[Perdieu]

I only make 1033 so a little less then your goal.
Power Adder:
ProCharger F1A-94 (3.50 pulley)
ProCharger A2W Intercooler
ProCharger LT1/4 Sheet Metal Intake

Engine:
ERL 416ci (10.5:1)
· Manley
· Wiseco
· Total Seal
· Clevite
· ARP
Brian Tooley Racing Cam, Springs & DoD delete Kit (231/246 117+6)
Kateck Ported LT1 Heads
Kateck Timing cover and Gear (cam is 100% locked)
Kateck Valley cover
VSP Custom PCV can with breather

Fuel System:
GM ZL1 in-tank pump
GM LT4 HPFP
GM LT4 Injectors
Cordes Performance Low Side Fuel System
Pro Meth Direct System (progressive pump) (8 #6nozzels = 48ghp)
**Have all the parts to do a fuel port injection set up (except intake)

Exhaust:
Kooks 2” Long Tubes (No Cats)
Stainless Works Cat Back with NPP

[Sixgunsled]

Originally Posted by Perdieu

I only make 1033 so a little less then your goal.
Power Adder:
ProCharger F1A-94 (3.50 pulley)
ProCharger A2W Intercooler
ProCharger LT1/4 Sheet Metal Intake

Engine:
ERL 416ci (10.5:1)
· Manley
· Wiseco
· Total Seal
· Clevite
· ARP
Brian Tooley Racing Cam, Springs & DoD delete Kit (231/246 117+6)
Kateck Ported LT1 Heads
Kateck Timing cover and Gear (cam is 100% locked)
Kateck Valley cover
VSP Custom PCV can with breather

Fuel System:
GM ZL1 in-tank pump
GM LT4 HPFP
GM LT4 Injectors
Cordes Performance Low Side Fuel System
Pro Meth Direct System (progressive pump) (8 #6nozzels = 48ghp)
**Have all the parts to do a fuel port injection set up (except intake)

Exhaust:
Kooks 2” Long Tubes (No Cats)
Stainless Works Cat Back with NPP

If your talking RWHP then you are at my goal. Like I stated in the original post I am shooting for around 1000WHP. And your build sounds awesome. with the air to water intercooler do you have any issues with regular driving in traffic or anything? Or is this mostly just a race car? I also see you are using methanol. I'm trying not to and instead of doing the LT4 stuff for fuel to do a secondary fuel system via port injection.

[Perdieu]

Originally Posted by Sixgunsled

If your talking RWHP then you are at my goal. Like I stated in the original post I am shooting for around 1000WHP. And your build sounds awesome. with the air to water intercooler do you have any issues with regular driving in traffic or anything? Or is this mostly just a race car? I also see you are using methanol. I'm trying not to and instead of doing the LT4 stuff for fuel to do a secondary fuel system via port injection.

I drive it all over the place, 100+ temps, rain, snow.. its a street car that will see the track too.

Unless you do direct port you will HAVE to do meth no way around it.
I run pump gas 91& Meth on the streets and C16 at the track

Do the LT4 stuff and the direct port..... the LT4 stuff is cheap so why not just over kill the fuel system

[Charlie540i]

Originally Posted by Perdieu

I only make 1033 so a little less then your goal.
Power Adder:
ProCharger F1A-94 (3.50 pulley)
ProCharger A2W Intercooler
ProCharger LT1/4 Sheet Metal Intake

Engine:
ERL 416ci (10.5:1)
· Manley
· Wiseco
· Total Seal
· Clevite
· ARP
Brian Tooley Racing Cam, Springs & DoD delete Kit (231/246 117+6)
Kateck Ported LT1 Heads
Kateck Timing cover and Gear (cam is 100% locked)
Kateck Valley cover
VSP Custom PCV can with breather

Fuel System:
GM ZL1 in-tank pump
GM LT4 HPFP
GM LT4 Injectors
Cordes Performance Low Side Fuel System
Pro Meth Direct System (progressive pump) (8 #6nozzels = 48ghp)
**Have all the parts to do a fuel port injection set up (except intake)

Exhaust:
Kooks 2” Long Tubes (No Cats)
Stainless Works Cat Back with NPP

How much boost do you see with the 3.50? My build is similar to yours and I'm running a 4.0 now, that will be swapped to a 3.70 soon and was just wondering if I should go with the 3.50.

[Charlie540i]

Originally Posted by Sixgunsled

If your talking RWHP then you are at my goal. Like I stated in the original post I am shooting for around 1000WHP. And your build sounds awesome. with the air to water intercooler do you have any issues with regular driving in traffic or anything? Or is this mostly just a race car? I also see you are using methanol. I'm trying not to and instead of doing the LT4 stuff for fuel to do a secondary fuel system via port injection.

My build is similar also with the A2W intercooler and we use the car all the time and go everywhere. Even my wife daily's it wit no issue whatsoever.

