[KingLT1]

Spray it through the throttle body with the engine running...

[Emoto]

Oh, duh. LOL. Thanks.

[Emoto]

CRC makes lots of cleaners: http://www.crcindustries.com/products/automotive.html

Which one do people think would be best? I am thinking this one might be the safest: http://www.crcindustries.com/product...-oz-05078.html

Thoughts?

[Elite Engineering]

Hey All,


First off we want caution anyone using a solvent based engine running upper induction cleaner!! You must realize these engines are not like the old port injection engines where you can use these with little danger of damage, we have yet to see a single case in the 8 years we have been studying these where there was NOT damage from doing these on GDI engines.


As the deposits (coking) are not the "soft carbon" of days past that could be loosened and expelled out the exhaust w/out damage, these are hard and baked into a crystalline like hard composition, and while the cleaners can loosen up to 20% of the total deposits and most is expelled out the exhaust, some will be forced between the pistons and cylinder walls causing scouring (scratches). Damage may be minor, but in every inspection of pistons after these we find damage as these pictures show:





This will become a breach in the piston/ring/cylinder wall seal leading to more blow-by and eventually oil consumption.


The only safe way is a manual cleaning either with crushed walnut shell media or the pick and brush method.





Key is to make SURE the ports with valves open are taped off so no debris can enter.


A proper catchcan system that stops most all of the oil and other compounds such as our E2-X line at 95% effective VS most others at 30% or less will stop up to 85% of these deposits. There is always going to be some coking due to the back filling of the valves with variable valve timing events that allow some burnt gasses to back fill emulating the old EGR systems. This cannot be prevented.


Also be aware that all GDI engines experience many times the raw fuel wash-down entering past the pistons diluting the engine oil. This is because of both the high compression ratio and the extreme pressures the fuel is introduced into the combustion chamber. 2,000-3,000 PSI vs 45-55 PSI with old port injection. As the factory PCV system is not very effective at removing these prior to mixing with the oil, our dual valve system that provides full time evacuation and flushing of this and the other compounds from the crankcase is a great improvement.


Hope this helps all understand these engines are NOT the engines of the past, and it takes end user intervention to enjoy a long life that we took for granted in the past.


Now, some pictures posted show the deposits. And many have stated "That does not look bad". Understand that ANY build up has a negative impact on the air charge entering that cylinder. When your engine comes from the factory, the intake valves have a precise method in the design. From the satin swirl finish on the tulip portion to the stem under cut and the multi angle seat mating surfaces:





So when ANY material adheres to this surface it has a negative effect on flow.


Another danger is ignoring these deposits. As they build, it is normal for "chinks" to flake off during operation and if a piece gets trapped between the valve and seat, the piston will make contact with the valve and bend it as this picture shows:






And of course lets compare with a LS engine with 142,000 miles on it and zero deposits due to the fuel spray cooling and cleaning them:





What is it in the PCV vapors that causes all of this as well as Knock Retard and other power robbing issues? This is a typical drain from one of our E2-X systems when spun in a centrifuge and analyzed:





This is 23% raw fuel. 70% acids and water, and 7% is actually oil saturated with abrasive particulate matter.


Not a single compound can be part of the combustion process w/out causing some issue from less power, fuel economy, or efficiency.


Cheers!

[KingLT1]

yeah if you wait excessive amount of miles before spraying the cleaner, then that may be plausible, but the idea here is to spray the cleaner in regular maintenance intervals starting early in the engines life as a preventative measure. once the shit is baked on like lava rock, then yeah other measures should probably be take.

[YellowLT1SS]

Originally Posted by parbreak

Yeah, you would think with the freaking essay like response Elite gives on here to some questions they might actually be able to write good instructions. Hence why I chose Mighty Mouse Wild.

Lmfso I so agree with you on this, it’s super backwords if you ask me and what’s funny is they still don’t have proper instructions Lmfso .