[TMS]

Originally Posted by 1LE Red Dragon

So a couple of questions regarding this method.

1. You can easily get the torch to the bolt head to heat up properly? (assume this is yes, based on the fact it worked.

2. Once you get the bolt out, you have room to seat the puller in properly with the limited space with the fan still in place???

3. Assuming 2 is correct. All the other work with the AC belt, and regular drive belt can be done easily with the limited working space?

4. Lastly, when torquing the bolt back to factory specs. Do you do the same. Put car in 4th gear with the E-brake on, and torque back to the factory specs using a torque wrench and 140 degrees after?

1. Yes. I heated more of the bolt flange (round and round) not the head directly. It won't need a lot of heat. Don't over do it. You can always go back with more heat.

2. Doubtful with the fan installed. But I don't know for sure as my fan assembly was removed.

3. See #2.

4. Caution - The OEM bolt is a torque to yield (TTY), I believe. It's a one and done. If you are going to use the factory style bolt then purchase a new one and torque to spec as per GM guidelines. However, I used an ARP crank bolt and followed torque instructions on the ATI super Damper.