I live in the caribean where everyday is a hot humid day and IATs are always good. No issues there.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Perdieu

I only make 1033 so a little less then your goal.
Power Adder:
ProCharger F1A-94 (3.50 pulley)
ProCharger A2W Intercooler
ProCharger LT1/4 Sheet Metal Intake

Engine:
ERL 416ci (10.5:1)
· Manley
· Wiseco
· Total Seal
· Clevite
· ARP
Brian Tooley Racing Cam, Springs & DoD delete Kit (231/246 117+6)
Kateck Ported LT1 Heads
Kateck Timing cover and Gear (cam is 100% locked)
Kateck Valley cover
VSP Custom PCV can with breather

Fuel System:
GM ZL1 in-tank pump
GM LT4 HPFP
GM LT4 Injectors
Cordes Performance Low Side Fuel System
Pro Meth Direct System (progressive pump) (8 #6nozzels = 48ghp)
**Have all the parts to do a fuel port injection set up (except intake)

Exhaust:
Kooks 2” Long Tubes (No Cats)
Stainless Works Cat Back with NPP

I was thinking of going for a full cam lockout, I'm not a fan of this hollow torque to yield cam bolt, and most tuners don't even use the 20 degrees after the restrictor is installed. Is this a direct swap for the stock setup?

[Sixgunsled]

Originally Posted by Perdieu

I drive it all over the place, 100+ temps, rain, snow.. its a street car that will see the track too.

Unless you do direct port you will HAVE to do meth no way around it.
I run pump gas 91& Meth on the streets and C16 at the track

Do the LT4 stuff and the direct port..... the LT4 stuff is cheap so why not just over kill the fuel system

awesome info on the intercooler setup. I plan on doing secondary fuel system via port injection on my intake manifold. I think that should do it.

[Sixgunsled]

Originally Posted by oldman

I was thinking of going for a full cam lockout, I'm not a fan of this hollow torque to yield cam bolt, and most tuners don't even use the 20 degrees after the restrictor is installed. Is this a direct swap for the stock setup?

I plan on doing a zero degree lockout

[Sixgunsled]

The build is underway. I'll be pulling the heads tomorrow. The closer I get to getting the go fast stuff in there the more excited I get. Its tough getting this stuff done by myself seeing as how I've never done anything like this before and I am an active duty soldier in the army just turning wrenches at night and weekends. But its going to be super rewarding.

If you guys are interested in seeing video on the tear down you can follow me on youtube. I'll be working on the 55 chevy bel air this weekend as the motor just got delivered and its the last piece of the puzzle I was waiting on.

https://youtu.be/TBDISOReC8U

[Perdieu]

Originally Posted by Charlie540i

How much boost do you see with the 3.50? My build is similar to yours and I'm running a 4.0 now, that will be swapped to a 3.70 soon and was just wondering if I should go with the 3.50.

3.70 was 20
3.50 24

Originally Posted by oldman

I was thinking of going for a full cam lockout, I'm not a fan of this hollow torque to yield cam bolt, and most tuners don't even use the 20 degrees after the restrictor is installed. Is this a direct swap for the stock setup?

Yes. its a easy swap

Originally Posted by Sixgunsled

I plan on doing a zero degree lockout

I had cam install issues so when we went back I just added this set up. both ways work

[Sixgunsled]

So I had the motor pulled and all tore down ready to go to the machine shop to get the crank balanced and it was time to decide on upgraded clutch and lightweight flywheel or go auto. So I opted to go Auto for a few reasons mostly because I don't want to drive on bias plys or have to swap back and forth all the time and it will be easier to get consistent 60ft. times. So here's what I got so far:

Engine:
Stock block, stock cubic inch
MSD atomic intake manifold (plumbed for port injection)
diamond pistons and rings
callie ultra rods
Brian Tooley valve springs/retainers and cam
DOD/AFM delete
Johnson slow leak down lifters
LT4 head gaskets
ARP head bolts
Mighty Mouse catch can/ crank case breather
2" kooks long tubes with connection pipes
MBRP Race series cat back exhaust

Fuel:
stock DI system
Weapon X complete port injection system
- holley LS3 fuel rails
- LS3 ID1000 fuel injectors
- flex fuel kit
- all lines and fittings
- low side fuel pump
- AFR gauge
- piggy back ECU for tuning
will be on 100% E85

Power adder:
D1SC Procharger
Procharger RACE air to air intercooler 4" core

Drivetrain:
TH400 (rated for 1200hp)
PTC converter
flexplate
Carlyle Racing 15" conversion

Suspension/wheels:
1" lowering springs
15x10 rears and 17x7 fronts

Things I still need to get:
Gear vendor overdrive
custom driveshaft
upgrade to F1a-94 procharger and figure out what size pulley I will need
Good Tires

[Sixgunsled]

a few more pics

[Sixgunsled]

Originally Posted by Perdieu

I only make 1033 so a little less then your goal.
Power Adder:
ProCharger F1A-94 (3.50 pulley)
ProCharger A2W Intercooler
ProCharger LT1/4 Sheet Metal Intake

Engine:
ERL 416ci (10.5:1)
· Manley
· Wiseco
· Total Seal
· Clevite
· ARP
Brian Tooley Racing Cam, Springs & DoD delete Kit (231/246 117+6)
Kateck Ported LT1 Heads
Kateck Timing cover and Gear (cam is 100% locked)
Kateck Valley cover
VSP Custom PCV can with breather

Fuel System:
GM ZL1 in-tank pump
GM LT4 HPFP
GM LT4 Injectors
Cordes Performance Low Side Fuel System
Pro Meth Direct System (progressive pump) (8 #6nozzels = 48ghp)
**Have all the parts to do a fuel port injection set up (except intake)

Exhaust:
Kooks 2” Long Tubes (No Cats)
Stainless Works Cat Back with NPP

Perdieu are you running the stock rib pulley set up on the procharger belt? If so are you experiencing any slip with 20+ lbs of boost?

[laynlo15]

Johnson lifters are pretty bad ass, your buying all the good stuff to get to your goal.