[1LE Red Dragon]

So a couple of questions regarding this method.

1. You can easily get the torch to the bolt head to heat up properly? (assume this is yes, based on the fact it worked.

2. Once you get the bolt out, you have room to seat the puller in properly with the limited space with the fan still in place???

3. Assuming 2 is correct. All the other work with the AC belt, and regular drive belt can be done easily with the limited working space?

4. Lastly, when torquing the bolt back to factory specs. Do you do the same. Put car in 4th gear with the E-brake on, and torque back to the factory specs using a torque wrench and 140 degrees after?

[TMS]

Originally Posted by 1LE Red Dragon

So a couple of questions regarding this method.

1. You can easily get the torch to the bolt head to heat up properly? (assume this is yes, based on the fact it worked.

2. Once you get the bolt out, you have room to seat the puller in properly with the limited space with the fan still in place???

3. Assuming 2 is correct. All the other work with the AC belt, and regular drive belt can be done easily with the limited working space?

4. Lastly, when torquing the bolt back to factory specs. Do you do the same. Put car in 4th gear with the E-brake on, and torque back to the factory specs using a torque wrench and 140 degrees after?

1. Yes. I heated more of the bolt flange (round and round) not the head directly. It won't need a lot of heat. Don't over do it. You can always go back with more heat.

2. Doubtful with the fan installed. But I don't know for sure as my fan assembly was removed.

3. See #2.

4. Caution - The OEM bolt is a torque to yield (TTY), I believe. It's a one and done. If you are going to use the factory style bolt then purchase a new one and torque to spec as per GM guidelines. However, I used an ARP crank bolt and followed torque instructions on the ATI super Damper.

[1LE Red Dragon]

Originally Posted by TMS

1. Yes. I heated more of the bolt flange (round and round) not the head directly. It won't need a lot of heat. Don't over do it. You can always go back with more heat.

2. Doubtful with the fan installed. But I don't know for sure as my fan assembly was removed.

3. See #2.

4. Caution - The OEM bolt is a torque to yield (TTY), I believe. It's a one and done. If you are going to use the factory style bolt then purchase a new one and torque to spec as per GM guidelines. However, I used an ARP crank bolt and followed torque instructions on the ATI super Damper.

I bought the ATI damper bolt 951499. I know the OEM is a one use fastener. They question is can you use the 4th gear and E brake method to fix the crank so you can torque to GM spec?

[TMS]

Originally Posted by 1LE Red Dragon

I bought the ATI damper bolt 951499. I know the OEM is a one use fastener. They question is can you use the 4th gear and E brake method to fix the crank so you can torque to GM spec?

Yes on the E-brake and 4th or even 5th gear. No on GM spec. I used ATI/ARP spec since the ARP bolt is not a TTY OEM bolt. Both are tight as hell and I'm guessing either spec would be fine, but I felt more comfortable torqing based on the type of bolt used along with the damper used.

If the ATI bolt you reference is a TTY bolt and is basically the factory bolt then I would use the factory spec. I used a different bolt so my comments are referencing that.

[djfury05]

When using an OEM bolt or the ATI 951499 bolt are you guys using sealant like the factory did?


Been wanting to install my ATI damper and pulley for awhile now but there is no definitive guide out there. EFDHobbies write up is decent but leaves a lot to be desired. I don't want any hang ups when I get going on it.


I bought the piece that locks the flex plate in place after you remove the starter for torquing the new balancer bolt down. Figure that's the safest way IMO.

[1LE Red Dragon]

Hopefully by the time this thread dies we will have enough pictures and details of the process. And different methods of doing it. I don't think it calls for any sealant. There is an orange looking material on the flange of the new crank bolt.

[TMS]

Originally Posted by 1LE Red Dragon

Hopefully by the time this thread dies we will have enough pictures and details of the process. And different methods of doing it. I don't think it calls for any sealant. There is an orange looking material on the flange of the new crank bolt.

The orange stuff is the sealant.

[TMS]

Originally Posted by djfury05

When using an OEM bolt or the ATI 951499 bolt are you guys using sealant like the factory did?


Been wanting to install my ATI damper and pulley for awhile now but there is no definitive guide out there. EFDHobbies write up is decent but leaves a lot to be desired. I don't want any hang ups when I get going on it.


I bought the piece that locks the flex plate in place after you remove the starter for torquing the new balancer bolt down. Figure that's the safest way IMO.

I too bought the flex plate lock but didn't use it after all. Worked fine in gear and E-Brake set. Certainly, it would give the most positive lock of the engine but I went the short cut route. Which given the number of days (2 weeks) to do this project, dropping the starter would have been nothing to do.

As for sealant. I initially did not. I had the slightest weep of oil coming out of the key way. So I pulled the bolt back off and used some RTV silicone and dabbed the key way. Bolt went back in, torqued it down and no weep.

[1LE Red Dragon]

Originally Posted by TMS

I too bought the flex plate lock but didn't use it after all. Worked fine in gear and E-Brake set. Certainly, it would give the most positive lock of the engine but I went the short cut route. Which given the number of days (2 weeks) to do this project, dropping the starter would have been nothing to do.

As for sealant. I initially did not. I had the slightest weep of oil coming out of the key way. So I pulled the bolt back off and used some RTV silicone and dabbed the key way. Bolt went back in, torqued it down and no weep.

How did you get the bolt back out this time? Cheater bar or drain the coolant and remove the fan assembly?

With all these troubles. Stock boost is starting to sound better and better every minute.

[TMS]

Originally Posted by 1LE Red Dragon

How did you get the bolt back out this time? Cheater bar or drain the coolant and remove the fan assembly?

With all these troubles. Stock boost is starting to sound better and better every minute.

Easy. First, I got rid of the TTY bolt. Second, there was no adhesive under the head of the new bolt. Glad I went with the ARP crank bolt. I think that's why I didn't have any fits removing it. Those TTY bolts stretch to set them and then they are under constant tension (I guess that's why they are so difficult to remove). Just did the cheater bar and it broke loose fine. No heat. Easy Peasy.

[TMS]

With the 9.17" pulley, I peak at 14.1 psi boost now. For me the hassle was worth it, and I'd gladly do it again.

[1LE Red Dragon]

Originally Posted by TMS

With the 9.17" pulley, I peak at 14.1 psi boost now. For me the hassle was worth it, and I'd gladly do it again.

Well I'm glad it was worth all the effort. By the way I have a HP tuners as well how much was the remote JRE tune?

[TMS]

Originally Posted by 1LE Red Dragon

Well I'm glad it was worth all the effort. By the way I have a HP tuners as well how much was the remote JRE tune?

I give all of my related business to Ted. In return, no charge for the tuning. Yep, free. But I keep buying all my parts from him. Datalog after datalog, he just keeps refining and tweaking until it is all sorted and optimized. It is NOT a canned tune. And his tune is absolutely fantastic. The off idle and tip-in driveability is actually better than factory stock was.

I can't say enough about his shop and service. I can understand why some people ship their cars to him from long distances.

[Camaro#7]

Agreed on JRE 100%. I am working with him right now on my Lower Pulley, ARH header install and we have been running data on it to get it perfect for a month now. Ted is always very quick to respond. I should end up in the 650HP/650TQ range with mine when we are done.