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Old 07-11-2022, 08:58 PM   #15
ZLRob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiqTenExp View Post
I run 93 octane on H/C/LT setup with a TVS 2300 blower.

I had plenty of fuel left with my 2300 using a JMS FuelMax to boost the stock pump on the low side and a cam with larger fuel lobe supporting the high side. The JMS FuelMax really promoted nice stable low side pressures.

I added 50/50 water meth system to cool down the IAT and get a little more octane. This enabled me to run some more timing (2-3 degrees), fight off high IAT2, and also resulted in a little less fuel demand on the stock injectors. I'm currently at <4.8 ms injector pulse width, >70 psi low side, and > 3400 psi high side - all good things. I'm hoping to swap to a 2650 this year. I will likely be safely at the limit fuel wise, hopefully (would like to hear feedback from other experienced 2650 users responding to this thread).

You'll need one of the A10 guys in here to comment about the auto transmission, I have no experience here on this platform. I'm M6 and even the stock clutch was holding with this power, I now have McLeod RTX though.
3400 psi sounds a bit high. How long have you been running. It like that?

I was always under the impression that ideal DI fuel pressures should not exceed 2,9xx psi. At least on this application. Of course I don't claim myself to be an expert on DI subject matter by any means whatsoever so maybe someone else will chime in regarding that.

Whatever the case is, it sounds like you have a hell of a build!
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2017 Red Hot ZL1 A10 - Apex ARC-8's, 305/ 325 PS4's, DSX 9.06 12% lower, Griptec OE upper, NGK HR7 Ruthenium plugs, Nostrum 25+ injectors, XDI Goliath HPFP, Katech dual in tank LPFP, Katech oil pump, LME tensioner, DOD delete, LT1 big fuel cam, Jokerz ported blower, MPI lid, GMS hood extractor bracket, Granatelli SS plug wires, Cordes LTR reservoir, DMS T-stat housing, 186* LS3 T-stat, Borla X pipe, Black Widow Angry Housewife/ Corsa NPP mufflers, BMR engine mounts, Banks iDash, Lithium Battery, AEM X- Series, HP Tuners, E85, 16.5 psi
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Old 07-11-2022, 09:06 PM   #16
LiqTenExp

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZLRob View Post
3400 psi sounds a bit high. How long have you been running. It like that?

I was always under the impression that ideal DI fuel pressures should not exceed 2,9xx psi. At least on this application. Of course I don't claim myself to be an expert on DI subject matter by any means whatsoever so maybe someone else will chime in regarding that.

Whatever the case is, it sounds like you have a hell of a build!
That kind of pressure is only seen on the dyno at full load, cruising on the highway I would expect 1000-1500 psi. I'm using the bone stock pump that came with the car and a pretty standard +32% fuel lobe on the cam. Picture shows fueling during typical 4th gear pull from 2300 rpm to 7000 rpm. Another picture is my desired fuel pressure table. Initial tuner set it as shown, I've taken over the tune for the past few years and just left it alone, did not seems to hurt anything. Car has run like this for 4 years ~14k miles.

You will go from like 0.3g to >1.5g airmass in less than 0.5 seconds going WOT from a 50 mph roll (M6). Aka you'll ride the bottom row of that chart during WOT.

Attached is delta to a stock ZL1 tune, looking down there appears to be a little bit of a oopsie math wise at 3600rpm @0.79 g, oh well, not going to really make any difference, I will blend it back in. This is one of the few tables I had not poked since I took over tuning the car.
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Old 07-11-2022, 09:45 PM   #17
Camaroking98
 
Drives: 2019 ZL1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiqTenExp View Post
I run 93 octane on H/C/LT setup with a TVS 2300 blower.

I had plenty of fuel left with my 2300 using a JMS FuelMax to boost the stock pump on the low side and a cam with larger fuel lobe supporting the high side. The JMS FuelMax really promoted nice stable low side pressures.

I added 50/50 water meth system to cool down the IAT and get a little more octane. This enabled me to run some more timing (2-3 degrees), fight off high IAT2, and also resulted in a little less fuel demand on the stock injectors. I'm currently at <4.8 ms injector pulse width, >70 psi low side, and > 3400 psi high side - all good things. I'm hoping to swap to a 2650 this year. I will likely be safely at the limit fuel wise, hopefully (would like to hear feedback from other experienced 2650 users responding to this thread).

You'll need one of the A10 guys in here to comment about the auto transmission, I have no experience here on this platform. I'm M6 and even the stock clutch was holding with this power, I now have McLeod RTX though.
So maybe I just go with the 2300? Seems like you've had a really safe build and you're making about my overall end goal power (850whp) with your build.

How much does the fuel system you setup cost? Parts & Labor?

Also for the IAT's that I'd run into down the line I was thinking interchiller like the dude from CSP in PA on youtube.

Thoughts on all that?
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Old 07-11-2022, 09:59 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Camaroking98 View Post
So maybe I just go with the 2300? Seems like you've had a really safe build and you're making about my overall end goal power (850whp) with your build.

How much does the fuel system you setup cost? Parts & Labor?

Also for the IAT's that I'd run into down the line I was thinking interchiller like the dude from CSP in PA on youtube.

Thoughts on all that?
I'd go 2650 and be future proof. If you aren't installing... the cost to go 2650 vs 2300 is all the same minus the mods to the valve covers cost on a 2650 install.

You'd have to see what your local installer wants for cam install, will be $X,XXX depending on how far you take it. Way too many variables there to even guess. More than 2k and less than 10k parts/labor. All kinds of things to consider with lifters/trays, dod delete kit, valve springs, pushrods, gaskets of all kinds, timing chain, vvt delete, head studs, etc, etc.

I installed the JMS FuelMax, I have a thread you can search for on it so I don't have a price to quote you for install. Probably took me a few hours because I created some proper cables/connectors vs. cutting wires.

JMS FuelMax thread: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=569721

I do think we answered your original question, don't want this thread to run away too far LOL
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Old 07-11-2022, 10:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiqTenExp View Post
I'd go 2650 and be future proof. If you aren't installing... the cost to go 2650 vs 2300 is all the same minus the mods to the valve covers cost on a 2650 install.

You'd have to see what your local installer wants for cam install, will be $X,XXX depending on how far you take it. Way too many variables there to even guess. More than 2k and less than 10k parts/labor. All kinds of things to consider with lifters/trays, dod delete kit, valve springs, pushrods, gaskets of all kinds, timing chain, vvt delete, head studs, etc, etc.

I installed the JMS FuelMax, I have a thread you can search for on it so I don't have a price to quote you for install. Probably took me a few hours because I created some proper cables/connectors vs. cutting wires.

JMS FuelMax thread: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=569721

I do think we answered your original question, don't want this thread to run away too far LOL
haha gotcha gotcha. I do have the cam and all that so far. fbo + cam + ported blower.
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