[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by Soleil

First of all thank you so much for all the information. It does not makes it easier but I am learning a lot.

Thank you

Thank you a lot of pages to read. Very helpful.

Mostly on the street and of course the German Autobahn and maybe a little track. Ones in a while.

Wow
But you have to enlighten me about the acronyms. What does PD, BS mean?
I like to keep the stock looks. with that having said and your perfect explanation I think I narrow it down to Magnuson or LT4. And I have a good feeling with Laynlo15.
The thing is, I will install it by my self. For the final tune I am going to my local tuner.

Oh yeah, BS = Bullshit...

[Soleil]

Originally Posted by misterjaayy

600whp and 600torq are just about the norm with LT4 blower and roto fab depending on what octane you’re running. 575ish without the intake. You can go higher with other upgrades. The search feature can answer a lot of your questions. These are a couple of the LT4 blower threads.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...&highlight=Adm

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...&highlight=Adm

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...&highlight=Adm

for the links. If you use the wrong key words the seatch is useless

Again, thank you all for the great help and advise you gave me.

[Dysan911]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I don't like how the Centri blowers pull air in right off the driverside manifold.

Just to try and help out a little with a common misconception regarding the Procharger's air intake sitting over the drivers manifold.

My average IAT's are between 5 to 10 degrees over ambient. Most of the time its just 5 degrees while driving. Although the air intake is right over the manifold, I'm not entirely sure how much heat is under the hood while the car is moving but most of all the Inter-cooler is out in front and not under hood thus making the air temp being sucked in a non-factor imho.

So basically it's like if you brought Hot tap water to a boil or Ice water to a boil and ran both through the same cooling option. The end result is the same.




.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by Soleil

for the links. If you use the wrong key words the surcharge is useless

Again, thank you all for the great help and advise you gave me.

You will also notice that the LT4 blower runs 10psi, is the “norm” setup. I am looking forward to seeing the longevity with some of these cars running stock internals on 10psi. I guess it all comes down to how you drive it.

I just got back from a business trip to Berlin. I took my wife and we had a blast. I noticed most cars there were little sawed-off midget cars, I suspect you will stand out in the Camaro with any configuration. I can’t argue that the LT4 is cheaper. It is. It also delivers great starter results. subliminal message, “go Maggie”

Just kidding. Good luck. Looking forward to seeing the results.

[KingLT1]

A gal on Facebook has a Procharged car making over 800whp on the stock bottom end...and has been for 20k miles and around 200 track passes. Jenetty has a customer making 760whp on the SBE for a couple of years now. I still believe proper fueling and tuning is key to making big power on stock pistons.

[misterjaayy]

I think you see the trend here. Maggie employees and fanboys push you to their side. Pro charger and lt4 fan boys to theirs. The only people I would truly trust are the respected tuners and shops out there. The Vengeance’s the Jenettys the ADMs the Weapon Xs. . These are the guys that know each of these systems inside and out. They will give you unbiased opinions based on your goals and budget. Everyone loves their setups and they want everyone to run the same one. But ultimately that may not be in your best interest. Take the advice with a grain of salt and talk to the experts.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

Just to try and help out a little with a common misconception regarding the Procharger's air intake sitting over the drivers manifold.

My average IAT's are between 5 to 10 degrees over ambient. Most of the time its just 5 degrees while driving. Although the air intake is right over the manifold, I'm not entirely sure how much heat is under the hood while the car is moving but most of all the Inter-cooler is out in front and not under hood thus making the air temp being sucked in a non-factor imho.

So basically it's like if you brought Hot tap water to a boil or Ice water to a boil and ran both through the same cooling option. The end result is the same.




.

Yeah I didn't mean that in regards to IAT, I just don't like the location is all. I actually like how the ECS kit filter tucks better and you have access to the oil fill cap.

[Soleil]

Originally Posted by misterjaayy

I think you see the trend here. Maggie employees and fanboys push you to their side. Pro charger and lt4 fan boys to theirs. The only people I would truly trust are the respected tuners and shops out there. The Vengeance’s the Jenettys the ADMs the Weapon Xs. . These are the guys that know each of these systems inside and out. They will give you unbiased opinions based on your goals and budget. Everyone loves their setups and they want everyone to run the same one. But ultimately that may not be in your best interest. Take the advice with a grain of salt and talk to the experts.

Hehe that’s true. but also legitimate.
The thing is that our tuner over here install whatever I want. So I need to know what I want.
Let’s get down to brass tacks.
The car will be treated as a normal car. From time to time harder acceleration on the Autobahn. Some High speed phases 270+km/h (overheating issue?) mayby once a while on a track for a few laps.
LT4 with all others OEM ~ 635 hp at the crank. Included installation guide Approx. 5300$ Additional 700$ for the Supercharger lid+ 700$ Standard tune.
Magnuson with all others OEM~ 650-700 hp at the crank. Standard tune included, installation guide included. Approx. 8000$
To be on the safe site adding LT4 HPP 900$ and injectors 360$
The prices are from a web site.

