You left out, that your driveshaft and / or axle shafts will fail due to torque load (unless you have a 1le), even then the TR6060 is rated at low 500s ft / lbs. The ample torque needs DR and a prep track to put the torque load to the ground. On 220 wear summer tires, the torque requires you to back out of it. One only has to look at the stock Zl1 times on a prep track to understand that on normal tires and the average street it is actually very hard to go high 11s. Hench GM has less gear on the ZL1.
I didn't leave anything out the OP has a 1LE which has a suspension drive train similar to a ZL1. TR6060 has handled 1000whp+ in many builds over the years. But that is a Moot point with your 220 tire wear stipulation. You won't break anything with 220 wear tires anyhow....even if it was a SS.
I will agree with
Um I think the Zl1 is a whole lot more than a supercharger, like a factory-engineered ediff and adjustable dampers, forged rims and selected tires.. etc. Vs tossing a 70+ lbs blower on the front and on top of the engine on a stock SS or 1le. Clearly a completely different scenario. Add in my primary point is heat injection and the Zl1 has a lower compression forged engine to deal with the heat load. I believe the new base V8 has less cooling too (not sure as I have a 2016). So there are weight and heat load issues that need to be mitigated. GM did that with the Zl1, we don't have an example of a LT1 based Z/28 and what that would do. Gut feeling especially for the autoX, the blower adds zero or even negative. I'd let road racers comment from here. To me say the Magi is $5300, need tune, I do my own labor so $5700 all in. I can get a LOT of autoX and / or road race bang for the $$$$, for $5700, without the added weight or heat load that should be mitigated. Actually I just realize this was a strawman argument, LOL, nobody puts a blower on a SS or 1le to roadrace or autoX, given a limited budget.
Refer to first reply, Op has a 1LE. Aside from that anybody looking to road course a SS is going to do the supporting mods to make the car handle better...SS really only needs wider wheels and tires and sway bars. It would need it anyway NA or FI so your point is kind of Moot at best on this one.
On the 1st to 2nd shift the OP has a M6 the engine never sees below 5000 RPM, all the smaller PD fall off boost at this level so there ain't all that much area under the curve. I'm sure there are many normal street driving times that a PD is a pleasure to drive, there are many times that a blast through the gears on a M6 and with a high compression V8 and cam that is a pleasure too. They are different driving experiences and while I would enjoy a LT4 conversion on my DD, I think I enjoy the 7200 RPM M6 row through the gears which you just don't get with the stock cam. So each offers a driving experience and on a DD the PD is probably going to be used more. As my area gets built-in I'm able to use the cam less... need to move to Waco. I will add the new heavier and more expensive PD carry boost higher into the 5000 to 6600 RPM range or just buy a Centri that produces power in the 5000 to 6600 RPM range that can be applied to the street with 220 wear street tires.
Yea with a cam, valvetrain, and IM or Centri upgrade. Stock M6 car, the engine dips below 5k rpm on the shift. You don't live above 5k rpm on a road course car anyway. You need strong mid range for a road course car.
So yep a small PD has great WOT torque and you maybe able to workout scenarios in your head where you can use WOT torque on the street between 3000 and 5000 RPM. But a NA cam package has a great pull and sound to 6800 on stock engine and 7200+ on build engine that adds a whole lot of fun in many many situations. They are different driving experience so if I drinking Starbucks on my M6 and don't want to downshift, the PD is going to give me the torque I need to do things. But if I like the lay slowly on the throttle thru first cause even STOCK the M6 is traction limited, bang into 2nd, lay into the throttle bang into 3rd with a 7200 high compression v8, um no your PD can't deliver that on the stock long block, I will say that the bigger maggi might be able to do it as it holds boost to a much higher RPM. So they are different. I don't have a PD or auto so maybe that is the cat's meow for many or most people. I have a M6 and if given a choice I'd take a cam over boost period. My first blower cam as a Pray designed package with cam, heads, tune, so I never did a Centri on stock long block, nor the new 2650. I'm sure any FI on the stock long block is great but at least for the 2300 mentioned nor the LT4 offer the take notice idle and the thrill of 7000+ shifts. They are different driving experience period.
