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Old 12-08-2025, 10:36 PM   #15
Chris Larsson
 
Drives: Camaro 2017 ZL1
Join Date: Nov 2025
Location: Lima
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I tried to bleed the SC yesterday.

When I jumped K6 I didn't hear the pump running. Also, I didn't notice any movement in the coolant that I filled in the funnel.

I think that the pump is bad. I'll take it to an electrician and let you know.

Guys you are awsome.
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Old 12-09-2025, 12:02 AM   #16
ZLRob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Larsson View Post
I tried to bleed the SC yesterday.

When I jumped K6 I didn't hear the pump running. Also, I didn't notice any movement in the coolant that I filled in the funnel.

I think that the pump is bad. I'll take it to an electrician and let you know.

Guys you are awsome.
You heard nothing at all? I recently had to replace the body on my blowers coolant pump because it got a hole rubbed into it from the blower belt and all the torquing the engine does while driving... Just like you, I attempted to run the pump and heard nothing on the initial. I needed to "burp" the hoses and sort of massage the air out of the system by squeezing the hoses while the pump attempted to run. It was only until I did that that the pump started running and cycling normally once again.

Your pump may not be bad, but perhaps in failsafe mode where the PCM auto shuts it due to all the air.

Perhaps it is bad, but it may be something worth trying before you need to replace it.

If you do wind up needing a pump I got one that I could sell you for relatively cheap. The cover will require replacing with your cover, but it's a super easy transfer over. 3 small torx bolts if I remember right then the cover comes right off and is swappable. Since yours is still intact, you could just reuse yours but the motor actually works.
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Old 12-09-2025, 01:53 AM   #17
Chris Larsson
 
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Indeed I didn't hear anything.
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Old 12-09-2025, 02:03 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Chris Larsson View Post
Indeed I didn't hear anything.
That's disappointing. They're actually pretty solid pumps, but just like anything else, it can give out eventually. Let me know if you want to go with the pump I got. It's just sitting in my toolbox as a spare in the meantime until the day comes I may need it, or sell it.
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2017 Red Hot ZL1 A10 - Apex ARC-8's, 305/ 325 PS4's, DSX 9.06 12% lower, Griptec OE upper, NGK HR7 Ruthenium plugs, Nostrum 25+ injectors, XDI Goliath HPFP, Katech dual in tank LPFP, Katech oil pump, LME tensioner, DOD delete, LT1 big fuel cam, Jokerz ported blower, MPI lid, GMS hood extractor bracket, Granatelli SS plug wires, Cordes LTR reservoir, DMS T-stat housing, 186* LS3 T-stat, Borla X pipe, Black Widow Angry Housewife/ Corsa NPP mufflers, BMR engine mounts, Banks iDash, Lithium Battery, AEM X- Series, HP Tuners, E85, 16.5 psi
758 HP/ 804 TQ

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Old 12-31-2025, 10:47 PM   #19
Chris Larsson
 
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Dears,
A quick update ... I installed the ADM intercooler reservoir V2 and still can't turn the pump on continuously when I jump the relay or the fuse. However, it worked only twice and I could see the fluid flowing to the reservoir.


I ordered a new pump from the stealer I mean the dealer and will get it installed and keep you posted.
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Old 12-31-2025, 11:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Larsson View Post
Dears,
A quick update ... I installed the ADM intercooler reservoir V2 and still can't turn the pump on continuously when I jump the relay or the fuse. However, it worked only twice and I could see the fluid flowing to the reservoir.


I ordered a new pump from the stealer I mean the dealer and will get it installed and keep you posted.
You ordered that pump for nothing most likely. While you are attempting to run the pump you need the squeeze the hoses down by where the pump is to burst the air bubbles that are in there and get the fluid moving. You need to do that several times and you need to cycle the pump a few times as you attempt to do that.
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2017 Red Hot ZL1 A10 - Apex ARC-8's, 305/ 325 PS4's, DSX 9.06 12% lower, Griptec OE upper, NGK HR7 Ruthenium plugs, Nostrum 25+ injectors, XDI Goliath HPFP, Katech dual in tank LPFP, Katech oil pump, LME tensioner, DOD delete, LT1 big fuel cam, Jokerz ported blower, MPI lid, GMS hood extractor bracket, Granatelli SS plug wires, Cordes LTR reservoir, DMS T-stat housing, 186* LS3 T-stat, Borla X pipe, Black Widow Angry Housewife/ Corsa NPP mufflers, BMR engine mounts, Banks iDash, Lithium Battery, AEM X- Series, HP Tuners, E85, 16.5 psi
758 HP/ 804 TQ

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Old 01-01-2026, 01:32 AM   #21
Chris Larsson
 
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Thanks ZLRob.

Indeed I did all what you suggested but had no luck.
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Old 01-01-2026, 04:14 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Chris Larsson View Post
Thanks ZLRob.

