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#155 |
![]() Drives: 2018 1SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Pa
Posts: 100
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So if I want to go the Borla route for removal of the secondary cats. I have to run the 60606 system for $600. I have to say, Borla should be a little ashamed of themselves for the prices they are asking.
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#156 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 3,041
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Agreed, but check with dynosteve at RDPstore.com, they will do their very best to make this as painless (wallet wise ) as possible!
![]() They did right by me.
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#157 |
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Not exactly, the 60606 mid pipes are designed to be used with one of their axle back exhausts, the back end of the 60606 are the same diameter as the stock exhaust so they won't just slide in and clamp into place.
Their axle backs are expanded on the forward end so they would slide over the back end of the 60606. That's not to say it can't be done/modified, but if you're gonna drop $600 I wouldn't want to have to go through all that modification to make it fit when you can just go to an exhaust shop have them cut the secondary's out and weld in some pipe for half the price. |
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#158 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: US
Posts: 3,794
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It’s a shame they’re not delivering a solution for us.
Maybe flowwnaster can put something together, they have been putting some neat products out lately..budget firlendly too
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#159 |
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Here's some pictures that show what I'm talking about.
Where the clamps are circled, the axle back slips over the stock exhaust. The mid pipes are designed to slip inside of the axle back. If you tried to pair the mid pipes to the stock exhaust, one would not slide into each other, you'd have to get special clamps to connect the two pipes together, my experience with them is they always end up leaking. |
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#160 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 3,041
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Many of us have used the 60606 and sleeve clamped it to the stock NPP exhaust with very satisfying results- and it's all DIY.
Get a pair of these clamps- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-1176 and cut your NPP with 8" of pipe left on measuring from the body of the muffler. You don't have to remove the NPP from the car and it works like a charm! Plenty loud in Track mode and quiet enuff not to wake the neighbors in Stealth. |
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#161 |
![]() Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 200
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Yep. Borla 60606 with the 1176 clamps. Perfect clean fit. Though you can’t see it with it being under the car, it’s not some hack job of cutting the secondaries out. Also no need to worry about ensuring if the weld is all the way around so a code isn’t thrown... To me, worth every penny.
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#162 |
![]() Drives: Summit White ZL1 A10 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 10
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Has there been an official release of the bolt in secondary cat delete? I was poking around the website and found part number 60663. The description indicates it is a 2.75 pipe but does not indicate if it will direct connect to factory pipe without welding. I am also very interested in this question. Thanks everyone!
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2010 Toyota FJ Trail Teams Edition (modded); 2017 zL1 A10 (2010 Camaro Sold); sold 2010 Yamaha VMax
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#163 | |
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The 60663 is essentially just the forward one third section of the 60609 & 60606 that we're talking about. It's will delete your secondary cat and on the forward (cat) side, one side bolts up while the other slides into the stock exhaust and clamps into place. The back side is the same diameter as the stock exhaust so you'd either need to weld or buy the sleeve clamps that they mentioned above here.
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#164 |
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Daily Driven 1LE
Drives: 2018 1SS 1LE Join Date: May 2018
Location: Fort Knox, KY
Posts: 293
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Everyone keeps saying the Borla 60606 bolts to the back of the primary cats. But looking at the picture of 60606 one side uses a clamp and the other has a flange. Is this indeed correct?
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2018 1SS 1LE
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#165 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Crush ZLE M6 | 2000 Corvette FRC Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cencal
Posts: 1,659
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#166 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: US
Posts: 3,794
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Quote:
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#167 | |
![]() Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE - HBM, PDR Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Rescue, CA
Posts: 324
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Quote:
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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JRE Tuned (HPTuners) | 15% OD (9.17" crank pulley) | TVS2300 Maggie Heartbeat Supercharger - 14 psi | E-50 (DSX Flex Fuel kit) | JMS FuelMax Fuel Pump Booster | LPE Big Bore High Volume DI fuel pump | LPE High Flow DI fuel injectors | LT5 95mm TB | RotoFab CAI | AEM X-Series OBD2 wide band gauge | Elite Engineering E2-X catch can | Borla S-type NPP Cat-Back 3" exhaust | Forgeline GTD1 5-lug Satin Graphite | SunTek wrap | C-Quartz Finest Reserve ceramic coated
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#168 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 SS Convertible Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: California
Posts: 1,108
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I am looking at adding Kooks LT with cats and doing a secondary cat delete.
Not too worried about cutting stock exhaust - figure I can always re-weld or use slip connectors to go back to stock in the future. Was thinking I would just have a good fab exhaust shop add a section of 3" pipe from the kooks cat output and tie into the stock axle back somewhere past where the 2nd cats reside. I have a convertible so wanted to keep stock axle back because many of the stock systems don't clear the added bracing on the vert chassis, plus not looking to make it too loud - I figure LT's without the second cats and stock mufflers will give me a nice exhaust tone without any drone or too much rasp and bump the power a bit - compared to doing just an axle back which is no performance gain essentially. Is it worth buying that Borla kit? not sure that would tie directly into the cat output pipe of the Kooks set-up anyway, so thinking no. Thoughts? |
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