[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JSH

If I'm reading this correctly, EMP is the choice.

It probably is, BUT keep in mind you’re NEVER getting 30+ GPM through 3/4” or 1” hose…the pressure to do that would be more than any of these pumps can do. But if you can get 15 GPM, that will rock and roll.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

It probably is, BUT keep in mind you’re NEVER getting 30+ GPM through 3/4” or 1” hose…the pressure to do that would be more than any of these pumps can do. But if you can get 15 GPM, that will rock and roll.

Hell, I'm shooting for just 10gpm. I have discovered that my current Davies Craig EWP150 - 12V 150LPM/40GPM REMOTE ELECTRIC WATER PUMP (#8160) does not currently have its programmable controller installed on my car. So, I'm ordering it.

I'm not sure how many feet of line were used in their test, if any, but this is a popular pump and should flow 10gpm at least.

[KingLT1]

That 2650 is working a lot harder in that thin air. I can see in the log that it's past it's efficiency range because it's making peak grams/cylinder at the hit then tapering off up top. That is how stock blowers act turned up. My brothers 2650 on his C7Z at 18psi increases grams/cyl through the entire pull. But it's probably not spinning as hard to make the boost.

My guess is if you were at sea level then it would be making 23-24psi. So, 140 isn't bad based on that. I just thought you might have had air in the system when it hit 180+ on 2 different pulls.

My advice would be to run the 3.0 on the street and use the small pulley at the track with ICE.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

That 2650 is working a lot harder in that thin air. I can see in the log that it's past it's efficiency range because it's making peak grams/cylinder at the hit then tapering off up top. That is how stock blowers act turned up. My brothers 2650 on his C7Z at 18psi increases grams/cyl through the entire pull. But it's probably not spinning as hard to make the boost.

My guess is if you were at sea level then it would be making 23-24psi. So, 140 isn't bad based on that. I just thought you might have had air in the system when it hit 180+ on 2 different pulls.

My advice would be to run the 3.0 on the street and use the small pulley at the track with ICE.

Agree. We're going to ensure that it's moving at least 10 gpm thru the blower, and then put the 3" back on it until the track reopens in March. We just bought Davies Craig pump controller that provides the features we need to get the intercooler running earlier and harder, and turn on some fans on the factory heat exchanger.

[CamOnlyJabroni]

I have a 12 GPM pump on the ZL1 and ZO6. 2650 on the C7Z runs 120-140 in 60 and below outside temps and 140-150 in the summer. During pulls MAT drop 1-2 degrees or rise 1-2 feeling on air conditions. It stays cool until it’s driven through the city then heats up. Temps steadily drop on the highway and will drop to around 130 even in the summer. Many cooling mods. With that, I got a new lid for the 2650 from DSX Tuning. Supposed to really bring out the blower whine. Only weighs like 7 pounds. I had Dave laser engrave the factory ZL1 blower lid design. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Putting it on tomorrow.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by CamOnlyJabroni

I have a 12 GPM pump on the ZL1 and ZO6. 2650 on the C7Z runs 120-140 in 60 and below outside temps and 140-150 in the summer. During pulls MAT drop 1-2 degrees or rise 1-2 feeling on air conditions. It stays cool until it’s driven through the city then heats up. Temps steadily drop on the highway and will drop to around 130 even in the summer. Many cooling mods. With that, I got a new lid for the 2650 from DSX Tuning. Supposed to really bring out the blower whine. Only weighs like 7 pounds. I had Dave laser engrave the factory ZL1 blower lid design. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Putting it on tomorrow.

Lots of good info here.

With a 3" upper, mine cruises at 104F and reaches 115 as it coasts after a pull. No problem here.

With a 2.75" upper, it cruises at 90F and hits 140 at redline.

You say lots of cooling mods, what are they? Mine is just a 7.5 gal tank with Davies Craig 8160 pump. We'll see how much the fan and pump controller helps shortly.

Is your new lid just for sound or does it also help with heat?

[JSH]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

My guess is if you were at sea level then it would be making 23-24psi. So, 140 isn't bad based on that.

The 140 doesn't bother me now at 55F ambient, but March at 80F could get dicey.

[CamOnlyJabroni]

Originally Posted by JSH

Lots of good info here.

With a 3" upper, mine cruises at 104F and reaches 115 as it coasts after a pull. No problem here.

With a 2.75" upper, it cruises at 90F and hits 140 at redline.

You say lots of cooling mods, what are they? Mine is just a 7.5 gal tank with Davies Craig 8160 pump. We'll see how much the fan and pump controller helps shortly.

Is your new lid just for sound or does it also help with heat?

Unrelated somewhat since the 2650 car is a vette:
-Cordes Heat Exchanger
-Auxiliary Radiator
-LPE Expansion Tank
-Katech 160 thermostat
-12GPM intercooler pump
-radiator shroud pulled
-cowl panel weatherstripping pulled
-ACS Hood Vents
-Water Wetter in HX and Engine Coolant

I’m thinking the lid may shed heat faster since it’s a lot thinner and not thick cast aluminum. Definitely a sound mod more than anything.

Here is a link to a AMP built car with it on.
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRQjV5hC/

[JSH]

Related because most of these can be applied to a ZL1.

I'm posting the dyno sheets, using the larger 3" upper and everything else is the same, two hp curves and two tq curves [he could improve his color choices here], the higher numbers were with ice in the tank.

I'll do the same with my current 2.75" upper build after I figure out how to increase gpm thru the intercooler.

The main point is, I can't carry ice around so I have to cool things down a bit.

Originally Posted by CamOnlyJabroni

Unrelated somewhat since the 2650 car is a vette:
-Cordes Heat Exchanger
-Auxiliary Radiator
-LPE Expansion Tank
-Katech 160 thermostat
-12GPM intercooler pump
-radiator shroud pulled
-cowl panel weatherstripping pulled
-ACS Hood Vents
-Water Wetter in HX and Engine Coolant

I’m thinking the lid may shed heat faster since it’s a lot thinner and not thick cast aluminum. Definitely a sound mod more than anything.

Here is a link to a AMP built car with it on.
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRQjV5hC/

[JSH]

The pump manufacturer says I need 1" ID lines to/from the tank, preferably flexible aluminum or braided PVC tubing, which I had not considered.

[JSH]

Here's today's log, w/ice

Cruised at 72F and MAT got to 131F at the shift. Shouldn't be so high. Going to install larger water lines.

Looks like it made 21# boost and would gain around 3# at sea level, and would likely be even hotter

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JSH

Here's today's log, w/ice

Cruised at 72F and MAT got to 131F at the shift. Shouldn't be so high. Going to install larger water lines.

Or a pump that pushes with more differential pressure…

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Or a pump that pushes with more differential pressure…

Which pump are you using?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JSH

Which pump are you using?

I’m currently running the Varimax that comes with the Whipple kit plus a stock LT4 intercooler pump back at the ice tank. Definitely not enough flow. I bought a Pierburg CWA150 that will be going on this winter. The Pierburg one pushes a ton of differential pressure so it can over come lines that are smaller than ideal.

If that doesn’t cut it I guess I’ll get in line for the Stewart one.