[oldman]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Congrats you are one of the lucky ones, you should play lotto

You and I think the same thing. I hear this all the time, my combo runs xyz so it is perfect. I always say my target is 50% chance to go 100K miles or 10 years on my daily driver. The other 50% well stuff happens, my first build the cam with .660 lift ate the lifter and all the lobes showed wear that I believe was valve float related (same as the stock seat failure). Lucky the engine was OK and now 5 years later the engine is still going,

In Texas where E85 was local, I was completely happy with a 9 to 11 PSI setup, in Hawaii I'm on 92 and I have pulleyed down to 6 PSI and my DI build is way overkill and I've dumbed it down to (big bore, LT4 injectors and cam lobe). I may try octane booster, there are guys in Hawaii that swear by the stuff and since I'm already paying 5.25 a gallon what is $20 more for the booster. I only fill gas once a month. I tossed around the meth, but there have been a couple meth failures in my local cloud, some self induced (the systems are complicated), some system complication, some maintenance and some / most component failure. So it comes down to this, is the extra 100 HP that I could get with meth going to compromise my ability to get 10 years or 100K miles? I think it does, say to my mind it is an added 20% failure rate over that duration, add in 10% additional failure of the long block itself due to higher HP levels, I'd pass. I would note that is a personal preference and I just don't see the performance vs dependability working out (price irrelevant). I do view a dual injection setup as doable but think the added complexity would add 10% to a 10 year failure rate (probably better have a shop do it).

To the OP, I personally think that it is not possible to build a street LT1 that can take upto 1500 HP. I give you an example, does your engine have an aftermarket forged or billet crank? That would answer the question is the engine "good for" even 800 engine HP over the long run. Me personally if I had to do it all again I'd would have definitely have gone for an aftermarket crank. GM did a bunch of crank and bearing modes from 455 HP to 650 HP, I find it ironic that people are claiming the LT1 crank is good enough for 800 HP engine, much less "1500" HP.. it ain't. Same goes for the lifters, I had a LS7 lifter failure on an .660 lift cam, I'm sure I'm not the only one, I fought the LS1 valvetrain failure wars in the 90s and should have learned then... but no modern oils and technology, OK well mine failed. I have a Cam Motion mild lift cam now sub .600 lift and Jonston lifers and Manley valves. Engine makes about the same HP, it just cost a whole lot more money. I'm pretty sure you have a standard intake valves and LS7 lifters to boot. So if reliability is your goal, I'd be looking into real lifters, change out your valve springs and make sure you have the stage II if not the race intercooler (you don't list it), and yes I'd go for a D1x but keep the same boost as I think the D1x just feels better and seems to run cooler (I had a P1sc before). So that would be a .25 or larger pulley.

Long story short, if you don't have E85, you need to get it cool and that should be the race intercooler (edit looks like the current setup is an air /water unit), the more efficient D1x that you need to turn SLOWER unless you have E85 pump. DI does not suck, it is great, but it is costly, done correctly it is 100% reliable and you may try octane booster if you want to up the boost a little. Note I never had the basic HO intercooler, I was in Texas so stage II or race would be the only two I'd consider, in Hawaii stage II is actually OK, but I probably will upgrade to the race one just for the "look".