[Spaceme1117]

Originally Posted by Sephx1

Thanks, will report back. Read through the install instructions which say to drain the coolant. Not sure why as none of the steps mention opening up the cooling system. Can anyone confirm if this needs to be done or not?

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/MM010.pdf

Was wondering the same thing from reading the instructions. Near the end it says to re-fill the coolant but it never says anywhere in the instructions to actually drain the coolant.

Anyone who has done this install, did you actually drain the coolant or did you need to disconnect the oil cooler pipe? (Is that maybe why the coolant needs to be drained?)

[Trochoidal]

Originally Posted by Sephx1

Thanks, will report back. Read through the install instructions which say to drain the coolant. Not sure why as none of the steps mention opening up the cooling system. Can anyone confirm if this needs to be done or not?

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/MM010.pdf

IIRC, taking that cooler line off made it easier to get the stock mount out. Plus the coolant bath helps loosen some of the dirt off your hands, arms and face!

[Sephx1]

Got this project done tonight in about 4 hours. Yes, cooler lines need to come off. It’s an oil cooler on the side of the pan that’s a heat exchanger that’s why the coolant needs to be drained. I was able to get them both out in one piece, and didn’t need to unplug the A/C or remove the starter heat shield. Raising the motor is the key to getting them out. Installing them is pretty straightforward. A small 1/4” ratchet with a short handle was the most valuable tool on the job, lots of turning bolts in very tight spaces.

Unfortunately a dust storm kicked up just as I finished and I wasn’t able to drive it. I’m leaving town tomorrow for a couple days so the test drive is going to have to wait.

[laynlo15]

Did you get a weight difference? Should have been over 12 lbs difference.

[Sephx1]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Did you get a weight difference? Should have been over 12 lbs difference.

I didn’t but it I don’t think they are drastically lighter.

[Sephx1]

I got back in town last night and this morning I had a chance to take it for a test drive. Here are my impressions:

NVH was nonexistent in the steering wheel and everywhere except the shifter and floor which I could feel in the seat. Only at idle. My car is cammed with an aluminum flywheel which I’m sure contributes to this. Still, it’s not much and certainly not bothersome. There is zero NVH while driving at any speed.

The throttle response is great. As others have said shifts are more precise. The clutch does have more feel to it which is a plus.

If you can put up with the ride of the ZLE these should not be a problem for you. Especially with a stock cam and clutch.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by Sephx1

Got this project done tonight in about 4 hours. Yes, cooler lines need to come off. It’s an oil cooler on the side of the pan that’s a heat exchanger that’s why the coolant needs to be drained. I was able to get them both out in one piece, and didn’t need to unplug the A/C or remove the starter heat shield. Raising the motor is the key to getting them out. Installing them is pretty straightforward. A small 1/4” ratchet with a short handle was the most valuable tool on the job, lots of turning bolts in very tight spaces.

Unfortunately a dust storm kicked up just as I finished and I wasn’t able to drive it. I’m leaving town tomorrow for a couple days so the test drive is going to have to wait.

Hang on, is that a zip tie on the transmission cooler line bracket which ultimately is tied up to the wiring harness?

[Sephx1]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

Hang on, is that a zip tie on the transmission cooler line bracket which ultimately is tied up to the wiring harness?

It’s tied to the battery starter cable which is pretty stout right there. It’s not very tight, I just put it on there to keep it from flopping around in the breeze until I can come up with a better solution.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by Sephx1

It’s tied to the battery starter cable which is pretty stout right there. It’s not very tight, I just put it on there to keep it from flopping around in the breeze until I can come up with a better solution.

I left mine off entirely. I called BMR at the time to ask what their solution was and they said to leave it as is. They said those metal lines will not pose an issue now or down the road. IF you do come up with something, be sure to let me know, please!