[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Good stuff Josh, wasn't your 2.9 in the mid 900 rwhp?

Thanks Greg! Yeah. Best run was 955 WHP after Kong porting with the 2.9. And that sucker was maxed out…it would take a 6 gallon batch of ice water and make it hot in one pass! IATs would climb 20+ degrees during a run even with the ice tank. Now at 1059 WHP with the 3.0 and I could do 3-4 runs on the ice tank and still not be hot. The efficiency and cooling improvements are unbelievable. So I gained 104 WHP on the same dyno using the same pulley combo. Tough to beat that.

[KingLT1]

Solid results!

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Solid results!

[adamjwilson]

Congrats Josh!

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by adamjwilson

Congrats Josh!

[Chrome383Z]

Nice Josh! Do any pulls with the smooth boost dialed down? Curious what you would see at the lowest setting. I’m at 650 now and no way am I going for more without a simple way to dial it down so I don’t blow the tires off trying to pass someone at 55mph. lol

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Chrome383Z

Nice Josh! Do any pulls with the smooth boost dialed down? Curious what you would see at the lowest setting. I’m at 650 now and no way am I going for more without a simple way to dial it down so I don’t blow the tires off trying to pass someone at 55mph. lol

I did mess around with the boost knob as I wanted to creep up on my fuel situation. I’ve been driving around on the street with the boost knob at 50% until I could double check everything on the dyno. At that setting I made 12 psi and 808 WHP. It seemed like about all I wanted to use on the street lol! Turning the knob up to 75% yielded 16 psi and 957 WHP. Full tilt was 18 and change pounds (and 6.5 IPW…!) …so we ended up dialing down to 90% on the knob which was 18 psi flat and 1059 WHP. I haven’t tried it recently, but when I first put in the Smoothboost, having the knob all the way down was like 3 or 4 psi of boost…which is probably where I SHOULD run on the street…

Hope that helps. I LOVE the Smoothboost. Hopefully I’ll be able to do boost by gear with it at some point down the road too.

[laynlo15]

That's cool to have the boost controller, its just kinda expensive, my 707 is hard to control below 60 mph even on drag radials and my old Camaro at 850 was pretty dangerous. I'm actually just running my larger pulley on the street which is 677 rwhp and its still plenty fun and only 9.2 psi of boost, so very safe.

[Chrome383Z]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I did mess around with the boost knob as I wanted to creep up on my fuel situation. I’ve been driving around on the street with the boost knob at 50% until I could double check everything on the dyno. At that setting I made 12 psi and 808 WHP. It seemed like about all I wanted to use on the street lol! Turning the knob up to 75% yielded 16 psi and 957 WHP. Full tilt was 18 and change pounds (and 6.5 IPW…!) …so we ended up dialing down to 90% on the knob which was 18 psi flat and 1059 WHP. I haven’t tried it recently, but when I first put in the Smoothboost, having the knob all the way down was like 3 or 4 psi of boost…which is probably where I SHOULD run on the street…

Hope that helps. I LOVE the Smoothboost. Hopefully I’ll be able to do boost by gear with it at some point down the road too.

Awesome. This is on my mod list for sure!

[KingLT1]

The smooth boost seems pretty cool. The only issue I see with having an aggressive pulley combination and the smooth boost is you are just capping off the amount of peak boost. The tq is still going to come in very early and aggressive on the hit like a light switch vs using larger pulleys to slow down how fast the supercharger ramps up.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

The smooth boost seems pretty cool. The only issue I see with having an aggressive pulley combination and the smooth boost is you are just capping off the amount of peak boost. The tq is still going to come in very early and aggressive on the hit like a light switch vs using larger pulleys to slow down how fast the supercharger ramps up.

I prefer running the larger pulley on the street, I've swapped them so many times at the track and on the dyno it just takes 5 minutes to switch them with my 1/4" battery power ratchet, I never even have to release the tensioner during the swap. One man band. Its still very aggressive even with the larger pulley but so much fun. Just can't take the traction control off.

[Joshinator99]

Saw an interesting comment today from a Whipple employee on LSX Magazine. Looks like the days of 18K max blower RPM for Whipple blowers in cars is gone with the new rotor pack thankfully. Good to know I can dial this bad boy up once I get some more fuel.

“For the supercharger, we go by maximum supercharger input RPM to set a safe limit for those reaching for the sky. For our superchargers, 18,000 input RPM is max for sustained usage such as in a marine application where WOT can be for minutes at a time. In automotive racing applications, they can tolerate up to 22-24k for short bursts. To calculate blower input RPM, you divide the driven crank pulley diameter by the supercharger pulley diameter, then multiply that value by your peak engine speed. An example of this would be: (8.00/3.25)*7,500 = 18,462 input rpm,” Purciello says.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Saw an interesting comment today from a Whipple employee on LSX Magazine. Looks like the days of 18K blower RPM for Whipple blowers in cars is gone thankfully. Good to know I can dial this bad boy up once I get some more fuel.

“For the supercharger, we go by maximum supercharger input RPM to set a safe limit for those reaching for the sky. For our superchargers, 18,000 input RPM is max for sustained usage such as in a marine application where WOT can be for minutes at a time. In automotive racing applications, they can tolerate up to 22-24k for short bursts. To calculate blower input RPM, you divide the driven crank pulley diameter by the supercharger pulley diameter, then multiply that value by your peak engine speed. An example of this would be: (8.00/3.25)*7,500 = 18,462 input rpm,” Purciello says.

Makes me wonder if it has always been the same guidance where 18k is sustained RPM, but it could handle higher bursts for drag racing.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

Makes me wonder if it has always been the same guidance where 18k is sustained RPM, but it could handle higher bursts for drag racing.

I don’t think so since in a 5/3 rotor pack 18,000 RPM on the 5 rotor is 30,000 RPM on the 3 rotor (which is vaporized bearing dust at that level in sustained operation lol). With the 4/3 rotor pack, the small rotor is now 24,000 RPM which is sustainable within reason and can survive a short burst over that.