[Whitespeed]

Originally Posted by S2K+1LE

Yes you can, it's intrinsic to the design.

If you're happy with them, cool... but you can see the adhesive from the side.

Not on a white 1LE

[Whitespeed]

Originally Posted by S2K+1LE

I would avoid the ZL1Addons rock guards mentioned in the OP. The 3M tape is fully visible from the sides of the vehicle, and it collects dirt and grit right up until the point the heat causes it to fail and you have the stupid piece of plastic flopping around on your car. Avoid.

You've had this happen? How long did it take?

The primary issue I have with the ZL1Addons rock guards is that they don't go low enough to be as effective as they could be.

Nigel

[jebfour]

Originally Posted by DaggerMouth

Adam's Saude microfiber brush. A must to maintain the steeling wheel and knob.

Can you put up a link to this product? I've done a few internet/Amazon searches but I'm not sure that what keeps coming up is the right product.

[S2K+1LE]

Originally Posted by Whitespeed

Not on a white 1LE

The adhesive is black, it is particularly noticeable on a white vehicle.

[S2K+1LE]

Originally Posted by Whitespeed

You've had this happen? How long did it take?

The primary issue I have with the ZL1Addons rock guards is that they don't go low enough to be as effective as they could be.

Nigel

Took about 5 weeks, driver's side released on the highway and was destroyed by the tire while damaging the paint work. Passenger side was just hanging there.

All instructions were followed, everything was cleaned meticulously before installation, and this isn't a unique situation. Manufacturer did not offer assistance with damages.

[Whitespeed]

Originally Posted by S2K+1LE

The adhesive is black, it is particularly noticeable on a white vehicle.

It's white on mine. Hardly noticeable unless you get right up close.

Originally Posted by S2K+1LE

Took about 5 weeks, driver's side released on the highway and was destroyed by the tire while damaging the paint work. Passenger side was just hanging there.

All instructions were followed, everything was cleaned meticulously before installation, and this isn't a unique situation. Manufacturer did not offer assistance with damages.

I installed mine in November last year. 5000 miles on them so far. Multiple car washes, and repeated speeds over 130MPH.

Maybe they shipped some out with the wrong double sided tape applied, since it looks like we got different types, based on the colour?

Nigel

[Ventura 1LE]

+1
Congrats on the 1LE..

Originally Posted by pbsinternet1le

Bed the brakes.. change oil at 1500 miles and diff.people will say not needed...just do it..clear bra the front. If you track it max the front alignment at -2.4 and rear at -1.5. The dealer will tell you you are crazy.. change brake fluid to dot 4 and change trans fluid at 1500miles or so..

[Whitespeed]

GM really muddied the waters on recommended break-in and service intervals.

To summarize from the various manuals:

First Oil Change - 500 miles
Track motor oil - Mobil1 0W40 Dexos 2 ESP (factory fill for the Corvette)
Keep RPM below 4000 - 500 miles (minimum)
Differential Oil Change - Before and After first track event
Bed in Brakes - Before first track event
Dot 4 Fluid - Before first track event (Castrol SRF - expensive but worth it!)
Track alignment- Before first track event
Miles before first track event - minimum 1500 miles

I wouldn't go longer than 500 miles for the first oil change, and don't skip the diff oil changes.

Camaro Race Track Preparation Guide.pdf

High Performance Owners Manual Supplement.pdf

[JD_]

Originally Posted by Whitespeed

GM really muddied the waters on recommended break-in and service intervals.

To summarize from the various manuals:

First Oil Change - 500 miles
Keep RPM below 4000 - 500 miles (minimum)
Differential Oil Change - Before and After first track event
Bed in Brakes - Before first track event
Dot 4 Fluid - Before first track event
Track alignment- Before first track event
Miles before first track event - minimum 1500 miles

I wouldn't go longer than 500 miles for the first oil change, and don't skip the diff oil changes.

Camaro Race Track Preparation Guide.pdf

High Performance Owners Manual Supplement.pdf

Thanks for the links to the supplemental manuals. Was going to ask what the proper bed in procedure was, but it is spelled out in great detail in these supplements

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by JD_

Thanks for the links to the supplemental manuals. Was going to ask what the proper bed in procedure was, but it is spelled out in great detail in these supplements

Great list add one item to it before your track day: proper oil.

As far as bedding procedure for brakes what is stated in the manual is overly convoluted and likely to also benefit the rotors which really isnt necessary. Heres a link to what Ferodo recommends (and our pads are Italian Ferodos):

https://www.ferodoracing.com/product.../nuova-pagina/

First 5-6 application from say 45mph to slow roll then another set of hard applications from say 60+mph to roll.
Once done try not to use the brakes so they can cool. So either drive the car for a while or park it and let the brakes cool down. Youre done.

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Great list add one item to it before your track day: proper oil.

As far as bedding procedure for brakes what is stated in the manual is overly convoluted and likely to also benefit the rotors which really isnt necessary. Heres a link to what Ferodo recommends (and our pads are Italian Ferodos):

https://www.ferodoracing.com/product.../nuova-pagina/

First 5-6 application from say 45mph to slow roll then another set of hard applications from say 60+mph to roll.
Once done try not to use the brakes so they can cool. So either drive the car for a while or park it and let the brakes cool down. Youre done.

Much better.

The GM recommended way you would need to rent out an oval track for the day.

[Whitespeed]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Great list add one item to it before your track day: proper oil.

Yeah, I meant to include that. It's there now.

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

Much better.

The GM recommended way you would need to rent out an oval track for the day.

The second part with the repeated hard braking isn't too hard to do. But the first part with repeated moderate braking with 0.6 miles between application was a huge PITA! I drove around the countryside for a good couple of hours trying to find a stretch of road long enough and without any traffic to do this. The first time I thought I found a suitable road, I checked my rearview and found a cop on my ass! In the end, I think just regular driving satisfies the repeated moderate braking requirement.

Has anyone tried the Ferodo technique and had good track performance? I'm wondering why GM made it so involved if that's all it takes?

Nigel

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Whitespeed

Yeah, I meant to include that. It's there now.



The second part with the repeated hard braking isn't too hard to do. But the first part with repeated moderate braking with 0.6 miles between application was a huge PITA! I drove around the countryside for a good couple of hours trying to find a stretch of road long enough and without any traffic to do this. The first time I thought I found a suitable road, I checked my rearview and found a cop on my ass! In the end, I think just regular driving satisfies the repeated moderate braking requirement.

Has anyone tried the Ferodo technique and had good track performance? I'm wondering why GM made it so involved if that's all it takes?

Nigel

Yes I think GM's procedure is to bed in the rotors as much as the pads in order to prolong their life span to the max. But imo it is not necessary and some regular dd does a good enuf job for the rotors.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

Much better.

The GM recommended way you would need to rent out an oval track for the day.

Pretty much lol! Or get arrested on a highway for erratic and unsafe driving