Catch Can on 800-1000HP

Rickdickulous504 · 08-11-2020, 09:07 PM

Looking for advise from you guys in the high HP range. What Catch Can/Cans are y’all using with your set up. I am a 416 stroker ,ported blower , 9.1 lower pulley and 2.30 upper pulley, 2’’ headers intake BTR stage 3 cam, 103 TB. Any help is appreciated thanks

*Joshinator99* · 08-11-2020, 09:55 PM

Mighty Mouse Wild with -12AN hose setup here, supposedly good for 1200HP. Nice build quality too.

newchevyman · 08-11-2020, 11:40 PM

Just curious, what's the reason to run a stock blower on a 416?

Rickdickulous504 · 08-12-2020, 10:05 AM

Building on a budget. Had cracked piston skirt so instead of rebuilding it i had it bored and stroked. Ill eventually get a new blower but i already had mine ported so I’m working with what i have.

*radz28* · 08-12-2020, 11:19 AM

Elite Engineering Dual Port (new version) here. I haven't had it on the car for but maybe a couple hundred miles, but was happy with the kit. I had to make a mount because I wanted it in front of the engine (just to the passenger's side of the blower pulley), but so-far-so-good. I haven't checked to see what it has yet caught, but I have an oil change due, and will check then. I expect I'll have some mist residue, but a lot of that 200-miles was a lot of WOT, so we'll see. There was enough hose to route it the way I wanted to. The only little tangle I found was it took a little extra effort/time to find the correct "T" (a brass "T" and adapter from Amazon to get it to work) for the intake elbow for the OEM-line and the second vent connection for the catch can. It was worth the energy to do it, as I'm completely happy with it now.

20Bluezl1 · 08-12-2020, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radz28

Elite Engineering Dual Port (new version) here. I haven't had it on the car for but maybe a couple hundred miles, but was happy with the kit. I had to make a mount because I wanted it in front of the engine (just to the passenger's side of the blower pulley), but so-far-so-good. I haven't checked to see what it has yet caught, but I have an oil change due, and will check then. I expect I'll have some mist residue, but a lot of that 200-miles was a lot of WOT, so we'll see. There was enough hose to route it the way I wanted to. The only little tangle I found was it took a little extra effort/time to find the correct "T" (a brass "T" and adapter from Amazon to get it to work) for the intake elbow for the OEM-line and the second vent connection for the catch can. It was worth the energy to do it, as I'm completely happy with it now.

Is that the Elite E2-X can ? Or the ultra ?

*radz28* · 08-12-2020, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1

Is that the Elite E2-X can ? Or the ultra ?

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/e2-catch-can/

That's what's in the picture I attached. I don't see an Ultra, but I am pretty slow, ha.

20Bluezl1 · 08-12-2020, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radz28

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/e2-catch-can/

That's what's in the picture I attached. I don't see an Ultra, but I am pretty slow, ha.

Ok so I believe you have the older E2 catch can which it was updated to the E2-X not sure whats the difference. The E2-X also comes in a ultra which is bigger so you hqve more air flow and volume to collect.

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/e2-x-catch-cans/

*radz28* · 08-13-2020, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1

Ok so I believe you have the older E2 catch can which it was updated to the E2-X not sure whats the difference. The E2-X also comes in a ultra which is bigger so you hqve more air flow and volume to collect.

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/e2-x-catch-cans/

I've assumed I had the newer design as the website said "NEW" but I don't really know. Regardless - I imagine the design you're talking about is at least as good. These are not empty-Chinesium metal boxes with tubes running into them (I've had those, too, in the past...), so I'm sure it's six-of-one.

A lot of people swear by the MM-cans because of the venting features. I'm not sure what I make of that, but it seems that if you start with something that breathes well, and traps oil-laden vapor, then you're on the right track. I'm running about 14-15-psi, so anything that will help capture more junk is okay in my book

ZX-10R · 08-13-2020, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radz28

I had to make a mount because I wanted it in front of the engine (just to the passenger's side of the blower pulley), but so-far-so-good.

