01-26-2018, 03:45 PM | #15 |
Drives: 2010 LT2 V6 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 13
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Can't see page 2
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01-26-2018, 03:57 PM | #16 |
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01-26-2018, 04:00 PM | #17 |
Drives: 2011 Green SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: CleveBurbs Ohio
Posts: 669
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Did you get it to work yet ???
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Edelbrock EForce Blower, RDP custom grind cam with upgrades,Stainless Power Headers with HighFlow Cats, Stainless Power Retro catback, DSS halfshafts, CAI brand CAI, Tuned ON the Dyno by Steve at RDP. SLP rims,All vinyl stripes removed and painted on, custom hand painted pinstriping, Custom leather seats, Lloyds mats,windows tinted, Sparks emblems, Hurst Billit shifter, and too many small items to list. VDI Scissors doors.
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01-26-2018, 09:30 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2012 IOM SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Georgia
Posts: 92
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02-12-2018, 11:38 AM | #19 |
Drives: 2010 LT2 V6 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 13
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No, I haven't fixed mine, but I've ruled out a few things.
I switched out the door lock actuator and got same issue: Car registers door as being open. Next logical thing I thought was unplug battery since car might just be working on "remembering" old actuator. So I unplugged battery for 30 minutes then plugged back in, started up car and it went through calibration cycle. Asked me to lower and raise passenger door but not driver door. I let it sit and run for 10 minutes, DIC said CAL, which I assumed was calibrating. Still won't let window go up or down. So I open driver door. Now car wont register that door is open. So, basically opposite of what issue was before. Now my next option is to find wire short in A pillar mentioned in another thread or BCM exchange. Thanks for sarcasm guys, that really helps to find and resolve issue. |
04-23-2018, 10:13 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2010 1LT RS Victory Red Join Date: May 2011
Location: Steeler Country
Posts: 37
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Did you find the issue? I am having the same problem....my driver window doesnt move and the car believes the door is always shut. I figured it was a wire problem but I still tried a new window switch and motor because I had them already. no dice.
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05-27-2018, 04:45 PM | #21 |
My window just began not closing today. It started after I disconnected and reconnected the door wire connector (I took the pannel off trying to diagnose my speaker cutting out) . I heard some clicking, and now my drivers side window won't close. If I press the button, the window will go up an inch repeatedly 3 times then all the way back down.
I don't know what to do now? Does anyone have any suggestion on how I can get the window closed? I unplugged the battery and tried reindexing, which won't work cause the window doesn't roll up |
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05-27-2018, 07:04 PM | #22 | |
Space Shuttle Aficionado
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Quote:
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05-28-2018, 08:24 AM | #23 | |
Quote:
So now I'm thinking the windows memory may possibly be thinking the window is closed. Getting it to the closed position and reconnecting it might hopefully reset it Thanks! |
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05-28-2018, 01:27 PM | #24 | |
Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 4,586
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Quote:
Check out my old thread here: https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=506568
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2010 CGM Camaro 2SS LS3 Swapped A6 - GPI LS3 SS1 .647/.638, (224/237, 112 +4, 7º overlap) on CamMotion 8620 core, BTR Platinum .660" Dual Spring kit w/titanium retainers, CHE bronze trunnion upgrade, stock heads milled @ .015, Melling HV 10296 oil pump, TSP 1-7/8" long tube headers (W/Catless Off-road Pipes), Corsa Xtreme 3" Catback, GPI Ported/Rod Mod Intake, Stage 2 Ported Throttle Body, Vararam OTR CAI, Mike Norris Gen 2 catch can + GM 1LE clean side separator, 160º thermostat - Megan Racing adjustable coilovers (lowered 1.75"), MRR M017 10/11" wheels-Tuned by Ryan @ GPI
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