[radz28]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I bought a Milwaukee 1/4” M12 ratchet this year for this task specifically and I have to say it’s life changing lol. I used to just manually ratchet all those little fasteners off and then wonder if I was developing carpal tunnel. The 1/4” Milwaukee ratchet made the job SO much faster.

WORD. Anything electric is so helpful, especially for tedious little stuff like this. It saves my wrists from a lot of unnecessary wear.

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Hell yeah, same here... except I have the much nicer looking, more durable, more ergonomic, faster, cooler.... DEWALT version

BOOOOOOO!!! j/k

Originally Posted by airtroop01

Great thread...

I'll add a few notes on my end:
FI Interchiller helped a lot with the street/highway/canyon/40-roll MAT temps. I've got a stage 2 and after some initial installation headaches, the intercooler fluid temps will get to single digit numbers leaving MAT generally 15* less than ambient on a hot day while in competition mode and just about equal with ambient while the cabin is blowing cool air. Road course use... the only benefit here is helping the car to cool down in the pits. I've had to make sure I retained a large heat exchanger to last at the duration and load that a full course puts on these cars while pushing it for 20-30m straight. I've got a 2650 as well as a fender tank and a larger HE pushing only 15.5psi

I ended up divorcing the oil system from the factory coolant albeit different than the GMS kit and replacing the aux heat exchanger. Never had a problem on the street, but on the road course I was seeing temps ~290* and the ECU was not happy as it tried to save things. With the separate system, the result was about a 30* lower temp on the track. I added back in an oil thermostat at 205* and it initially was keeping things at temp... but lately I've noted that the system is having a hard time getting up to temp unless I'm on track, so something I've got to look at there. New mystery.

Engine coolant -- I got a Cold Case radiator and a 160* thermostat. On the street, I've never had an issue with temps. On the road course, I was blowing over and hitting above 260* which sucked. I've managed to find that drilling a few 1/8" holes in the thermostat was useful in controlling any flash temps that would otherwise kill the thermostat. On street right now my ECTs are right at 155*-165* on a 100* day. Maybe it creeps to 175* in traffic but drops with any motion. On the road course, 85* day (likely hotter on the track) WOT/Brake/Turn/WOT for 20m and I saw temps around 230*-ish. Success compared to the number of times the car complained about ECT temps and the ECU stepped in with pulling power. I've tried every thermostat out there Katech, MotoRad, Lingenfelter, stock, etc. The only thing to help is the old school hot rodder trick of drilling the holes (4 holes seems to be the sweet spot - leveraging the top weep hole as 1 and drilling 3 more). Takes a little bit longer to warm up but not too bad. I'd like to get a beefed up aux radiator to help the thermal shedding capability here.

New Banks gauges are awesome! The alert features are GOLD esp when you're attention is paying attention to the apex, other cars on the track, braking points.. to be able to get your attention. The data logging also GOLD so everything I've mentioned is not anecdotal - I've pulled the data, plotted it, watched the way ECTs and MATs go from linear to exponential growth curves when at the limit.

Scott - airtroop01 is one of the guys I've mentioned in our conversations. Check out his threads, as there's some good information in them, too.