Indeed I did all what you suggested but had no luck.
Damn.. maybe you do just have a dud pump. When you get your new one get back to us and let us know what happens.
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2017 Red Hot ZL1 A10 - Apex ARC-8's, 305/ 325 PS4's, DSX 9.06 12% lower, Griptec OE upper, NGK HR7 Ruthenium plugs, Nostrum 25+ injectors, XDI Goliath HPFP, Katech dual in tank LPFP, Katech oil pump, LME tensioner, DOD delete, LT1 big fuel cam, Jokerz ported blower, MPI lid, GMS hood extractor bracket, Granatelli SS plug wires, Cordes LTR reservoir, DMS T-stat housing, 186* LS3 T-stat, Borla X pipe, Black Widow Angry Housewife/ Corsa NPP mufflers, BMR engine mounts, Banks iDash, Lithium Battery, AEM X- Series, HP Tuners, E85, 16.5 psi
758 HP/ 804 TQ

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Old 01-06-2026, 07:35 AM   #23
Chris Larsson
 
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A quick update guys ....

I replaced the pump yesterday and it seems to be working fine. Also, I jumped K6 relay to test it while the car is off and was OK.

B1S3 temp is reduced from around 100C (212F) to around 60C (140F).
B1S1 was 36C (96F).
B1S2 was 56C (130F).

Next .... I am thinking about installing an interchiller to tackle the temperature issue once and for all.


Although I can feel the SC kicking in hard, I get some flashing check engine light. I'll wait for the HP tuner unit to arrive so that I can have clearer picture of what's going on.

Thanks for your support and I'll keep you posted.
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Old 01-06-2026, 08:01 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Larsson View Post
A quick update guys ....

I replaced the pump yesterday and it seems to be working fine. Also, I jumped K6 relay to test it while the car is off and was OK.

B1S3 temp is reduced from around 100C (212F) to around 60C (140F).
B1S1 was 36C (96F).
B1S2 was 56C (130F).

Next .... I am thinking about installing an interchiller to tackle the temperature issue once and for all.


Although I can feel the SC kicking in hard, I get some flashing check engine light. I'll wait for the HP tuner unit to arrive so that I can have clearer picture of what's going on.

Thanks for your support and I'll keep you posted.
Flashing check engine light is the engine detecting misfire. Make sure you’re running the highest octane you can and that ALL the air is out of the intercooler circuit. If that’s good look at plugs, coil packs, and wires.
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Old 01-06-2026, 09:01 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Larsson View Post
A quick update guys ....

I replaced the pump yesterday and it seems to be working fine. Also, I jumped K6 relay to test it while the car is off and was OK.

B1S3 temp is reduced from around 100C (212F) to around 60C (140F).
B1S1 was 36C (96F).
B1S2 was 56C (130F).

Next .... I am thinking about installing an interchiller to tackle the temperature issue once and for all.


Although I can feel the SC kicking in hard, I get some flashing check engine light. I'll wait for the HP tuner unit to arrive so that I can have clearer picture of what's going on.

Thanks for your support and I'll keep you posted.
True story: I recently drove around my ZL1 as an SS for a day due to a supercharger accessory drive pulley not being able to be mounted on. The air temperature readouts were actually worse even without the blower sapping parasitic power from the engine by not being connected. The intercooler pump works and it works REAL well for our set ups.

I would not run an interchiller personally, especially if you street it. It adds a lot of complexity and there is too much room for it to fail.

If all is back to normal based on the temps you posted, I would call that a win and I would not change or add anything further. I would just get back to enjoying it.
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2017 Red Hot ZL1 A10 - Apex ARC-8's, 305/ 325 PS4's, DSX 9.06 12% lower, Griptec OE upper, NGK HR7 Ruthenium plugs, Nostrum 25+ injectors, XDI Goliath HPFP, Katech dual in tank LPFP, Katech oil pump, LME tensioner, DOD delete, LT1 big fuel cam, Jokerz ported blower, MPI lid, GMS hood extractor bracket, Granatelli SS plug wires, Cordes LTR reservoir, DMS T-stat housing, 186* LS3 T-stat, Borla X pipe, Black Widow Angry Housewife/ Corsa NPP mufflers, BMR engine mounts, Banks iDash, Lithium Battery, AEM X- Series, HP Tuners, E85, 16.5 psi
758 HP/ 804 TQ

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Old 01-12-2026, 04:26 PM   #26
Chris Larsson
 
Drives: Camaro 2017 ZL1
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Location: Lima
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A quick updater about the SC issue.

I logged a couple of runs using mpvi4 and found that there are misfires on cylinders 1-4 with #3 having most of the counts.

MAP is maxed at 24 PSI!!

I am afraid that there is a ground issue not an engine issue.
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Old 01-12-2026, 04:50 PM   #27
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Looks like 33.6 kpa
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