[mikem2104]

will post back findings tomorrow when i drive the car more.

my logic is that if the seat is permitting fluid through, it will hit the bleeder valve hole before it hits the threads and fill it. path of least resistance. so, you'd think if enough fluid entered to travel up the threads, it would also fill the lower portion of the bleeder valve.

[Eric10905]

Originally Posted by mikem2104

will post back findings tomorrow when i drive the car more.

my logic is that if the seat is permitting fluid through, it will hit the bleeder valve hole before it hits the threads and fill it. path of least resistance. so, you'd think if enough fluid entered to travel up the threads, it would also fill the lower portion of the bleeder valve.

true, good point.

[mikem2104]

OK, so posting an update and hopefully some useful information for others that are going to do their brakes.

first part of the update, and it's good news. drove the car this morning in normal conditions and down some side streets to do some hard brake testing. no fluid on the threads or in the bleeder. i removed the caps, put a toothpick down the bleeder and they are all dry. PHEW.
braking under "emergency" felt normal.

so, the solution to my weeping/seeping threads was the following:

1. buy a damn 1/4 torque wrench and brake clean
2. remove bleeder valves, clean them careful and using a small brush / dabber cleaned the matting surface inside the caliper.
3. reinstall bleeder valve
4. bleed brakes, again.
5. using the torque wrench from step 1 (LOL) torque the bleeders to spec. i found that every single bleeder took more torque than i could apply with an open 11mm wrench. for future reference for anyone wondering, i set my torque wrench to 170 in lbs of torque.
6. using a nozzle on the brake clean, insert it into the bleeder and give it a healthy dose of brake clean.
7. clean caliper
8. leave the caps off and allow the bleeders to dry out from the brake clean
9. test drive


everything worked out for me, brakes are strong and no more dribble.

[Eric10905]

Originally Posted by mikem2104

OK, so posting an update and hopefully some useful information for others that are going to do their brakes.

first part of the update, and it's good news. drove the car this morning in normal conditions and down some side streets to do some hard brake testing. no fluid on the threads or in the bleeder. i removed the caps, put a toothpick down the bleeder and they are all dry. PHEW.
braking under "emergency" felt normal.

so, the solution to my weeping/seeping threads was the following:

1. buy a damn 1/4 torque wrench and brake clean
2. remove bleeder valves, clean them careful and using a small brush / dabber cleaned the matting surface inside the caliper.
3. reinstall bleeder valve
4. bleed brakes, again.
5. using the torque wrench from step 1 (LOL) torque the bleeders to spec. i found that every single bleeder took more torque than i could apply with an open 11mm wrench. for future reference for anyone wondering, i set my torque wrench to 170 in lbs of torque.
6. using a nozzle on the brake clean, insert it into the bleeder and give it a healthy dose of brake clean.
7. clean caliper
8. leave the caps off and allow the bleeders to dry out from the brake clean
9. test drive


everything worked out for me, brakes are strong and no more dribble.

Thanks for the follow up Mike. Glad it worked out well for you!