Do not crank the windows, do this...

Quote:
Originally Posted by orange blaze View Post
moisture absorbant bags in trunk, hood and front and back footwells
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