[TJay74]

Originally Posted by 1LE Red Dragon

Go WOT in a 3rd gear turn in a FI 1LE versus with a stock 1LE and you will see where the weakness of the Traction control reaction comes into play.

It will act the same way it does on a stock 1LE. The moment the Yaw sensor sees movement and the moment the wheel speeds exceed what is needed for the computer to tire slippage it will activate the traction control and stability control.

[1LE Red Dragon]

Originally Posted by TJay74

It will act the same way it does on a stock 1LE. The moment the Yaw sensor sees movement and the moment the wheel speeds exceed what is needed for the computer to tire slippage it will activate the traction control and stability control.

It acts or tries to act in the same way. The problem is the potential change in Yaw rate is much faster with a higher torque/HP car. The systems response time is tuned for the possible yaw rate change the factory car can produce. When YAW rate change of the FI car exceeds the maximum yaw rate change possible with the stock torque, the behavior becomes too slow to catch the car like it was designed. I have seen this first hand. It is not speculation. The heavier nose with the PD blower could have helped cause the oversteer too and compounded the issue. Going 30 degrees all of a sudden at 55 mph in a turn will scare you. Well it did me. You learn to go up a gear, and keep the torque lower. It keeps the rear planted in turns, but acceleration after the curve suffers some.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by 1LE Red Dragon

It acts or tries to act in the same way. The problem is the potential change in Yaw rate is much faster with a higher torque/HP car. The systems response time is tuned for the possible yaw rate change the factory car can produce. When YAW rate change of the FI car exceeds the maximum yaw rate change possible with the stock torque, the behavior becomes too slow to catch the car like it was designed. I have seen this first hand. It is not speculation. The heavier nose with the PD blower could have helped cause the oversteer too and compounded the issue. Going 30 degrees all of a sudden at 55 mph in a turn will scare you. Well it did me. You learn to go up a gear, and keep the torque lower. It keeps the rear planted in turns, but acceleration after the curve suffers some.

There should be a way of tuning the response time for quicker kick-in times and activation/deactivation of the system. If the relevant torque control modules are similar to the ones in the ZL1, then this could be the direction to take.

[MR 45TH]

Originally Posted by Chris C 1SS 1LE

Been awhile though suspect you'll need fuel. Larger injectors, a pump.

Not necessarily. It will depend on the ultimate power goal. Most FI base kits will work fine with stock fuel systems. It’s when you push past that limit things start getting dicey .

[Chris C 1SS 1LE]

Tracking. Tango.

[Mr Bill]

Originally Posted by jwcassidy1969

I am in the process of having a Vortech installed on my 1le. According to vortech the kit is 65 lbs and you remove 10 or more lbs with factory intake and tubes. You get an additional 140-150 whp and according to them temps are close to stock temps. We will see.

Any update yet

[jwcassidy1969]

Sorry just got the car back tonight. The car made 574 at the wheels and 508 torque. Power feels really linear but with stock tires it blows them off in first and second. Pulls really hard in all gears . My drive home was a little over an hour and tires were warm enough to get on it but had someone in front of me creeping along. All and all I am happy with the car. It ended up being 8.5 lbs of boost he said if I would have had headers and catless he would have went 7.5. Lbs.

[Swagger]

Originally Posted by 1LE Red Dragon

From my experience. If you go up in power using FI on a 1LE, you will lose the best part of the car. The handling. The trac control system is not capable of controlling a car with 100 more ft lbs of torque. I made my wonderful handling 2013 1LE into a beast with an Eforce supercharger. But the thing would go 35 to 40 degrees sideways in 3rd gear in a curve without the trac control being able to catch it. It was extremely tail happy.

The wonderful, perfectly balanced car loses some of it poise when the torque curve gets turned up. The trac controls are setup for the response the car has from the factory. NA will have more power, but the torque hits more comparable to stock torque build.

My $.02.

But the intense acceleration is FUN...

You're delusional... The TC system is perfectly fine with added power and controlling the car, nor is the handling affected in the fashion you are stating. Drive or own one, then comment vs rank speculation

[Swagger]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

OP - keep in mind if you really are thinking about tracking, F/I is not the safest/best way to go.

F/I adds a tremendous amount of heat (mitigated somewhat by the available coolers).

Most significantly, it's the extra ~200lbs added to the nose of the car that will have the most significant impact. Extra HP doesn't help you through corners.
Braking distance and longevity is also negatively affected.

Go for an all-motor build. ZL1+ levels of HP with no extra weight.

For DD or cruiser, F/I all day.

:l aughabove::lau ghabove::laugh above: 200lbs huh... Its like folks just make up a number and it must be true. Do you have before and after weights on a PC car?

[Swagger]

Originally Posted by Tucsonas

Looking for honest feedback from the guys who are procharged, I have a 1LE, love it, but had a 5th gen that I always wanted to mod but just never did. Wondering what you guys that have done it think about it, install looks easy enough, no real need other than a desire to increase horsepower, more importantly something I can do myself. I know I'll need a tune, but does will the canned tune be good for awhile? I am happy with the car, have tracked it once and will again. Not looking for a sales pitch just honest feedback from guys who have been there, done that, don't want to take the hit to sell it and buy a zl1....