[Chevy71]

Originally Posted by Soleil

Hi @Chevy71;
Thank you for the great answer yes, I like to keep the street Männer as you mentioned. It should be still drivable (also maybe in Winter.) the procharger is a turbo or SC? I don’t want that turbo lag. I apologize for my ignorance.

The procharger is a centrifugal supercharger. There is no lag at all, it's belt driven like a roots style, but it has the wheel like a turbo would. It's not subject to heat soak like you get with the roots style set up, and it doesn't put all your torque on the road at once like a roots (Whipple, Maggie, eforce).

[Chevy71]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

From a man who knows!

There are two things that are grossly overstated and it happens on both sides of the discussion, generally from people who have never owned or driven the other option. They convinced themselves through strong internet research that they know the answer:

1. PD blowers (Magnuson, Whipple, LT4) have too much torque so they aren't as drivable on the street. This is utter nonsense and spoken only from people with experience from years ago (when tech was much different), or people who bought the story and personally invested in the Centri blower. The PD blowers drive EXACTLY like stock until you mash the pedal and when you mash the pedal, power is there instantly. Only in non-experience does this represent "a problem".

2. The other BS statement is that Turbo and Centri (Procharger, Vortech, Hennessy, Hellion) both suffer from lag. This is another argument that is mostly garbage. If you drive a PD and then drive a centri/turbo, yes you will feel a difference and it will "lag" a little comparitavely. However, if you are only driving a centri/turbo...the lag is almost unnoticeable. In our cars, A8, it's not really an issue. Yes, the centri puts out lower torque numbers early in the RPM range; however, every centri car that wants to go fast adds a converter so that they jump to higher RPM's and get into higher torque levels from a dig.

Bottom line is that all of the blowers are really solid options. My recommendation is to find the tuner/mechanic that you want to work with and follow their advice. In any setup, the tune makes all the difference.

Because I have been through this game a few times, I am perfectly comfortable with using a remote tuner. There are also great remote options with Jannetty as an example.

Have you owned a centrifugal car or turbo car? I have been doing this work on cars for other people and myself for years on many different platforms (mostly American v8's). For my own cars, I have owned a turbo car, a few roots/PD cars, and now two centrifugal cars... You are showing your lack of knowledge in your comments and leading a guy down a very biased road.

1. The roots charger is all torque when you get in the boost (just search some dyne sheets) and most cars can not put that on the ground, instead they get a pile of wheel spin. I ended up peddling it just to get it moving. The instant torque feels awesome on the street, but makes going fast without spinning a science. I had a CTS-v at 814rwhp (Whipple conversion) that I can compare to my 6th gen now with much less rwhp.

2. The guys I see screaming for a T.C. are the roots guys, and I was one of them. My stock T.C. could not handle the torque in my CTS-V, my stock T.C. in my vette handled the vortex without any issues and posted fast track times than my V did with 100 less RWHP.

3. I have never had a pro charged car with any lag what so ever, you get instant boost as the pro charger is always "spooled up" so long as it's turning. It's nothing more than a bypass valve closing giving you instant boost. You should not try to slam other members and make accusations like they are internet queens and have no real world experience when your answer shows you clearly are one of those. There are a number of good examples on here I'm sure an experienced guy as yourself can find negating exactly what you are spitting out.

4. Out of all the options, I think they are all close/great options just different enough to sway someone based on what they are after manner wise, all of the options drive the same when the valve is closed, this about when you hit the gas and open that valve to actually allow boost to your car.. Each have their own mannerism to it.
The turbo set ups are the best IMO. They are faster and you can tune them to run what boost you want and set up a boost button to bring the power on as hard as you want. They seem to be the easiest on your motor and the most capable. This is an area I have the least experience with in gas cars though. Most of my turbo experience is in diesel trucks, diesels at work, and one G8 we boosted.

[exxit]

Procharged for over 10k miles now, car has almost 29k miles on it. Weekend car, I don't use it to get groceries or drive to the mall (tired of careless idiot damage and dings)

Shooting some meth at it to keep those rings from kissing... its at about 10-11psi depending on how high I go in the RPMS. I myself shift at about a C above 6300ish. So far so good, other than the regular camaro issues (rattle, tach bounce, slow chug at start due to starter heat soak) I haven't had to do anything other than change oil and keep the meth topped off.

