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Changing Brake Line Gotchas?
I had some credit at Phastek and decided to get some upgraded RST Stainless Steel Brake Lines for my 2SS (non-1LE), I figured it would be the perfect time to put them on since I was going to replace my brake fluid with Castrol SRF.
Any gotchas on changing the brake lines and/or bleeding the brakes/changing fluid? I've done brake fluid replacements on others car just not this one. Any advice or insight would be appreciated. Thanks! |
Never done it myself but will soon, here is what my friend told me to do.
"Brake lines very easy, just do the lines in the correct order to avoid running the brake fluid too low. Detach from caliper and tuck the stock line high enough that it doesn't drip, install new line on caliper side, then take off old line from body side and install new line. Top off brake fluid right away if needed. Just trying to minimize risk of running air into ABS pump" |
when i had mine installed the shop said new camaro was a bitch to do lol just to do it like 4 times and something about the master cylinder was tricky to get all of the old fluid out
now i just do a drain and refill every year so its not as bad ive been told |
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No worries. Line replacement and bleeding is easy. If you don't already have something, I recommend a bleeding tool such as Motive. I use the dry method since I bleed and change fluid a lot for track use. There's some step by steps on here somewhere as well.
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This is the check-valve bleeder I bought on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have no problem returning it or getting something else if there is something better or more appropriate... Thank you for everyone who has provided input and suggestions, it is very much appreciated! I always try to help where I can and I appreciate the help when needed or requested, thank you! |
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The Motive pressure bleeder is one of the best tools I bought. Easy one man bleeding. But don't put the fluid in the Motive. Just keep adding to the reservoir. Don't let it run dry. Keep checking the level.
You may need to do an ABS solenoid bleed procedure. There are some scan tools on Amazon that can do this. |
^ yep, these guys answered and agree with both. OP, unfamiliar with the check valve bleeder you linked. It may work fine, but I've never used one myself so can't say. I used the Motive bleeder (dry) since I bleed a lot for track reasons.
The thread linked below is pretty detailed, albeit, I have never reviewed it step-step. Note the change in order by Carguy55. https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...ighlight=brake It must be age, as now I am remembering more. Use a torque wrench on the bleeders. https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=614932 |
When I did my lines I didn't realize the ABS pump might need a scan tool to bleed, but using the Motive pressure bleeder, it went fine. I was doing some other work so I just let it ALL drain out, and still had no issues. I wouldn't do it that way again though.
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Get a set of these flare nut wrenches: https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-5...Set/1000600333
I didn't worry too much about torque; I simply set the wrench back to its starting position and called it good. |
My experience was to attach it to the steel line before you attach it to the caliper. I found it can be a pain to get the threads lined up if the line is not loose. Once attached to the frame then let some some fluid drip out and attach to the caliper. When I remove the OEM line from the caliper I use a piece of inter tube tire rubber and a small clap to keep the line from leak fluid while I remove it from the steel line. I use the Motive bleeder and have never had an issue but I have heard of people having issues with the antilock and having to go through the GM bleed procedure with a scan tool.
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