Let me throw my experience to date in here with my 1LE... Take from it what you may.

My car is running a 416, Cammed and F1A setup. Its got 800lb-ft to the wheels and makes 906whp on E85 (852/778 on Pump/Meth). My suspension and brakes are stock. I run Toyo R888R tires factory sized front and 315/30 rears on the factory wheels.

1. My car is not nose heavy, nor is it 200lbs heavier.
2. The tires are ideally matched for handling and acceleration with no issues.
3. The TC system isn't overwhelmed if left on and has NO issues.
4. The car drives near normal unless asked not (low speed and a cam has compromises for sure) A stock cam car would be extremely docile at low speeds.

My car is more extreme than most 1LE's power wise and runs a lil bit more tire on the rear that stock. As with any tire, ground temps matter and the Toyo's like warmer temps. My car in 40 degree temps with traction control off has some traction issues. No where near what people would expect or claim, its very manageable and requires minimal correction. In warmer temps say 60 and up its had NO issues with TC off and WOT acceleration thru the gears. The tires make a world of difference vs the stock tires. Now I haven't done a road course yet, time of year and being in the Northeast and all. However I have done a ton of very rural, off camber back roads in 40 degree temps and the car is all there.

My handling is better now in cooler temps on these tires than it was on stock tires in warmer temps. I cant wait for better temps to exploit the handling of this car. A great combo IMO is simple for you.

D1X, LT4 topside, 2" headers with stock mufflers and a tune. Thats a safe combo that will drive like stock, make great HP and be reliable. I would suggest throwing meth in as well as a safeguard for the rings. But if you stay in the 6xxwhp range it should live. (It can vary, some motors have popped making less hp) The tune is key, if youre tuner knows you are gonna run it hard or do road course work adjustments can be made. I hope it helps and best of luck

[Mr Bill]

Originally Posted by Swagger

Let me throw my experience to date in here with my 1LE... Take from it what you may.

My car is running a 416, Cammed and F1A setup. Its got 800lb-ft to the wheels and makes 906whp on E85 (852/778 on Pump/Meth). My suspension and brakes are stock. I run Toyo R888R tires factory sized front and 315/30 rears on the factory wheels.

1. My car is not nose heavy, nor is it 200lbs heavier.
2. The tires are ideally matched for handling and acceleration with no issues.
3. The TC system isn't overwhelmed if left on and has NO issues.
4. The car drives near normal unless asked not (low speed and a cam has compromises for sure) A stock cam car would be extremely docile at low speeds.

My car is more extreme than most 1LE's power wise and runs a lil bit more tire on the rear that stock. As with any tire, ground temps matter and the Toyo's like warmer temps. My car in 40 degree temps with traction control off has some traction issues. No where near what people would expect or claim, its very manageable and requires minimal correction. In warmer temps say 60 and up its had NO issues with TC off and WOT acceleration thru the gears. The tires make a world of difference vs the stock tires. Now I haven't done a road course yet, time of year and being in the Northeast and all. However I have done a ton of very rural, off camber back roads in 40 degree temps and the car is all there.

My handling is better now in cooler temps on these tires than it was on stock tires in warmer temps. I cant wait for better temps to exploit the handling of this car. A great combo IMO is simple for you.

D1X, LT4 topside, 2" headers with stock mufflers and a tune. Thats a safe combo that will drive like stock, make great HP and be reliable. I would suggest throwing meth in as well as a safeguard for the rings. But if you stay in the 6xxwhp range it should live. (It can vary, some motors have popped making less hp) The tune is key, if youre tuner knows you are gonna run it hard or do road course work adjustments can be made. I hope it helps and best of luck

Can you post video of car running with Procharger and cam installed thanks

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by Swagger

:l aughabove::lau ghabove::laugh above: 200lbs huh... Its like folks just make up a number and it must be true. Do you have before and after weights on a PC car?

Ever checked the curb weight of a ZL1 vs a 2SS 1LE?

[JamesNoBrakes]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

Ever checked the curb weight of a ZL1 vs a 2SS 1LE?

To be fair, there are other things than just intercooler/cooling/screw-set, etc., there's larger brake rotors, bigger rear calipers, upgraded fuel system for lateral Gs, etc. These are reasons why just slapping on a supercharger doesn't necessarily yield faster times around a track, sure it pulls stronger in the flats, but now it has to slow down that faster speed and slightly heavier weight, which takes more brake, which adds even more weight to be slowed down, etc. If you are going to properly match the spring rate and dampers it's going to take some tweaks, and so on. Oh, you can have a pretty fast car with a SC up front without changing much else and you can have plenty of fun, but if you really are looking for all-around performance increases and to go faster around a track, it gets more complicated.

[DFW1LE]

Originally Posted by Swagger

Now I haven't done a road course yet, time of year and being in the Northeast and all. However I have done a ton of very rural, off camber back roads in 40 degree temps and the car is all there.

Trying to compare street handling to a road course may be pushing things a bit.