[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by sir574

Are they good enough to use till they are done, then swapping over to a dedicated track pad?

Or is it better to swap between track and the stock pads for track days? Do you only swap the fronts? or all 4 corners? What about rotors, can you swap between pads with the stock rotors?

Ive tried 3 different pads and stock Ferodo are great for dual purpose car. They last about 5-6 days venue dependend. Good feel and modulation. Never faded on me once. They are gentle on rotors too and dont put out a lot of heat. I run different tracks in instructor level groups. If you wish a pad thats good for both duties than just use the stockers.
If you want a pad with more torque (which will also elevate overal temps) then switch all 4 corners at the track. At this point i like simplicity so i just use the stockers. There is absolutely nothing wrong with them even at very fast pace with no cool down laps for 30+min stints.

[Pollock]

I am new to this but plan on running stock rotors and pads with castrol SRF.

Since your going through the trouble of flushing brake fluid might as well buy the best. Go with Castrol

[R3ctivision]

I have run stock pads. My first front set lasted three days, second front set did about two days with maybe half a day of life remaining. These are in advanced open passing groups at Auto Club Speedway and Laguna Seca, which both have heavy braking zones.

The pads do fade a bit when hot. They lose some friction but they will still work if you press the pedal harder. Never boiled fluid, and never overheated the calipers (no color change like you probably see when you brake hard with high friction race pads).

I'm perfectly happy with them for track days since they keep the rotors and calipers in good condition. They can also be streeted, but the burnish layer will scrape off after a day or two or cold street driving. At every track day, I use the first morning session to reburnish the pads until they turn white at the contact. You should see the rotors glaze blue. If they look uneven or are gray, you are not braking hard enough or getting the pads hot enough.

Once burnished they work pretty well. Don't forget stockers are like half the price of proper race pads.

[R3ctivision]

I should add, though, that in a 30 minute session I need to take a cool down lap after 3-4 hot laps. Cool down doesn't mean slow, it just means lifting and coasting a second before braking, and getting on the throttle slightly later. Makes a huge difference to let the tires and brakes cool a little.

[Gatorac]

Originally Posted by Th3Beast

I used my stock pads at both a technical track (1.6 miles) and at Sebring which much more high speed. IMO, they held up great for what they are. Good pedal feel and resisted fade well for an OEM pad.

The key is to bed them in (burnish) properly a day or so before your track day. I did 8-10 stops from 50-70mph to 5mph, gradually increasing pedal pressure each time. Then drive around for a few miles to let them cool with trying to hardly use the brakes.

My OEM pads lasted me about 4-5 track days (probably have one day left in them) before I switched over to Power Stop Track Day pads. Now my two pads are Power Stop Z26 for street and TrackDay for track. The compounds are supposed to work well together so there aren't any issues with deposits on the rotors. I still re-burnish the track pads in before each track day.

EDIT: Oh and agree 100% on the brake fluid. I run Motul 660 and flush whole system before each event. Might be a bit overkill, but it's cheap insurance.

Keep an eye on the PST pads. Mine separated from the backing plate when just a shade over half worn. Kind of freaked me out when I was swapping back to the Z26 and big chunks of the pad were coming off as I pulled them out of the caliper.

[Th3Beast]

Originally Posted by Gatorac

Keep an eye on the PST pads. Mine separated from the backing plate when just a shade over half worn. Kind of freaked me out when I was swapping back to the Z26 and big chunks of the pad were coming off as I pulled them out of the caliper.

Damn... noted! I'll check them over when I put them back in next week before my Sebring event on Friday.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Gville1LE

Wet boiling temp is more important, as the brake fluid is constantly absorbing moisture from the air. The dry temp is continuously degrading.

[Th3Beast]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Wet boiling temp is more important, as the brake fluid is constantly absorbing moisture from the air. The dry temp is continuously degrading.

Both are important, but if you are like me and flush your fluid 1-2 days before a track event, you will most likely be at the dry boiling point or close to it.

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Wet boiling temp is more important, as the brake fluid is constantly absorbing moisture from the air. The dry temp is continuously degrading.

+1.

[carguy55]

Just ran my car Wednesday on track for the 1st time total stock (except for 5w-40) and it did great on stock pads. It was almost funny how late I could brake compared to almost everyone else. Going to to be getting track alignment and SRF before going back for more on the 21st. Only issue I had was the damn knee pad came off and went down by the pedals during a hot lap. I will be running without them next time.

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by carguy55

Just ran my car Wednesday on track for the 1st time total stock (except for 5w-40) and it did great on stock pads. It was almost funny how late I could brake compared to almost everyone else. Going to to be getting track alignment and SRF before going back for more on the 21st. Only issue I had was the damn knee pad came off and went down by the pedals during a hot lap. I will be running with them next time.

Same knee pad issue happened to me first time on track...it’s never happened again though.

[Pollock]

I dont understand how the knee pad falls off. Are you guys bumping it with your knee or does it simply vibrate loose.

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by Pollock

I dont understand how the knee pad falls off. Are you guys bumping it with your knee or does it simply vibrate loose.

Bumping it with knee under side load on track. You’d never encounter this on the street. Again, happened 1st session ever with my car on track, never since. I’m pretty sure the clips aren’t fully seated from the factory.

[BigShow1960]

Hmmmm. I might need to check my brakes. I've got 5,000 ish miles, five track days, and two more coming up next weekend. What are the specs on the brakes, how thin can the pads be for a two day track event?