Elite has a front mount bracket now, they sent me one for free a couple of months ago

Elite proves their can works, as well as video proof from members on this forum. I have yet to see any proof the MM comes close in performance

SJFGTO · 08-13-2020, 12:02 PM

I believe a catch can is an excellent mod. I have the elite on my mildly modified engine. Every oil change at 3000 miles is also when I empty my catch can. I find 2 or 3 table spoons of oil every time. On a DI engine especially, its good to know the CC is doing its job.

*radz28* · 08-13-2020, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZX-10R

Elite has a front mount bracket now, they sent me one for free a couple of months ago

Elite proves their can works, as well as video proof from members on this forum. I have yet to see any proof the MM comes close in performance

I didn't get that bracket, and I wasn't sure I was supposed to. Fortunately, I was able to fab' something up. Maybe I should hit them up. I received a bracket, but it seemed like it was for the strut tower...

Quote:

Originally Posted by SJFGTO

I believe a catch can is an excellent mod. I have the elite on my mildly modified engine. Every oil change at 3000 miles is also when I empty my catch can. I find 2 or 3 table spoons of oil every time. On a DI engine especially, its good to know the CC is doing its job.

Precisely why I followed suit, too.

Choda · 08-13-2020, 12:20 PM

I have a huge custom aluminum tank/catch can with -12 from each valve cover and 3/8 from the valley cover. My tuner said let these babies breathe. I do need to baffle the inside because after some autocross or heavy braking the vapors fill the breather and eventually drip a small amount of oil onto the top of the catch can.

Elite Engineering · 08-13-2020, 02:32 PM

radz28

Good to hear all is well. And yes, the Ultra E2-X is what is needed when over 12-14#. Your system is fine.

For others wondering, we can go over the list of features, function, and more but easiest is to focus on these few:

The E2, E2000 and E2-X series all can be used for a GDI engine. For forced induction to 10-12# the E2-X, and above 12# the Ultra is really the best design to deal with the challenges. Email direct for ANY questions before ordering so we match the right system and options for the build:
Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com and our Engineering and support team will assist and answer any questions. We really want ALL to understand whats involved instead of just "Buy it because we say" Or "So and so has one so I am buying one".

So, here are the main differences:

Our dual valve systems provide FULL time evacuation suction on the crankcase. Only evacuating part time and then allowing pressure to build and vent is never good for any internal combustion engine. That is technology that has NOT been used since the mid 1960's except by those making assumptions and not understanding the critical functions of pulling full time suction on the crankcase so pressure can't build to begin with.

Effectiveness. Our E2-X series holds a US patent and is the most effective on the market period trapping on average 95%. This is no idle boast, it has been demonstrated and proven time and time again. But we still openly challenge ANY other design to a head to head test as we have shared on a regular basis. Take ANY other can and install it on your engine. Then from the other cans outlet, install OUR E2-X can. So we are only getting the vapors that have already passed through the other can first and it has done its best job at separating the substances (water/acids/oil/raw fuel/abrasive soot/ash/carbon) you do NOT want ingested. Starting with both cans clean and oil free, drive as you normally would so driving style is as close to the same throughout the test. 1000 miles minimum, 2000 miles is even more accurate. Then drain each and document what each caught. You will see we trap as much or MORE than the first can no matter who's design it is. This shows how ineffective 99% of all can designs are and do little to benefit the engine. Now clean both and swap so ours is first, and the other design second. Run the same miles and do your best to drive the same way for fairness and accuracy, and drain and see only drops get past ours. That should be all the proof anyone could want, but we provide many more benefits as well.

How it effects the engine oil and wear is also a big deal, and the only way to verify this is through oil analysis: Here is an example of a GDI engine making OVER 20# of boost (so it is subject to far more contamination than a non FI engine) with over 13,000 miles on the oil. As our systems provide full time evacuation (crankcase suction), we are constantly flushing and removing these before they have a chance to settle and mix with your oil. So greatly reducing wear and extending engine life. And it does not matter WHAT make of GDI engine you have, ALL suffer from the issues.

