[jwcassidy1969]

I recently had a Vortech V3 kit installed and I thought the bypass was only supposed to let off boost when you let off the throttle. I have been having an issue and trying to rule out the throttle blade closing or something in the tune. I noticed if I hold a steady throttle the bypass is letting boost out on steady acceleration before I shift. If this is not normal then possible my valve spring is not strong enough to hold boost under medium throttle. Under heavy throttle the car pulls all the way to the top in every gear but when I catch the car just right it jerks one time and I let off. Any input would be awesome.

[exxit]

I've noticed this in my procharger system too. Depending on throttle position even the slightest negative change in throttle will cause the bypass to open up and dump. I have never noticed it happen while at WOT though.

[jwcassidy1969]

Originally Posted by exxit

I've noticed this in my procharger system too. Depending on throttle position even the slightest negative change in throttle will cause the bypass to open up and dump. I have never noticed it happen while at WOT though.

Is your drivability the same as stock below 4000 rpm with no surging or anything weird? I think my issue is within the tune so I took it back to him today..

[ninetres]

This is normal. You don’t need pressure during maintenance throttle. It should close as soon as there is load.

[tireslayer0331]

What ninetres said, I hear mine letting out air all the time while cruising around but WOT all I hear is the blower whining

[MR 45TH]

Originally Posted by tireslayer0331

all I hear is the blower whining

The best part of driving

[chrest]

same set up as you.

its all vacuum driven, if there is no load on the engine, it wont matter where the throttle position is. unless I'm WOT and a load is on it, there is a vacuum condition and it is opened up. A mechanical boost/vacuum gauge has me pretty intune with what the engine is doing constantly, i have a pretty good idea on what will happen when with that bypass valve, and it is open alot.

[jwcassidy1969]

Originally Posted by chrest

same set up as you.

its all vacuum driven, if there is no load on the engine, it wont matter where the throttle position is. unless I'm WOT and a load is on it, there is a vacuum condition and it is opened up. A mechanical boost/vacuum gauge has me pretty intune with what the engine is doing constantly, i have a pretty good idea on what will happen when with that bypass valve, and it is open alot.

Thanks for the input the problem seems to be the MAF sensor is not reading correctly in the Intercooler so it needs to be moved up to the inlet tube going up close to the throttle body. Not sure who else has the Vortech v3 or on the 16,17 or if the 18 is different but it will have to be moved. Here’s hoping the issue will be resolved.

[chrest]

Originally Posted by jwcassidy1969

Thanks for the input the problem seems to be the MAF sensor is not reading correctly in the Intercooler so it needs to be moved up to the inlet tube going up close to the throttle body. Not sure who else has the Vortech v3 or on the 16,17 or if the 18 is different but it will have to be moved. Here’s hoping the issue will be resolved.

my tuner wanted to do this as well. mines still down in the tank like yours but he MAF tuned the car and said if it was moved up to the pipe, that it would be much easier for him and more consistent with air flow.

he worked his magic with it in the tank and it runs like a champ but he did want to go that same route.

[jwcassidy1969]

Originally Posted by chrest

my tuner wanted to do this as well. mines still down in the tank like yours but he MAF tuned the car and said if it was moved up to the pipe, that it would be much easier for him and more consistent with air flow.

he worked his magic with it in the tank and it runs like a champ but he did want to go that same route.

My car ran great at full throttle and slow but it had a stumble and like an air gap on mid throttle that was a not right. I guess down here in Texas the humidity was hurting the air or the adjustments to air/fuel were not happening at the correct time being down on the Intercooler. It seemed on cold days it would be hard to duplicate the problem but when warm it was terrible.