Fastest car I've ever owned, probably easiest as far as work to power ratio goes if you want to stay under 600whp. After that, get your booty and your pockets ready for violation.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by Chevy71

Have you owned a centrifugal car or turbo car? I have been doing this work on cars for other people and myself for years on many different platforms (mostly American v8's). For my own cars, I have owned a turbo car, a few roots/PD cars, and now two centrifugal cars... You are showing your lack of knowledge in your comments and leading a guy down a very biased road.

1. The roots charger is all torque when you get in the boost (just search some dyne sheets) and most cars can not put that on the ground, instead they get a pile of wheel spin. I ended up peddling it just to get it moving. The instant torque feels awesome on the street, but makes going fast without spinning a science. I had a CTS-v at 814rwhp (Whipple conversion) that I can compare to my 6th gen now with much less rwhp.

2. The guys I see screaming for a T.C. are the roots guys, and I was one of them. My stock T.C. could not handle the torque in my CTS-V, my stock T.C. in my vette handled the vortex without any issues and posted fast track times than my V did with 100 less RWHP.

3. I have never had a pro charged car with any lag what so ever, you get instant boost as the pro charger is always "spooled up" so long as it's turning. It's nothing more than a bypass valve closing giving you instant boost. You should not try to slam other members and make accusations like they are internet queens and have no real world experience when your answer shows you clearly are one of those. There are a number of good examples on here I'm sure an experienced guy as yourself can find negating exactly what you are spitting out.

4. Out of all the options, I think they are all close/great options just different enough to sway someone based on what they are after manner wise, all of the options drive the same when the valve is closed, this about when you hit the gas and open that valve to actually allow boost to your car.. Each have their own mannerism to it.
The turbo set ups are the best IMO. They are faster and you can tune them to run what boost you want and set up a boost button to bring the power on as hard as you want. They seem to be the easiest on your motor and the most capable. This is an area I have the least experience with in gas cars though. Most of my turbo experience is in diesel trucks, diesels at work, and one G8 we boosted.

my comments throughout speak for themselves. I am not guessing. 2 Prochargers, 1 Vortech, 2 twin turbos (including my current daily driver), and 1 magnuson. I specifically called out the BS argument about traction and lag...

1.I assume that you realize the difference between roots and twin screw, even though you are using the term interchangeably?
2. Please check the fast list, twin screw guys are not adding a higher stall converter, but every centri blower on the fast list will, because it helps them jump into the peak power of the centri blower.
3. You can look at the power curves from any centri car, including your Procharger. If a pd blower has 100rwtq more torque from the jump, then someone who is used to the Pd, will perceive the build in boost as lag. It’s just how they work, a centri builds boost with rpm. A Pd blower runs full boost throughout.
- that being said, if you read the thread, you will also see that I called the lag argument BS because when you add a converter to the Centri, it jumps to a higher rpm range where the torque curve is higher...making the power instant.

Again, I was only playing with OP. I said the LT4 blower was an excellent choice...I also advised that all of the blowers were excellent choices and finding the tuner you want to use and following their recommendation was the way to go. So, thank you for calling me out, but next time, please read the thread before doing so, thanks.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by exxit

Procharged for over 10k miles now, car has almost 29k miles on it. Weekend car, I don't use it to get groceries or drive to the mall (tired of careless idiot damage and dings)

Shooting some meth at it to keep those rings from kissing... its at about 10-11psi depending on how high I go in the RPMS. I myself shift at about a C above 6300ish. So far so good, other than the regular camaro issues (rattle, tach bounce, slow chug at start due to starter heat soak) I haven't had to do anything other than change oil and keep the meth topped off.

Fastest car I've ever owned, probably easiest as far as work to power ratio goes if you want to stay under 600whp. After that, get your booty and your pockets ready for violation.

That is classic...and so true. Great explanation.

[laynlo15]

We all have our likes and dislikes. I'm a Maggie guy and am pleased with the performance and it looks bitchin under the hood. Yes I'm biased and I have a lot of proof to back it up. I love to go to the track and do a burn out and make a great pass down the track, it feels great. I have a stock block, heads and make 713/665 rwhp/tq and can change the pulley and get 24 mpg on the hwy. Throttle response is incredible and you should be prepared to hold on to your ass when you put the hammer down. Even at 550 hp lilke Drsagacity is right now it has a feel that most won't know with other Superchargers, we are at full boost in about .5 seconds, its an awesome feeling to be almost out of control with the throttle and yes there are many on the forum with other Forced Inductions that make more power but can't put down the numbers at the track I do or change the pulley and make 650 on the street on 93 octane. The Maggies are quiet compared to the Prochargers, but overall I think the Magnuson is a better package for all around performance at the track and on the street. Still there is room for lots of options for all of us, I won't run down another product from a competitor but I will try and get you to buy a Magnuson because I think its the best overall SC out there. Try it you'll like it.