Read the lab techs comments. This is oil condition generally seen at 5k on a GDI engine, and this field tester is over 13,000 miles. NO other can design advertised here can accomplish this, but as we always urge, test for your self and see.

The E2-X Ultra system is good for 1,000 hp and more also.

Questions? Please ask and unlike ALL other designs/companies we are a company built and staffed by actual Engineers and constantly work with industry leaders with testing and R&D. And we share that data and information so members can learn and understand the why and how proper crankcase evacuation works and is critical.

Cheers!!

08-11-2020, 09:07 PM	#1
Rickdickulous504 Drives: 2018 Camaro ZL1 A10 Join Date: May 2018 Location: NOLA Posts: 3	Catch Can on 800-1000HP Looking for advise from you guys in the high HP range. What Catch Can/Cans are y’all using with your set up. I am a 416 stroker ,ported blower , 9.1 lower pulley and 2.30 upper pulley, 2’’ headers intake BTR stage 3 cam, 103 TB. Any help is appreciated thanks Last edited by Rickdickulous504; 08-11-2020 at 10:47 PM.

08-11-2020, 09:55 PM	#2
Joshinator99 Moderator Drives: 2017 Camaro 2SS A8 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: New Ipswich NH Posts: 6,338	Mighty Mouse Wild with -12AN hose setup here, supposedly good for 1200HP. Nice build quality too. Attached Images __________________ 2017 Chevy Camaro 2SS A8 Whipple 3.0, Mast Black Label heads, ATI 8L90, Fore triple in-tank pumps, 112mm TB, LPE +52% injectors & BB HPFP, TooHighPSI/Katech port injection, 15” conversion 1066 WHP STD/1027 SAE, 9.10@152.5 (new times coming)

08-11-2020, 11:40 PM	#3
newchevyman Drives: 2017 Camero ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Texas Posts: 130	Just curious, what's the reason to run a stock blower on a 416? __________________ 2017 ZL1 A10 Dyno/Quarter Mile/Dragy 9.71@141.2 MPH so far. 2007 Z06 H/C/I/E Half Mile - 169 MPH. Sold.

08-12-2020, 11:19 AM	#5
radz28 Petro-sexual Drives: Ultra-Grin Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Crazy Coast Posts: 15,851 View My Garage	Elite Engineering Dual Port (new version) here. I haven't had it on the car for but maybe a couple hundred miles, but was happy with the kit. I had to make a mount because I wanted it in front of the engine (just to the passenger's side of the blower pulley), but so-far-so-good. I haven't checked to see what it has yet caught, but I have an oil change due, and will check then. I expect I'll have some mist residue, but a lot of that 200-miles was a lot of WOT, so we'll see. There was enough hose to route it the way I wanted to. The only little tangle I found was it took a little extra effort/time to find the correct "T" (a brass "T" and adapter from Amazon to get it to work) for the intake elbow for the OEM-line and the second vent connection for the catch can. It was worth the energy to do it, as I'm completely happy with it now. Attached Images __________________ '20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs

08-13-2020, 12:02 PM	#11
SJFGTO Oh Oh it's Friday Night! Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Nightfall Gray Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Walton Woods Posts: 1,075	I believe a catch can is an excellent mod. I have the elite on my mildly modified engine. Every oil change at 3000 miles is also when I empty my catch can. I find 2 or 3 table spoons of oil every time. On a DI engine especially, its good to know the CC is doing its job. __________________ 2018 Camaro ZL1 1LE NFG; ARH 2” headers, catless mids, ARH full exhaust, Lingenfelter 18% lower pulley, ATI Harmonic Balancer, Roto-fab CAI, EE-catch can, TM ported TB, NX Lid, BMR strut tower brace. Aeroforce dual pod interceptor gauges. Tuned by Vengeance Racing!!! 644 HP @ 6250 rpm / 689 trq @ 3660 rpm Four that wanna own me Two that wanna stone me One says she's a friend of mine...