For the OP, he wouldn't want a size cam that will run 7200+ for a road course car. I am not sure where you get this idea that the 2300 doesn't carry power and are all torque...even the LT4 carries power fine, it's just flat and not linear. Why are all the factory flagship hot rods using PD superchargers instead of Centri's if they are the cats meow?
Once again as I've been saying for a while now the Centri offers to my mind a better thru the gear experience, I base it on a M6, the new 2650 probably offers the same experience but that is 3 years after the Centri's offer. I don't hang out on the ZL1 forum but I'm sure there are few PD 1.7 to 2650 upgrades that are very happy with the new found top-end torque and power on a near stock longblock / exhaust etc. So if it were me, I'd probably not recommend a 2300 or 1.7 unless it was REALLY cheap and /or you just like to drink coffee on a M6. The initial 2650 dynos are that impressive, it is holding boost longer even on stock size cams. I would predict there will be many more 1.7 and 2300 second hand as people experience what the D1x Centri is already providing, boost at the top end where it is actually used 5000 to 7000+. Same area where the cam and heads guys were too.
Road Course cars need a strong mid-range. They don't live above 5000rpm.
This is the number one reason for me, after all that is said and done to go with a supercharger. You can have all the power that you want and literally have a stock exhaust. It is very hard for me to describe how LOUD a large cam, LT, no-cat car is even with the stock muffler and STUPID loud with many of these aftermarket 3" systems. STUPID loud.
I did not try large cam, stock headers, CA deletes, Bolra 60608 dual resonator in the center, I'm sure it is down 30 to 40 HP over the LT NA, but it might be usable as a DD.
This is untrue. Here I have direct experience, from FBO to FBO + built engine. The car sounds bad action at idle, but in gear, it sounds and drives and responds like stock. This is a large high compression V8, it responds well to cam, heads, headers... it just does. I had a LS1 and this is a completely different engine. Stage 1 cams BTW it is hard to tell at idle. So drives like stock, but stock does not pull to 7200 RPM.
I have had a couple high compression heads/cam cars and it is very true. My LS1 pulled to 7200rpm all day and it drove really well but not stock.
From your lips to god's ear. I too lived over the LS1 valvetrain failure. I said that to Pray on this board 3 years ago. You would think I would learn
For the most part, 11.5 CR will carry most cams we are talking about, car drives fine NA, more than fine, spanking fun. Others here too have 11.5 with some pretty big cams. Stage 2+ and bigger I agree with you and 12.2 and / or a stroker would help out. So from my experience, this engine can take a stage II and perform well.
I agree but With the availability of cheap high octane fuel(E85), I would never do a NA build and not raise compression.
True dat
I believe Pray went 10.1 with his ported factory heads, IM, TB.
He also had a bolt-on only car go bottom 10's... Just because the Stock IM isn't optimal for a heads/cam car doesn't mean you can not run a decent time. I believe he has taken the same setup into the 9's with a hi-ram.
true dat
I can install a cam into my car AFM with a spec single spring in one day and cost about $550 all in. Say the small compcam above. The only issue is what beehive to run and an BTR LS6 spring 100lbs at 1.8 and 285 lbs at 1.240 or .560 lift ($70) may work That is what the hobby is all about. Now you are talking trading in the car. :confused0068
Great...but you are not going to come anywhere close to 530whp on stock exhaust with that setup. That lingenfelter cam you linked made 503whp with ported heads and catless headers. I contacted them about their heads cam package. That is why I agreed with getting a Maggie....the Maggie would hit his power goals with no other mods. With his limitations, he won't get there NA.
I never said anything about trading in my car. 