[oldman]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

He can't hit his goals with a AFM cam.

I think he can get or get very close to 500 WHP FBO-(LT) + cam. SuperChevy got 63 WHP with cam and air filter, that is WAY more than any LT dyno gain. His other goal, the topic of the tread is a cam with lope that is drivable. So for grins cam + FBO - LT yeilds 480 WHP... I think per his once in a while roadrace and he wants good driving characteristics.. would be JUST FINE and he "would be happy with".

Originally Posted by KingLT1

No. That was for the OP to consider before he goes down the rabbit hole with modding his car. Pretty obvious I thought.

Like I said, you suggest that he buy a new car cause he is interested in a cam change.

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Ok so here you are preaching this AFM cam when nobody runs them for a good reason.

I count no less than 6 times that this is probably not optimal and noted at LEAST TWICE that Texas Speed no longer markets their AFM cam. Preaching what? It ain't like I'm making money selling.

This is the internet, given what he wants, I'm giving him the best advice that I can, minimum or stock valve springs on the smaller cams and probably the BTR Lt1 beehive probably would work. Do I know? Heck no. I will note that GM is committed to AFM and even the LT2 with longer lift and duration retains AFM. To my mind the stock cam is very small and their must be alternatives. Musing on the ability to retain AFM is not "preaching". I think I well laid out what I would do, I think I clearly stated that Texas Speed used to market an AFM cam and they no longer do. Same same for Ligenfelter AFAIK.

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Factory AFM lifters are worse then LS7. You had a failure with LS7 lifters with your build but you are suggesting a AFM cam?

I was shy going into an above .600 lift cam. I was going to pull the motor anyway and thought I could "get by" The lifter failed within 1000 miles of when the engine was coming out. Just luck of the draw. But this is apples and oranges. A LS7 lifter failure on a much steeper ramp rate, much higher lift application than it was designed, more RPM to boot, is not the same as an AFM cam with stock or near stock valve springs, with close to stock lift, with stock or close to stock fuel cut.



Already noted that the general rule of thumb is to pull the heads to port and add real cam. Don't know why you are skipping over this. Not like I sleep with my AFM lifters

Originally Posted by KingLT1

2 guys just posted builds that barely made 500whp with headers, one had stage 3 cam, the other had heads and made 520whp. A AFM cam only setup on stock exhaust wouldn't make more then 470whp. It would be lucky to make the power of a FBO car.

Seems you like to state things in the definitive. The guy is asking about a cam with a lope that is easy to drive in a once in a while roadrace car. Your racing dynos...

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I didn't under cut a anything, the OP said 530whp.

I've already posted his actual quote and he said he would be happy with 500 to 530WHP, I'm pointing out your insistence on 530 undercuts your shaky case that FBO-header + cam can't make the 500 WHP. As already stated big deal if it does not. It does make two goals: lope and easy driving. Clearly GM went to a bigger AFM cam on the LT2. Which um actually does road race. Clearly 63 WHP gain in SuperChevy would add dramatically to his three goals: increase in HP, lope, and easy to drive. Already noted that AFM cams will run into issues at some point with RPM and / or stiff valve springs.

Originally Posted by KingLT1

The Maggie is a far better solution then a AFM cam that is FACT.

As noted, the guy wants a bolt in cam for lope that can drive, probably expects too much HP, but the better solution is put a PDB on it. Here is his direct quote:

"Just a light NA build" don't see where an expensive heavy heat injector comes into play. I would assume he would be willing to give up a few HP on his complete guestimate as long as the cam was drivable and had a nice sound.


The added weight, expense ($7000 up not including labor), and heat injection does nothing for his other goals. I already said it is quite possible, DIY to cam this engine for $430 on the smaller cams, and $750 on the larger cams.

As an aside, as I mentioned, it is quite possible to spec a blower friendly AFM cam with factory lift, more duration and a 3x% cam lobe for sub $500. Which should yield factory like dependability.

Originally Posted by KingLT1

7 psi is barely working a 2300 so heat wouldn't be any issue. The added weight could be mitigated elsewhere.

The tread is about a $430 cam what don't you get... now we are into the back seat delete, lithium ion battery, feather weight rims, leave the old lady at home cause you want to suggest spending upwards of $7000 which does NOTHING for the goal of having a streetable cam with a little lope.

Originally Posted by KingLT1

That is the only reason why I agreed with another member that suggested it first. If the OP was willing to approach the NA build correctly then I wouldn't of mentioned a blower. Anybody that thinks rationally can see my POV on this.

I did not know there was a correct way. I'll go one step further and say it is completely ludicrous to say an AFM cam that is "larger" can't yield factor-like dependability as GM just released a bigger AFM cam for the LT2. Does the current selection of aftermarket AFM do that? Dunno. I know of nobody that has one, and what spring, and RPM would all contribute to longevity. As stated a stock lift AFM cam with more duration and a bigger fuel lobe would indeed be helpful on many builds, I would admit is mainly for the fuel lobe.

IMO, see the opinion, because I, nor you have an engine reliability lab running in the back yard, think a reasonable AFM cam, with reasonable valve springs, with reasonable RPM would be far more long-lived then vendor recommended "correct NA built" of .635 up lift, quick ramp, super-stiff twin springs, NO MATTER WHAT LIFTER is put into the engine. Will a AFM cam make the same power as a regular cam? nope. Given sub .600 lift would a regular cam with real lifters probably last a whole lot longer? Yep probably so (you and I are copasetic on this point). Will a mild AFM cam and mild or stock springs out last .63x, fast ramp cam NO MATTER WHAT LIFTER is used? IMO it would by a significant margin.

Do I think there is such a thing as the "correct way to build NA?" nope. I think it is completely legitimate and in fact fun, this is a hobby, after all, to spec a cam that can perform well and have longevity and be fun to drive and have lope. Not this near-constant should have gone blower yarn. Outside of the LT1, I would assume there are lots of truck owners that are putting AFM compatible cams into their rides. I'm not a trucker nor hang out on the trucker forums. So who knows maybe these AFM cams are yielding reasonable usage before failure. I don't know, I don't think you know either.

Does bolt a PDB blower belong on a cam thread, probably not.