08-12-2020, 10:05 AM	#4
Rickdickulous504 Drives: 2018 Camaro ZL1 A10 Join Date: May 2018 Location: NOLA Posts: 3	Building on a budget. Had cracked piston skirt so instead of rebuilding it i had it bored and stroked. Ill eventually get a new blower but i already had mine ported so I’m working with what i have.

08-13-2020, 12:20 PM	#13
Choda Drives: Turbo 6.2 Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Buffalo Posts: 736	I have a huge custom aluminum tank/catch can with -12 from each valve cover and 3/8 from the valley cover. My tuner said let these babies breathe. I do need to baffle the inside because after some autocross or heavy braking the vapors fill the breather and eventually drip a small amount of oil onto the top of the catch can. __________________ 2016 Twin Turbo Camaro SS - 968hp/970tq 8.9@153 2018 LTZ Z71 Redline Silverado - 381hp/420tq 13.8@100

08-13-2020, 02:32 PM	#14
Elite Engineering Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Denver Posts: 1,383	radz28 Good to hear all is well. And yes, the Ultra E2-X is what is needed when over 12-14#. Your system is fine. For others wondering, we can go over the list of features, function, and more but easiest is to focus on these few: The E2, E2000 and E2-X series all can be used for a GDI engine. For forced induction to 10-12# the E2-X, and above 12# the Ultra is really the best design to deal with the challenges. Email direct for ANY questions before ordering so we match the right system and options for the build: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com and our Engineering and support team will assist and answer any questions. We really want ALL to understand whats involved instead of just "Buy it because we say" Or "So and so has one so I am buying one". So, here are the main differences: Our dual valve systems provide FULL time evacuation suction on the crankcase. Only evacuating part time and then allowing pressure to build and vent is never good for any internal combustion engine. That is technology that has NOT been used since the mid 1960's except by those making assumptions and not understanding the critical functions of pulling full time suction on the crankcase so pressure can't build to begin with. Effectiveness. Our E2-X series holds a US patent and is the most effective on the market period trapping on average 95%. This is no idle boast, it has been demonstrated and proven time and time again. But we still openly challenge ANY other design to a head to head test as we have shared on a regular basis. Take ANY other can and install it on your engine. Then from the other cans outlet, install OUR E2-X can. So we are only getting the vapors that have already passed through the other can first and it has done its best job at separating the substances (water/acids/oil/raw fuel/abrasive soot/ash/carbon) you do NOT want ingested. Starting with both cans clean and oil free, drive as you normally would so driving style is as close to the same throughout the test. 1000 miles minimum, 2000 miles is even more accurate. Then drain each and document what each caught. You will see we trap as much or MORE than the first can no matter who's design it is. This shows how ineffective 99% of all can designs are and do little to benefit the engine. Now clean both and swap so ours is first, and the other design second. Run the same miles and do your best to drive the same way for fairness and accuracy, and drain and see only drops get past ours. That should be all the proof anyone could want, but we provide many more benefits as well. How it effects the engine oil and wear is also a big deal, and the only way to verify this is through oil analysis: Here is an example of a GDI engine making OVER 20# of boost (so it is subject to far more contamination than a non FI engine) with over 13,000 miles on the oil. As our systems provide full time evacuation (crankcase suction), we are constantly flushing and removing these before they have a chance to settle and mix with your oil. So greatly reducing wear and extending engine life. And it does not matter WHAT make of GDI engine you have, ALL suffer from the issues. Read the lab techs comments. This is oil condition generally seen at 5k on a GDI engine, and this field tester is over 13,000 miles. NO other can design advertised here can accomplish this, but as we always urge, test for your self and see. The E2-X Ultra system is good for 1,000 hp and more also. Questions? Please ask and unlike ALL other designs/companies we are a company built and staffed by actual Engineers and constantly work with industry leaders with testing and R&D. And we share that data and information so members can learn and understand the why and how proper crankcase evacuation works and is critical. Cheers!!

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