[Dardecor]

Hey guys,

I'm thinking about Eibach Lowering Springs for my 2018 A10 ZL1. I'm wondering how these do for track days if anyone has any experience. I road course my vehicle and I plan on maybe getting 17x10 rears for drag racing.

I'm just wondering if anyone that actually takes their car to track days has had any issues after doing lowering springs?

[pbSS]

While I don't have a ZL1, I had 3 track days on my SS 1LE with the Eibach Pro and they were good. They are a hair softer up front and a hair stiffer in the rear (but progressive), how much difference that translates to real world? I don't know, I'm not a Randy Probst and I'm also not pushing my car 10/10 yet. I don't know what the OEM spring rates for the ZL1 are and how the ZL1 specific Eibach springs compare....if you email them, they'll provide the info. On their website it shows that they only lower the car 0.4", so keep that in mind if you're doing it for looks too and that way you can weigh the pros/cons of lowering the car that little vs any affect on track (better or worse).

You'll get a ton of responses from guys, ranging from "don't you ever touch anything on these cars, they're perfect specimens from the factory", to "coilovers or bust", to "they suck". Reality is it will vary....I've heard guys improve their track times and also guys complaining about issues they caused. We all drive different setups on different tracks with different experience levels, so keep that in mind too.

I'd suggest just trying them and decide for yourself. Make sure you get an alignment and you can also "reset" the MRC trim sensor.

[Dardecor]

Originally Posted by pbSS

While I don't have a ZL1, I had 3 track days on my SS 1LE with the Eibach Pro and they were good. They are a hair softer up front and a hair stiffer in the rear (but progressive), how much difference that translates to real world? I don't know, I'm not a Randy Probst and I'm also not pushing my car 10/10 yet. I don't know what the OEM spring rates for the ZL1 are and how the ZL1 specific Eibach springs compare....if you email them, they'll provide the info. On their website it shows that they only lower the car 0.4", so keep that in mind if you're doing it for looks too and that way you can weigh the pros/cons of lowering the car that little vs any affect on track (better or worse).

You'll get a ton of responses from guys, ranging from "don't you ever touch anything on these cars, they're perfect specimens from the factory", to "coilovers or bust", to "they suck". Reality is it will vary....I've heard guys improve their track times and also guys complaining about issues they caused. We all drive different setups on different tracks with different experience levels, so keep that in mind too.

Thank for the feedback. I'm probably gonna go with these then

[Apexslayer]

What are you trying to achieve by using lowering springs?

[Dardecor]

Originally Posted by Apexslayer

What are you trying to achieve by using lowering springs?

I'm trying to close some of the wheel gap. It seems huge from the factory

[cdb95z28]

Take note of this thread, where it relates to the details involved when changing ride height:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...php?p=11451386

[Apexslayer]

Originally Posted by Dardecor

I'm trying to close some of the wheel gap. It seems huge from the factory

If you are trying to close the fender gap, then I can't argue with that. I would go ahead.

However, if you were trying to improve a specific aspect of the cars handling or trying to gain a specific improvement in laps times I would encourage you to tread carefully (I'm an old-school track instructor who's a fan of first putting more $$ into the driver and less into car modifications. Only once driver is extracting current platform then put $$ into car. And yes, i know thats an old school philosophy :-))

[Dardecor]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Take note of this thread, where it relates to the details involved when changing ride height:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...php?p=11451386

Well that thread is discouraging. I love how my car handles now and if it changes that too much, I'm sure it would drive me crazy enough to go back to stock. Decisions decisions

[Dardecor]

Originally Posted by Apexslayer

If you are trying to close the fender gap, then I can't argue with that. I would go ahead.

However, if you were trying to improve a specific aspect of the cars handling or trying to gain a specific improvement in laps times I would encourage you to tread carefully (I'm an old-school track instructor who's a fan of first putting more $$ into the driver and less into car modifications. Only once driver is extracting current platform then put $$ into car. And yes, i know thats an old school philosophy :-))

I agree with your philosophy and all of my track instructors have said the same. The best mod is driver mod . The lowering springs would really be for cosmetics, but I wouldn't want to take away from the performance too much.

The only mod I'm considering for the track is SPL Toe Rods for the eccentric lockout + camber and a rear cradle lockout (i experience a decent amount of wheel hop). Thoughts?

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Dardecor

I agree with your philosophy and all of my track instructors have said the same. The best mod is driver mod . The lowering springs would really be for cosmetics, but I wouldn't want to take away from the performance too much.

The only mod I'm considering for the track is SPL Toe Rods for the eccentric lockout + camber and a rear cradle lockout (i experience a decent amount of wheel hop). Thoughts?

Rear cradle lockout is a MUST mod for this vehicle.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Dardecor

Well that thread is discouraging. I love how my car handles now and if it changes that too much, I'm sure it would drive me crazy enough to go back to stock. Decisions decisions

I think if the details are tended too, the drop springs can be done correctly. I'm not saying the handling still wouldn't be as good or better than the OE 1LE setup. But, at least it won't be degraded to the point of disgust. Something in that link I didn't get deep on was how the anti roll bars are affected by a change in ride height. The front bar mount is actually glued tight to the bar. The rear is not glued but it still has a super tight grip. Both by design from GM, adding a little stiffness to the bar’s rate. When the ride height is changed, guess what, now the bar’s preload has changed, causing unintended consequences. Adjustable endlinks can matter here.

Originally Posted by Dardecor

I agree with your philosophy and all of my track instructors have said the same. The best mod is driver mod . The lowering springs would really be for cosmetics, but I wouldn't want to take away from the performance too much.

The only mod I'm considering for the track is SPL Toe Rods for the eccentric lockout + camber and a rear cradle lockout (i experience a decent amount of wheel hop). Thoughts?

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Rear cradle lockout is a MUST mod for this vehicle.

The SPL toe rods plus lockout is a great choice. I think the OE arm is excellent, as it also has spherical joints, but it's that undersized eccentric bolt that is the weak link.

When I had my Gen5 SS 1LE I installed solid cradle mounts, it was a massive difference. First part I bought before I even had taken delivery of my Gen6 was the ZLE solid cradle mounts. Definitely a MUST mod.

[red6.2]

if you want to have a faster car, do not get the springs. If you are a novice driver, and just want the close the wheel gap, go for it.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by red6.2

if you want to have a faster car, do not get the springs. If you are a novice driver, and just want the close the wheel gap, go for it.

To add, if you are a novice driver and have every intention to become an advanced driver, leave you car alone. Tires, fluids, alignment, brakes, repeat.

[Sweet Emotion]

Watch this video which confirms GM knew what they were doing engineering 1LEs.

The owner of this vehicle put lowering springs which essentially made it worse...