Turn Rotors

Ranch41 · 09-30-2018, 09:05 PM

I replaced my OE brake pads with Z26 pads. I had the rear rotors turned but the fronts were too large for Riebes and the local tire shop. I had them inspected by my local Chevy dealership and the lead tech said it wasn’t necessary. I have 8K on a new 2018 ZL1. No grooves or marks in the rotors from my OE pads.

Another tire shop said $180 to turn them on the mobile lathe, rotors still attached to hub. Anyone hear of this and thoughts regarding not turning rotors?

TJay74 · 09-30-2018, 09:51 PM

If I dont have grooves that can be felt and seen and as long as the rotors dont feel warped under braking then I put the new pads on them and burnish them in per the manufacture spec.

Ranch41 · 09-30-2018, 10:32 PM

No grooves or warpage but I’m going from the OE pads to carbon-ceramic pads. I was told it was a matter of embedding the carbon-ceramic material into the rotors.

Alpha1BC · 10-01-2018, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranch41

No grooves or warpage but I’m going from the OE pads to carbon-ceramic pads. I was told it was a matter of embedding the carbon-ceramic material into the rotors.

Correct. No need to turn the rotors, just put the new pads on and burnish them per the instruction from Powerstop.

glenB · 10-01-2018, 08:14 PM

Whoa tilt .......

You can turn them on the car but it would be better, if you're inclined, to go to a machine shop. Most places won't have the extended shaft to turn them on an AMMCO brake lathe.

As everybody said, it doesn't sound like you really need them turned. Get a minimum of 60 grit, preferably the coarser the better. Wrap a sheet around a hand size 2X4 or a block sander and clean the rotor surface of the old pad material. Do a cross hatch as best as possible. Use a mild grit, like 220 and clean the inner and outer hat faces. Clean the hub with a wire brush.

When done wash the rotors with dish soap and dry. Now, I prefer to Gunk Squeal Medic, it's a spray, like aluminum paint, but it's not. Spray the rotor surface, I actually spray the whole rotor assy. I spray the rotor face heavy, and then let it dry for about 5-10 minutes and then lightly wipe off the excess, leaving the surface silver looking. After you've cleaned the hub you can spray the Gunk on the hub to resist rust, works well for that.

For the backside of the pad, the factory uses none, but they have a nice backing. On the Z26 pads I use a Mercedes compound. It's like an electrical grease and a moly mixed together.also clean the calipers where the end of the pads ride and then grease them and the ends of the pads.

When you break the pads in be gentle until the gunk has worn in/off and then have at it. The first few times you'll be cussing because it won't stop for diddly and you'll think I lied. It will also cause the pads to clunk, but wear in the Gunk and the stopping power will come back and then do your stops.

As an aside, the Z26 pads don't have the stopping power of the factory pads.

PolynesianPowerhouse · 10-02-2018, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

Correct. No need to turn the rotors, just put the new pads on and burnish them per the instruction from Powerstop.

Ranch41 · 10-07-2018, 09:20 PM

So I wipe the front rotors and burnished. During the burnishing I think I heated them up pretty good as I was getting a little feedback. Once cooled they smoothed out and feel similar to stock as far as stopping is concerned. I do not think they would be good for track or auto-x duty though.

09-30-2018, 09:05 PM	#1
Ranch41 Drives: 2011 Z06 Carbon & 2018 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 62	Turn Rotors I replaced my OE brake pads with Z26 pads. I had the rear rotors turned but the fronts were too large for Riebes and the local tire shop. I had them inspected by my local Chevy dealership and the lead tech said it wasn’t necessary. I have 8K on a new 2018 ZL1. No grooves or marks in the rotors from my OE pads. Another tire shop said $180 to turn them on the mobile lathe, rotors still attached to hub. Anyone hear of this and thoughts regarding not turning rotors?

09-30-2018, 09:51 PM	#2
TJay74 Drives: 17 Camaro SS 1LE & 16 Sierra AT CC Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Norman, OK Posts: 2,424	If I dont have grooves that can be felt and seen and as long as the rotors dont feel warped under braking then I put the new pads on them and burnish them in per the manufacture spec. __________________ 2019 Corvette Z06 2LZ A8 - Halltech CAI, AWE non-catted X-pipe, Mamo V2 ported TB 592rwhp, bone stock 566rwhp 2017 Camaro SS 1LE - Procharger D1SC w/ Tial 2" BOV & Race intercooler / ARH full length catless headers / Alky meth injection system - 650rwhp on conservative tune SOLD

09-30-2018, 10:32 PM	#3
Ranch41 Drives: 2011 Z06 Carbon & 2018 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 62	No grooves or warpage but I’m going from the OE pads to carbon-ceramic pads. I was told it was a matter of embedding the carbon-ceramic material into the rotors.

10-01-2018, 08:14 PM	#5
glenB Drives: Chevrolet Camaro SS Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 721	Whoa tilt ....... You can turn them on the car but it would be better, if you're inclined, to go to a machine shop. Most places won't have the extended shaft to turn them on an AMMCO brake lathe. As everybody said, it doesn't sound like you really need them turned. Get a minimum of 60 grit, preferably the coarser the better. Wrap a sheet around a hand size 2X4 or a block sander and clean the rotor surface of the old pad material. Do a cross hatch as best as possible. Use a mild grit, like 220 and clean the inner and outer hat faces. Clean the hub with a wire brush. When done wash the rotors with dish soap and dry. Now, I prefer to Gunk Squeal Medic, it's a spray, like aluminum paint, but it's not. Spray the rotor surface, I actually spray the whole rotor assy. I spray the rotor face heavy, and then let it dry for about 5-10 minutes and then lightly wipe off the excess, leaving the surface silver looking. After you've cleaned the hub you can spray the Gunk on the hub to resist rust, works well for that. For the backside of the pad, the factory uses none, but they have a nice backing. On the Z26 pads I use a Mercedes compound. It's like an electrical grease and a moly mixed together.also clean the calipers where the end of the pads ride and then grease them and the ends of the pads. When you break the pads in be gentle until the gunk has worn in/off and then have at it. The first few times you'll be cussing because it won't stop for diddly and you'll think I lied. It will also cause the pads to clunk, but wear in the Gunk and the stopping power will come back and then do your stops. As an aside, the Z26 pads don't have the stopping power of the factory pads.

10-07-2018, 09:20 PM	#7
Ranch41 Drives: 2011 Z06 Carbon & 2018 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 62	So I wipe the front rotors and burnished. During the burnishing I think I heated them up pretty good as I was getting a little feedback. Once cooled they smoothed out and feel similar to stock as far as stopping is concerned. I do not think they would be good for track or auto-x duty though.

User Name		Remember Me?
Password